JeepcoMJ

that is the general idea. I actually don't need the NSS...I just need to figure out which pins to the ECU are for the NSS, and basically loop them or put a switch inbetween them. the 5 speed NSS is part of the clutch master cylinder in '97+, and there is a factory bypass wire tied to the connector for it...but that doesn't solve the problem. Unfortunately, my biggest issue is knowing whether using the auto NSS pins will even work...if the ECU will even register it, since it's flashed for a 5 speed.

you ARE planning on trussing that axle, right?

alright, so referencing this thread from naxja on extended idle: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=79549 I can NOT get any info on what would need to be done to a 5 speed ecu to get the high idle to work. I'd like to make the high idle work in my '98 xj. I'd like it to appear stock. i would NOT like to use a hand throttle...that is just redneck. redneck is NOT something I'm interested in. talking with the gurus on naxja, they can't come up with a straight answer for me. so. here's what I've discovered. The '97+ 5 speed and auto ECU's are the same, save some programming. they have the same amount of pins (to the extent that I can discover), share the same ecu plugs, and are the same size and "bolt pattern". from that, I then went to deduce that some wires are in fact NOT present in the 5 speed harness, that are present in the auto harness. I need to discover a way to trick the ecu into thinking it's in "park" or "neutral" so that I can make pin number 12 on the ECU do what it is supposed to when it is grounded out. does anyone know of any way or have any ideas on how to go about doing that? Thanks, Pat

I've done the same leg work lol. my thought for putting the frames together was to find a piece of steel that fits INSIDE the frame rails, welding it into the back half with plug welds, sliding it into the xj's frame (since where the cuts will be leave the frame at the right width), and plug welding it in there after leveling it all out. then cap the frame with some fish tailed C channel, plug weld and finish weld it in...then weld up the rockers and floor, and move onto the roof. it's a shame that you're cutting up that mj...looks to be in good shape.

the doors are 9" longer. so you will need to make the cab longer than that in order to put rear seats in it. I suggest cutting the xj behind where the small vent windows would be in the rear side windows, and melding the comanche in right there. cut the mj off right in front of the b pillars, and leave the cab vents on it.

Crap. I was afraid of that. I've already had my headliner recovered and my visors recovered in the Comanche and now they won't work. not true. just relocate the RKE elsewhere. you actually could use the xj overhead light, even the full console (cut down of course), with xj short visors. all it is is slicing a hole or two in the headliner...and that hole will get covered up by the light or the console, so it's nothing to worry about.

dealership up here just said they won't even touch the cherokee. something about a bastardized vehicle and "hackjob wiring". I told them there's nothing hack-job about it. matter of fact, there's not one single non-factory splice in the entire wiring harness. told them to think of it as a '99. They said that without the vin reading as a '99, they can't touch it. So I went and talked to a service tech there. he's going to be in the shop on saturday, and will do it for me for $25. at least someone understands. I have 4 '99+ remotes that will be programmed to the jeep. two for both spare sets of keys, one for my room mate's set of keys, one for mine. another thing I did is pop a couple wires into the unlock pins in the driver's side kick panel, and run them to an undisclosed location with a push button switch on it on the exterior of the vehicle (no, they're not "spliced"...literally pushed into the connector before it was plugged together :D). That way if I lock my keys in, it's no problem.

are you getting power to the sender? if not, bypass the ballast resistor.

Pull it all in one go...engine, trans, tcase. Just did it on two 5 speed mj's recently. Disconnect everything, remove header panel, core support, and radiator. Remove crossmember, driveshafts, shift linkage, center console, shifter, exhaust, etc. And pull it right out. You will want a load leveller on your hoist. Do the clutch and slave cylinder while you're in there. Consider going with a 95+ bellhousing and slave so that it's external.

Get a bill of sale, sign the title, keep your plates, drive it home. Don't put your plates on...if not registered, that is illegal. Show any police the title and bill of sale with the date of purchase, and they literally can't hassle you.

Should be able to without any issue. Worst case you need to swap the connector out, but it was very easy to pull the pins out in order to install mine...the connector by the fuse box was different between years, as were two wire colors, but it was simple and straight forward enough.

Perfect. That's what I WANT so that's sweet as hell. Thanks sir sam!

i can't read lol.

so. I have a '97 cherokee. that's running all '98 wiring, which was necessary because the '98 was a 5 speed, the '97 was not, and I wanted a 5 speed. Anyways. the '98 had power windows and locks. it also had keyless entry, but no FOB's. So, I bought a '97-98 fob, and a 99+ fob. well, then I just HAD to add an overhead console. added one from a '00, complete with the wiring for it from the fuse panel to the OHC, as well as with lighted mirrors. so, I now have a '97 xj with '98 wiring and power windows/locks, with '00 cruise control, and '98 cruise switches, with an '00 overhead console. that in mind, I didn't swap the keyless command module out with the '98's. Here's the question; since I'm using a 2000 keyless reciever/controller, can I use the 2000 style key fob, or is that determined by the year of ECU? I WANT the new style FOB...I hate the old style FOB. anyone have experience with this? Thanks, Pat

it's much thicker than 9/16".

the light would be on. I'll get you the colors soon as I get the wiring out of the parts truck today.

agreed. where are you at, jim?

the black one is the ground, so the other two get wired together. use a test light from the center to either side, see which one grounds out the light. then wire from the center to the one that does NOT ground the light out.

you NEED them. comanche female ends are soft..no plastic on them to keep them rigid from the floor. cherokee ones are rigid from the floor up...so they won't fall down every time you disconnect them. held in with a T50 torx bolt.

middle wire gets wired to bottom wire, IIRC. just make a jumper for it with two male spade connectors, then tape them in.

any factory fog light switch will do...go to the junkyard and nab one.

those brakes are typical non c-clip d35 brakes. c clip d35 has the same brakes as the 8.25. but, judging the size of that differential, almost looks like a d44

only specifics needed is power steering or manual? if it's 4.0 it is power steering.

I have the wiring harness, already done for a comanche, if you're interested in just going that route. save you the time to splice it...

no, that's regular amc20's (NOT comanche amc20's...those are 1 piece)