JeepcoMJ

Mine actually has two sets of plugins for license plate lights...all 4 of them on my property do. Second set (spare) where your connectors are is also for plate lights for optional dealer install bumpers such as fey bumpers or similar, to power two seperately wired lights. There is no other factory intended purpose.

Nope, that is what it is for. Someone messed with your plate lights...they are spliced together somehow. Hornbrod is absolutely correct

Don's my best choice on this question, but I felt like getting everyone's input... I'm selling all of the mods on my lifted truck, save engine and intake/header. Have a full 98 conversion to 4x4/ 5 speed, and I'm dropping it to a 3 inch lift with 31's. My question is reguarding gearing. I currently have a d30 and d44 with factory 4.10's. With that in mind, a 5 speed has a higher geared overdrive than an auto. I'm wondering if this is my optimal choice in gearing, or if I should install the 3.73 d30/d44 combo that I have? Just want to know the facts of what I'm getting myself into. Also, this will be a street truck/utility truck. It won't see much offroad time, but it will be heavy. Sliders, custom bumpers, plow, and winches front and rear (eventually). I intend for it to be useful. Right now it is a lawn ornament until I wheel it once in a blue moon, and the tire size is too much and causes issues. I want something that will get me or others out of trouble, and help me with towing and plowing duties. It will see interstate time as well as tow a tow dolly with weight up to that of an xj. Opinionsd/ideas on optimal running gear?

License plate light connector

If you want a 4.o/auto, EVERYTHING needs to come from 4.0/auto HO. Likewise for a 5spd. Wiring in the engine bay is different between the two. I have a complete 5 speed or a complete auto HO harness, with matching computers as well as the crossover harnesses for the upgrade to make the rear harness wotk with the HO harness. I'm stripping my HO converted truck

The seat brackets are different...even more so than mj to pre 97 xj. I didn't see that u were talking about the console brackets. I just wanted to get my 2 cents in

How did you get the brackets? They are welded to the floor... The slider brackets are only part of what you need to make it work. Otherwise, an FYI that they don't just bolt in is in order... And by the way, I posted this from my blackberry...and even took the extra two seconds to spell check it. Run-on sentences are not acceptable, and not comprehensible

so, you're saying you're a liberal with zero clue as to how society NEEDS to work...

buy a shim kit.

yeah, get rid of those modified arms A.S.A.P. those will break on the road or at some inopportune time, causing injury or death...to you, others, or the jeep itself.

bonfire and stripathon at my house?

the old line is flared on the end. it's possible that the flare is bad.

call it in. and NEVER, EVER post pics or stories like this on open forums. it does a GREAT job of giving liberal hippies ammo against ALL OF US, not just you.

IF I'm coming, it's as a ride along. no more wheeling truck.

Picked up a 91 sport parts truck with automan, scored an mj rear slider latch, full console mj insert, and fog/cargo bezel plus a cargo light. Then when I got home I started the wheeling truck to move the parts truck and noticed white smoke...smelled sweet, shut it down, discovered brown coolant and sweet tasting oil. DAMNit...8000 miles on that motor, it's a mopar reman, and at best the head gasket is bad. Crap

there is. you go to the junkyard, cut out the trailer harness connectors (both sides) from a parts comanche, splice them together, and splice your trailer wires...then plug it in.

:-/ man, I'm sorry. that sure isn't a great day.

well gents. time has come for me to slow down, take a breath, and get my arse back in school. who knows, maybe I'll learn that sometimes, keeping your opinion to yourself is the wise choice. all came about today when I got told that our company vans will now have Aggiles gps tracking in them. basic concept is that you clock in to aggiles when you get in the van, and clock out when you get out. not necessarily a bad thing...BUT, I only make $12/hour @ my job, I'm almost never home, and all expenses out of town (including hotels) are out of pocket, reimbursed on the next paycheck. In my position, I can't afford to do that. I can, however, afford to make a couple hundred less per week...as long as I don't have $400/week going out in expenses. on top of all of that, I USED to get paid from when I left my house to when I got home. that's an hour transit each way. but, apparently the gps tracking ties to our expense reports, and the government says that a 45 min. commute to and from work is "normal"...and so I can't clock in for 45 min. of each hour each way. that puts me down $24/day, which WAS nice to have, because it settled me at a theoretical $15/hour. SO. I put in my "3" weeks notice. I am going back to a job I've worked at since I was 15...lifeguard and WSI swim instructor. ironically, I have the patience for that...and the pay is $10 and $14 respectively. that only lasts until labor day. Guess I'll have to find a decent full time 40 hour per week job that doesn't require me to travel out of state and is flexible with me taking night classes. either way, it makes the $30k I have invested in school so far MUCH more valuable...and I will be extremely hireable either in the business field or teaching spanish (Spanish education major, 4 classes left to get that...going to get a minor in business most likely). that's my "growed up" story of the week. Already feel ALOT less stressed, and I'm VERY excited :banana: (sorry guys, seemed like "share week" this week ;) )

remember that yours won't work that way....all of go-jeep's jeeps are right hand drive, and the steering box is on the wrong side.

jake. in the wise words of Yoda; "do, or do not. there is no try."

factory one in front of radiator, NEVER once overheated. there isn't a safe place to put them besides that that gets airflow. not unless you want to bring even more heat into the engine bay.

stop learning the hard way, then. YOU put yourself in your position. we have all been there...or those of us who had to "learn the hard way" have. and those of us who learned the hard way, want to smack someone who is learning the hard way.

#1 lesson. DON'T spend money on something you don't even own yet. drive it, use it, mod it when it's actually yours. I have NEVER bought any vehicle on payments, etc...save several parts vehicles, which were joint purchases.

might need to expand on that some, maybe the O.P. understood it, but it didn't make any sense to me Makes perfect sense...why remove anything until you've actually determined the issue? Remove the diff cover, jack one rear wheel up, and have someone turn that wheel. That will rotate the spiders and tell you if they,re binding cracked or otherwise nonfunctional. If they're fine and nothing else is plainly broken, block the front wheels so the truck can't move. Then put trans in neutral and turn the driveshaft (with wheel still off the ground) while inspecting the ring gear. If the pinion is bad/chipped, this will be generally reflected on the ring gear...but you can look at the pinion if u use a flashlight, too. Colton told me both wheels seem to spin fine. For me this eliminates the possibility that anything in the rear axle being bad. Especially since his tcase is supposedly blown...I think the tcase is the issue, not the rear end

Before u remove any of that, take the cover off, jack one wheel up, and have someone turn the wheel. If they bind, then go through the steps to pop everything out