JeepcoMJ

Whatever you say, young'un. Your first post took about the same tone about all the posts previous to yours, and they made sense, too. So before you tell someone to disregard everything everybody else has said in trying to help, try replacing the arrogance with a little humility. I base my statements on the fact that I have worked on, repaired, and stripped more comanches than most. It is a good thing to check each and EVERY single possible thing before you arrive at a conclusion. He now has the information to do so. So, maybe I'm a bit arrogant...oh well. every statement prior involves assumptions, and are not based on proper diagnosis.

not worried about cost on the parts...injection pump, turbo, wastegate, wastegate solenoid, and fuel shut off solenoid are all @ my house waiting. ordering a new PMD. I'm just gonna replace all of it since all of this is known good and low miles.

it runs for 20 seconds, then won't start for awhile afterwards. I'm not 100% positive what exact symptoms are...I don't even have it here to work on, and this is all what's related to me thus far.

still doesn't explain why it worked, and now it doesn't. anyone who KNOWS these engines?

some people are into that. :eek: I'd like a dropped, built 2wd mj to tool around with.

actually, all of what I said makes sense. NOT checking things that actually could be bad doesn't make sense. no, the ballast resistor is probably not the cause...but he needs to cover his bases.

few hundredish, and yes a 2,500 mile break-in period with oil change @ 500 miles, then @ 1500, then 2500. and if you wish to switch to synthetic, you start with dino lube, then switch to mixed for the next few oil changes, then full synthetic.

eh. do what I said before you take it apart, then if you *need* to, take it apart. but you want EVERYTHING completely apart and cleaned, and at that point you'd be nuts to put it back together without putting new bearings, rings, and seals in it.

correct, the front end just needed aligned. we didn't have much time to assess anything but steering after we dropped it...he had a 5hr drive home lol. BUT basically it was "bolt-in". you WILL have rear driveshaft length issues, unless your shaft was too short from the get-go. 3.5" lift results in the shaft almost pulling out...so a drop from that height will result in it shoving into your tailshaft housing

they need to be updated.

yeah. well, just reset mine...no dice, won't charge. this turns me off to them, at least. only reason I'd buy one is that it's used, and it's cheap, and the same model...so that if the screen cracks/breaks, I've got a spare screen for it.

I do like having G.W. Bush tell me where to go.... "you have reached your destification". mine does that freeze-up and reboot issue.

I agree 100% what a @#$%tard

first hand experience...the new RC arms are just not right. what is happening is the lower shock mounts are CONTACTING the LCA's, preventing any further twist. in the end, with mine, I plasma cut some of the lower shock mounts out, and made the uppers longer than they were "supposed" to be.

I've had nothing but problems with my tomtom. it freezes then takes around 20 min. to be OK. last thursday it froze and now it won't charge. that's with constant software and map updates done religiously. I bought another one halfway through this one's life span...it also began freezing within a day. both were the widescreen ones, whatever model those are. I only ever had one problem with my old garmin...and that's that I was careless and tossed it in the van, and it broke the reciever so it wouldn't work. my opinion, stay away from tomtom JUNK. not only is it garbage, but the name is redundant

ports only line up properly one way, IIRC.

1996 chevy suburban 6.5L turbo. turn the key, start it...it runs. for 20 seconds. then it dies. mind you, this is a COLD start. it has shown zero signs of PMD issues so far...never just died randomly and needed to cool down. the turbo is seized. it hasn't been able to spool since the owner bought it 3 months ago. told him not to drive it without replacing the turbo...he ignored me. oil pressure is acceptable. I haven't been able to get it to my place to look at it yet, so I haven't been able to test if it's even getting decent fuel pressure. any suggestions? also, will a 2001 gmc 3500 6.5's turbo work in this '96? I'd assume I need a wastegate and new oil lines as well as to check if the lines currently there are plugged...

I agree with pete. take the socket and breaker bar to the bolt on the harmonic balancer (big pully on the crankshaft on front of motor) and try and move it by hand with the plugs out. starter or battery cables could be the only problem next point....if you're going to clean an engine, you MUST do a complete 100% teardown and THEN clean it. I've lived and learned that...end result, some broken down crap got in a rod bearing. if you don't tear it down completely, something will stay in there.

Ok well I shall try that. Uhm how bout a definition of hydrolocking? fluid in cylinder compressed equals kaboom and breaking $#!&.

oh, side note. once it's unseized, turn it over with the plugs out for awhile. disconnect the fuel pump and crank it. this will remove any chance of hydrolocking it.

alright, humour me here. remove spark plugs try looking in with flashlight. if you can easily see that it's garbage, replace. if it looks OK, spray the crap out of the cylinders (by spraying through the spark plug holes) with PB blaster. DO NOT use oil or water or anything but PB blaster. do that several days in a row, leaving the plugs out. then put the truck in neutral with the tires blocked, grab a 19mm socket, and try turning the crankshaft with a breaker bar on the harmonic balancer. this WILL overtighten your harmonic balancer, but it shouldn't break the bolt off. just work it several days spraying it with pb blaster and trying to move it via the breaker bar. I've had success with this method. do this with the engine in the truck...it's easier with it mounted.

it's normal.

it could be unseized, but if it seized, the damage is done. don't scrap out the truck if it's in halfway decent shape. put another motor in...they're cheap anyways.

those rims will bolt on to a comanche...

they lied...they probably didn't put the right speedo gear in