JeepcoMJ

use a '91-'95 fuel rail, injectors, and throttle body. the throttle body can be spliced in to work.

if you feel that it's stretched or sore, you're over-working yourself. a hernia can be fatal. provolking the matter by doing exactly the opposite of what you're supposed to do, could indeed be fatal if it tears again.

Does the shaft move in and out, or does the wheel wobble?

it's fixable. tough, but fixable.

bigger diameter hose is output, medium diameter is return, small diameter is vent. power is plug and play.

so the colors on the wiring connector you had to re-splice were different? what year is your truck? I can try and cross-reference colors for you. but disconnect that connector immediately so that nothing gets fried out! -pat

:( that truck used to be automan's on the forum here, before it went to girsmj86. how long ago did you pick it up from alex?

I'm trying to find out if the '98 xj I stripped had keyless entry...it had full power and whatnot, the PO said they used to have a remote for it, but lost it. I just need to know so that I can get a fob for it and use keyless. any chance anyone can run a vin for me if I post it up?

well, I traded my lifted MJ to my room mate for quite a bit of stuff. among that is an '89 MJ swb shell, with '93 H.O. motor that I resealed for it, 2001 intake, aftermarket replacement header, 62mm TB, aw4, np231 (sealed output), and a grey interior. I have alot of work to do on it. I have a complete H.O. wiring harness for it, but I don't think I'm willing to use MJ specific parts on it. when I stripped the '97 xj out and put the '98 parts in it, I ended up with a complete H.O. conversion to '97+. so, I'm doing that to this truck. Floors should be done in a few weeks, with the 2x6 rockers welded in. 97+ interior, doors, wiring, and front end. running a 3.73 d30 and hope to find another D44 for it with 3.73's. taking the 4.5" RC lift I have and throwing that in it repair all rust and paint her up a nice yellow color. 97+ front clip and windshield custom front and rear bumpers, and exhaust. doing a minor trim job on the bed and fenders. running an optima yellow top, the motor is yellow and black, interior will be a grey/charcoal combination with leather seats if I can find them...otherwise I'll use the dakota 60/40 seats that I have in it. should be interesting. the goal is basically a good looking light/medium wheeler that allows me to keep up with my room mate in my old mj, but is not so big that I break stuff. it'll be a trail survivor as well...I want to be able to get out of any situation I get into. The biggest goal is for it to cost no money other than gas and wire for the welder, and electric. That should be possible since I already have all of the parts to do that. pics as progress allows.

I'll post pics in a day or two, but recent progress consists of: new tranny mount 4x4 shift linkage installed power windows and locks are all installed all key cylinders switched to the '98 so they match the column. cruise control installed today (works great, after some issues with what year switches I could use) Was going to do a 4.5" lift on it, but I came across a 3" lift at the junkyard with NEW shocks. $100 spent on the lift, plus the dodge B-van springs I'm grabbing from TNT, will mean 3" lift front, 3.5" rear, with a higher load capacity, and improved shackle angles. bought a windshield for it today since I cracked the one I was getting from Automan :wall: , so now I have to pick up painting and bodywork material so that I can paint the whole front end, fender flares, and roof to get it all matching with no scratches or rust. do that with the windshield out, then put the new one in, and voila, it's done.

i don't use it either. browse everything, back to main page, mark everything read.

gauge cluster from junkyard vehicle that allowed water on the dash is my only real likely bet as to why they don't work. just replace the cluster.

did you put the right sending units in it for coolant temp and oil pressure? those MUST be swapped to get full gauges to work properly.

Everything but the head gasket unless you can see obvious scoring in the cylinders through the spark plug holes

Thanks Matt!

Been there fone that. Right side, torn from the coin purse to hip bone. Get it fixed a.s.a.p. Before you end up losing a nut. 4 to 6 weeks light duty. I took off work for a week, was walking same day, working on jeeps next day, and doing some interesting things with this chic who felt the need to console me :D. Side note, the mesh used in the repair feels funny for quite some time...

Matt, I have a factory swb roll bar. Have the wheel well brackets for inside the wheel well, too...but they're rusted through in a spot or two. Don't have the frame tie in's though. Roll bar just needs cleaned and painted. $200 firm, I can bring it to automan's house on sunday since you'll be there anyways. I'd only bring it if you're taking it for sure, as I have to strap it to the roof of my xj to bring it there. Let me know.

Yup

Yup, clutch master

The nss will have to be wired to itself, and reverse lights to ur 95 wiring. The 97+ 5 speed nss is actually part of the master cylinder. I still think it's halfass. I don't like splicing factory stuff...somehow there's always issues later on, no matter how well it's done Side note, the ACM was located under the console in the 97, under driver's seat in the 98.

Wait, the AIR BAG system is different depending on what transmission is installed? That confuses me a bit. What's different about the steering column / wiring? Definite good point on the flywheel, I had forgotten that part. Steering column has the key safety built in on a 5 speed, on an auto it runs a cable to the shifter on the floor. The dash wiring is the same, but from the firewall forward is different. The engine bay harness has 2 extra connectors in the auto for the trans control and . Also, the TCM wiring is part of the engine bay harness. The air bag wiring is different, and the BCM seems to be located under the seat on 5 speeds, and under the center console. That could b a difference between 97 and 98 though... But basically, you can halfass the wiring to work...or do it right. Either way will function, but one is a PITA to make work.

There's no difference between 4dr and 2dr xj wheelbase, and either is roughly 1 ft too short. So, no it won't work.

Just put 98 5 zpeed parts into 98 auto, required complete swap to 98 wiring harness. The wiring for the engine bay and the air bag systems plus the engine/trans wiring are NOT compatible. You will need a complete 5 speed harness to do the swap. Steering column is optional but a good idea. ECU are different, and flywheel will need to be for the year of engine operating system you are using.

probably your heater box fan. if it stays on, the resistor has fried in the heaterbox. passenger side inside the cab under the knee bar attatched to the heaterbox with two small hex screws, it has an electrical connector with I think 5 wires coming to it. grab one from the junkyard, swap it, you should be good to go.

Love mine. Bolt on...order one for your year for a cherokee. Not compatible with the 2000+ intake manifold tho