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Everything posted by JeepcoMJ
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on sunday I replaced a motor mount on my room mate's jeep, did an oil change, rear brake hardware (still need to replace the prop valve and lines), and then I.... did a compression check on my wheeler to verify the head gasket is good, threw on the 35" mickey thompson MTZ's that I got in trade for some work on an '82 vette, and did an oil change and coolant change, then put the fluids in clear jugs to see if anything seperates. I'm paranoid and thought it had a bad head gasket...with 163psi across the board, I don't think that's what could be wrong. tires/rims...
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find some nuts that are just larger than your bolt thread and the same width as the aluminum spacer, and put them in. lock tight the $#!& out of them, and you should be ok. just keep an eye on them until you find a proper spacer.
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ba10/5 to ax15 OR aw4 swap info
JeepcoMJ replied to JeepcoMJ's topic in MJ Tech: DIY Projects and Write-Ups
In my Mj it does not appear to be a seperate harness... I don't see the connectors to plug in the AW4 plugs. It appears to all be part of the body harness on the 88 XJ I'm using as a donor. Any help? Do i really need to swap the whole Harness? :doh: I will have to correct myself. The transmission harness is part of the engine bay harness...NOT part of the dash harness. the tranny computer harness is also part of the engine bay harness. it enters the firewall on the passenger side behind and to the pass. side to the rear of the engine. the TCU is located under the knee board. to do an aw4 TO 5 speed swap, you do not need to replace the harness...you can splice the trans harness connectors together, and swap the ECU and remove the TCU. however, you cannot do a 5 speed TO auto swap without swapping the entire engine harness, or doing some heavy duty wiring to install wires that simply don't exist in the 5 speed harness. -
That is not a h.o. Swap...that is a renix retrofit
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Posi-lock "selectable locker"
JeepcoMJ replied to Incommando's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
it's gonna pull right. HARD. -
there was a jeep in that commercial? where was it?
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I don't know how fast you drive, but even with 205/75 tires and 4.10 gears 70 MPH would only be turning 2750 RPM. 3350 would be an 85 MPH cruise. Personally, I wouldn't drive any MJ (or XJ) that fast, even if it were legal (which, of course, it isn't). yes. you are still taking this too literally....I didn't care to do the math. I just wanted to know what it would run, and STILL I am telling you that I was using a figure of speech. I don't CARE about anything else but the fact that I DON'T want to run it on the interstate at 65mph above 2600rpm. so, with my options, I'm doing just fine. drop that subject, because it doesn't matter.
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I stand corrected. what I should have said, is that the torque curve and hp curve meet at roughly 2250rpm. either way eagle, you can argue with me all day....there is NO WAY ON EARTH that I want to run any engine, of any make, model, or type at 3,000 rpm constant. I didn't even like running my 2.5 that high...and it literally needs to run 3350rpm to maintain speed on the interstate with 4.10's and 5 speed.
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this one doesn't have anything other than lights in it...but it wouldn't be hard to retrofit an xj system into it
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If I were a betting man, I would be willing to bet that with two otherwise identical MJs, one that ran 3,000 RPM at 70 MPH would deliver better gas mileage than one with stock gears and a 5-speed, that runs 1960 RPM at 70 MPH. There's just nothing like running UNDER the torque curve to boost your gas mileage ... NOT. 3,000 RPM is not "@#$% ridiculous high rpm's" for these engines -- it's the speed they were designed to run at. it's torque curve is 2250. keep it around there, you're good. I don't want to get it much higher than that.
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Redlining it? How fast do you drive? Redline is 5,000 RPM. With 31x10.50s and 4.10 gears, in 5th gear 70 MPH is 2440 RPM. Does your truck do 150? Eagle, it was a figure of speach. I didn't say that I DO redline it...just that I don't want to. No, you said you were worried about redlining it. And I was pointing out that with 4.10 gears you would be a LOOOOOOOOONG way from ever approaching redline even at extra-legal highway speeds. Remember these engines were designed before most people had overdrives. The standard setup from AMC typically was 3.08 gears for the I6s and 3.15 gears for the V8s, and on stock tires we cruised at 3000 RPM at 72 MPH -- all day, for hundreds of miles. Y'all (not just you, Pat) have gotten so accustomed to the ridiculously low engine speeds the factory pushed out the door that you think anything over 2,000 RPM is going to blow up the engine. Not so. lol...I have no quarrels with high RPM's. The truck has bounced off the rev limiter quite a few times, and caused no worry to me. that said, I was using a figure of speech when I said "redline". what I should have said is that I don't feel like running @#$%ing ridiculous high rpm's at constant. I like gas mileage...it doesn't need to hit 3,000 rpm at a constant.
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Allriiiigghhtt......Rob! Thank You! :banana: :banana: :banana: And thank you also JeepcoMJ I just might do the recover thing, that looks like it might work well. Come to think about it, I think I still have a couple cans of that 3M spray adhesive.......I know, not for the headliner (3M Auto Headliner Adhesive only), but I think it would work well for the backwall. What about the sub console, does it have any electronic do-hickeys in it? Got any more pics or info on it? I really enjoy this place! lol, the "sub console" is just a small sub box that I made set behind the the OEM black center console. otherwise, that's a 600 watt amp and 10" sub with a 10 disc cd changer....all sony products.
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EVERYTHING must be changed to get a H.O. motor included. the trannies are more or less interchangeable, tho.
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pretty simple. When I did the swap, I thought about not doing the whole swap. BUT. I plugged and played it. I'm not even kidding when i tell you it is EASIER. you don't have to scratch your head and adjust anything. bolt and go. no fabrication, no expensive hesco parts. bolt and go. wire a crossover adapter from the xj dash to the mj tail harness, and you're done. your fuel gauge will read backwards...big deal. find an H.O. mj sender. you eliminate all of the fail points of the renix harness. BEST part of a full H.O. swap is that your wiring harness is no longer freaking retarded....it doesn't wrap around the entire front of your jeep...which means, in a light front end collision, you can still drive away in most cases. can't do that with renix. either way, it's a "to each his own" situation...but for ease of install, you bet your @$$ I'm doing a complete H.O. swap.
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Transmission compatability quesion
JeepcoMJ replied to kyleag89's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
the torque converters between some years have different spacing on where they bolt to. you can redrill them on your flexplate to bolt it up, or use the original year torque converter ( never use a used torque converter with a trans it didn't come with) -
it also requires more thinking, and more keeping track of parts. you get more power with a H.O. electrical setup.
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Retrofitting electronics to work with a motor that they weren't designed for is not exactly easier. IMO, wiring comes out easy. dashes come out with 6 bolts and a bunch of screws. doing this swap, you eliminate ALOT of crappy designs...such as the cable speedo, and the EGR assembly. my full wiring and engine swap took a friday night, saturday, and sunday. buttoning it up was just a day the following weekend, and I was driving it.
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that only gives you a renix-controlled high output. it is ALOT more dicking around for one, and it's an inferior operating system as well.
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it was easy. also, an idea for you....late 90's suburban overhead console
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ed, I did recover mine using the same headliner material that I used on the headliner in order to make my interior black.
