JeepcoMJ

they're not. they don't have all the little round head rivets in them

they're not the same on xj's...it's probably the limited or whatever wheels that don't have all the simulated beadlock crap around the edge. I vote that they're good scrap value.

yeah...... we do comanches on the forum, which is why the joke probably didn't take off.

didn't read through all of this, but... as long as your rear axle is a non c-clip rear axle, alot of brake parts are interchangeable. there were, however, two different width brake drums...and thus pads, too. you can only reuse your brakes if they are the same. if you're not lifting it approx. 3.5", you will need a new rear driveshaft, or to have yours shortened 1". the pinion is 1" longer on the dana 44 than on the dana 35.

It's a "6" for todays date so I know how old they are in the fridge. Acutally free range eggs that are made from leafy greens are much lower in LDL and higher in HDL. Plus, they taste delicious. that's a good way to keep them dated. I just eat all of the eggs I get daily. fried egg sammich. mmm.

it looks like a chicken egg. and thus, it looks like a normal everyday thing that no one really cares about. the only oddity is that there is a G on several eggs, which I assume you put there. and unless the egg was fertalized and partly incubated, then the answer is yes...I would eat it.

no, on top of SUA/SOA differences, the springs are also different length.

from a junkyard or someone's parts truck.

yup. starter relay or the solenoid on the starter. or bad battery cables/corroded connections.

starter relay by the battery. or new starter. does it click or anything when you turn the key?

probably...but you know me.

God has spoken. :rotfl2: lol. I figured the caps lock would get the point across. you know, probably a good idea to take information from those of us that have actually dealt with dana 44's in the MJ's, rather than people who haven't and are basing their information off of wrong information that their informants gave them.

NO CRUSH SLEEVE.

check for warped/stretched ubolts. check your pinion bearing as well. grab the yoke on the diff and shake...any play any direction, means it's bad.

check your ubolts.

still noises? 2wd or 4wd? how did you try pulling the stump?

to check your wheel bearings, lift the front end up, grab the top of your wheels, and shake. if your wheels move, your bearings or ball joints are garbage. bad ujoints can cause death wobble. if your steering isn't aligned that can cause death wobble. if your control arm bushings are bad, that could cause death wobble. how much lift do you have in front? using what components?...you say spacers, but what height are they, and what height are the springs? remember, drop pitman arms ONLY work directly in conjunction with track bar drop brackets of the same quantity of drop...if you're changing your steering, you must change your trackbar angles to match...and vice-versa. your track bar does not seem to be the issue.

it would improve your flex geometry. have you looked at your wheel bearings and ball joints at all?

I agree with wildman

no. output shafts and tailshaft housings are different. otherwise, they are the same...but you need both and some skill to turn one into the other. a nice press is necessary.

Buy it, and I'll help with what I can. If its worse than he says, I'll paypal you cash and a month or so storage fees and come get it

it was primarily export only. they don't have too many automatics overseas. the auto was an american option. I can't afford a trip out there to get it.

renault. it's the same motor in some winnebego lesharo's

you will be fine.

that's OEM.