JeepcoMJ

correct. you need a 21 spline np231 or np242 with a long input shaft. they are out there, and not that hard to find. your transmission is a torqueflite 904 (TF904 or TH904). you are limited to 86+ 2.5 or 2.8 liter comanches, or an 86 or 88.5+ cherokee 2.5 or 2.8l, or any 2.5l jeep wrangler YJ. you CANNOT use an 84-85 cherokee TF904 without machine work. they were carburated, and thus don't have a boss machined to mount the crankshaft position sensor on the bellhousing. keep in mind that torque converters also changed with the years, respectively, so do your research on part numbers to verify that the year of transmission you get has the same torque converter. the shift points between all of them are the same, but the bolt locations are different and therefore if you get the incorrect torque converter, it will not bolt to your flex plate. That said, you can keep your torque converter and use it with the "new" transmission. None of this is a big deal...you're not looking for a needle in a haystack, so don't sweat it. I will advise you that if you do do a 3.4 conversion and decide to do the fuel injected upgrade, make sure that you get a 3.4 and the wiring for it from a 91-95 camaro or firebird that came equipped with a 5 speed. your transmission is shifted mechanically, with no electronic controller...you don't want to deal with the hassle of making a 3.4 auto ECU think it still has it's stock auto trans.

Sorry about the confusion. I have the NEW FRAM made filter. What's the problem with these? Bear in mind I have a Chevy 2.8 V6, though. the filter element is junk, it doesn't filter. the backflow preventer (check valve) is junk...it doesn't work. the point of the check valve is to keep oil in the top end between startups. so, since this doesn't work, rather than having an un-lubricated startup on only cold starts, you have un-lubricated startups on EVERY start. end result, bad lifters, bad cam, bad valves.

Yes, I was. Yeah, I expect that the tires may have some dry rot and the battery won't live five years, but this was a NEW Cherokee Limited. I checked it over. It had not been driven. All window stickers were still in place. It is definitely worth $22,000. no, it is NOT worth 22,000. it's a tin can that you're giving to a person who doesn't have driving experience. it's 10 years old. it's never been driven. tires are gonna be junk, battery junk, all fluids junk, and quite possibly will have issues with the trans etc. from not being lubricated for all of 10 years. so, I think you're nuts as far as that goes. as far as your question...did they cash the check? you may have had a sales contract, but unless they cashed the check, you didn't have a binding contract.

Dr. Pepper is an independently owned corporation...although it has been tied with coke.

I've been towing my tow dolly for a long time. 10-12 jeeps I'd guess. not a fan. looking at trading my dolly for a 17 foot dual axle car trailer. then looking at selling my trail rig and buying an older fullsize for towing.

:-/ I work for coke.

topic has been covered easily 10 times. no. no,no,no.

I'll trade. gotta grab it from home this weekend, I'll find pics.

not a turn on. I hope I never meet anyone like that...that's nasty (and no, I'm not being sarcastic)

get a lawyer, and sue them.

sadly, with a tear in my eye, I looked at the 35" tires and wished them well this sunday when they go to their new home.

yep. my dad used to have one.

there was one of those trailers sitting @ a house my parents bought...it got scrapped. now that I know what it's for, and I'm old enough to know, I kinda wish we'd kept it.

make sure you don't get an auto, or hopefully by then allison transmissions will be standard.

what switch is bad? the actual stalk, or the switch inside? do you have intermittent wipers? if so, did you remove the wiper delay module and then test them?

that is a sweet idea for a canvas top...I'm going to have to copy you :D

ick. no bueno. why?

umm. WHY? the internal slave requires you to remove the transmission to replace the slave every time it goes bad. what engine/trans/transfercase options?

I see jeep rims...where is the rest of it? in all seriousness, though..they look terrible. maybe with the proper height tires, they'd look OK.

thanks for that info danish! that's now saved in my tech files :D

Do we need to get the Great Lakes Chapter President goblazers6 to settle this situation? :brows: hahaha. that statement makes me laugh almost as hard as when my boss tells me he's in charge...

oooh burn

LKQ junkyard in rockford, IL is a u-pull-it type junkyard, and the trans is $90 set price. there's a lower miles early 90's 4.0/auto in the hard there at least last time I was there.

alright. let's set this straight. there are quite a few threads on this, so search and you'll find easy answers. that said, to convert COMPLETELY to H.O., you need EVERY single part from the dash forward that is electronic or mechanical. if you are just retrofitting an H.O. motor to run off renix, you use every renix part (flywheel, distributor, sensors, etc.), but you'll use the high output intake and exhaust manifold, and have to retrofit the throttle position sensor to work.

97+ is out the door unless you want to eliminate half the 97+ harness, use all the 97+ heaterbox and radio wiring (plus heater box itself), and do custom gauges and custom wiring to keep your 3.4 running. I have to do all that to make the 86 that I have work...but I put a 3800 v6 in it (not bolt in). to do the 3.4 swap, you use all the manifolds and other bolt-ons from the 2.8l to keep it carb'd (not advised), or you use just the exhaust manifolds and oil pan from the 2.8, and piggy back the 3.4 EFI harness to your factory harness with a 4.0 fuel pump in your gas tank.