JeepcoMJ

yeah, I have the curve 2. but after playin with the itouch (warning; statement not to be taken out of context :eek: :D ), and my room mate's droid....I HATE the zoom feature of the blackberry.

rides OK, lasts good, 33's with trimming. 10.50's are widest recommended at 4.5" lift.

anyone else have them? mine freezes up when anyone who's saved from the O section to the R section calls me. the other day Rob (automan) called me and it didn't even tell me. it freezes up on the internet, and when I'm texting. it's a PITA. I've updated it, talked to US cellular customer service. this is the THIRD blackberry I've had since june. one I dropped in 75 gallons of coke syrup, and the insurance covered it and replaced it. the second just wouldn't recieve any calls. this one is doing this. the bill is paid, and I don't think it's US cellular. that said, $120 a month is NOT worth it. sprint has the new EVO for $70 or $80/month with the same sh*t I'm getting now.

yeah...but it's harder to carry a few hundred feet of 3" nylon rope. it doesn't store as nicely as a good strap.

cables have more tendency to snap, and they have more recoil if they do break. if a strap breaks, it's not going to puncture anyone and kill them. maybe a welt if you're dumb enough to be real close to it. they also don't go flying as far when they break. that, and they distribute weight over more surface space, as they are wider.

I'm the same way. And yeah, lowest he'll go. But, it is worth it, I NEED those parts...and we're trying to use what we NEED right away before my room mate starts driving the xj that we need them for. Plus, I have 1 week before I start work again, and after that I won't have time to deal with it.

Yeah. Other than one comanche I paid $1200 for, I've never spent more than $300 on a jeep initially, save the last two ...a 97 with minor front end damage and a bad motor, and a 98 with a lot of body damage but a good motor and a 5 speed. Paid 650 for one, 550 for the other. I am buying it in 2 weeks when I have cash$ right now I'm flat broke

eh. I'm the black sheep of the club reguarding comanche quantity. I've owned 24 now. just under half of that have made it out alive. the rest were too rusty for me to spend the time to save them.

See, I can't actually afford this right now. I'll make it work out, and the room mate is paying for half...the net gains, at least immediately, will be more geared towards us than our pocket books. I probably have a buyer for the motor, if it's good. So that would bring us in the + zone cash wise. It's tough to spend $500 on a parts jeep when we bought one and had it driving for $800.

vote isn't working for me. but, DMV. I go there much more often.

well, I don't have any pictures of this, but since jakeman lives next door, maybe he can grab some for me... Jakeman's neighbor just wrecked their late '99 xj. it's a 4.0/auto classic. airbags went off. it got hit hard enough to bend the passenger frame rail IN toward the motor. the motor mount on that side is twisted 45 degrees. the frame is contacting the oil filter, and actually bent it. the frame also got bent UP, and the passenger front door won't open, because the roof kinked DOWN. surprisingly, the windshield is still good. anyways, the worst thing is, there is now no oil in the engine. I have no idea if it was still running for a bit after the accident happened, or if the kid driving it was smart enough to shut it off. or if it shut itself off, since the battery was broken. the reason that that's a concern is that the passenger upper control arm put a hole in the oil pan. right next to the oil pump, a bit lower than the main body of the pump. I'm betting it bent the oil pickup tube. anyways, with that kind of damage, especially to the oil pan, what would you look for on the motor to see how bad it is? I'm paying $500 for it. it has 3 good doors, all power, a good transmission, newer intake, good 8.25 rear, good driveshafts, good transfercase, good windshield, good (factory) tinted rear glass. the reason I'm buying it is that I'll get $250 to $300 back in scrap after stripping it, and we just bought my room mate a '97 xj that has no power, and shoddy tint rear windows. so, net gains of this for his xj would be: '99 intake good exhaust manifold factory tinted rear door, side, and rear window with defrost (he doesn't have defrost) cruise control motor (it's actually still good) power windows, locks, and keyless entry for his xj I need the windshield for my cherokee, and a few other little odds and ends. leftover parts would be; engine trans transfercase driver's door both rear doors rear hatch rear axle gas tank with sender 99+ cruise switches (airbag and clock spring are toast) column with switches '99 conversion for my old wheeler that I sold the room mate brake booster and master cylinder axleshafts with 297 joints 3 good alloys set of decent tires spare tail lights spare roof rack and, I'd get at least half of the value back in scrap, loaded with a bunch of spare parts. sound like a good deal?

yeah. I'd have supply power or ground out the a/c wire then...but I like my working a/c lol. I *could* cut the wire on the back of the heater control, and use a 3 pole switch that is normally open in the "off" position, and normally closed in the "on position" so that I can retain a/c control under normal conditions, and pop up the idle under abnormal conditions.

lol...sure... :rotf: I actually may have a solution that will essentially do just that, paul... power door lock actuator mounted with a cable in the dash to the gas pedal. flip switch, turns on relay, pulls gas pedal as far as the actuator can move. problem with this is that the actuator would probably burn out really quickly, and also get very warm, potentially starting a fire. maybe then the other thing is that it's got to be able to move further than that, if need be. it's a dillema.

The wire for pin 12 didn't exist, I installed it, and it doesn't work when grounded out.

.... nothing was really bolted down from the get-go.

huh. sounds like your engine's got a tick... :yes:

maybe I'd unground it?

thanks, I'll give it a shot.

. It doesn't work on a 5 speed because it won't work on an auto unless it is in park, or neutral. I need to trick the 5 speed into registering that. So yes, the NSS is linked somehow to the high idle

Anyone have anything they'd like to sell? I'm thinking of getting a spot or two.

Less than 180hp. So much less than a 4.0 from a stock diesel. A diesel swap may net quite a bit more hp

yup. and they only get an average of 28mpg, 34mpg max. there's less torque there than a usual diesel...hence the fact that their only other application is small french cars, and the winnebego lesharo.

location please.

See, that is what I'm looking for when I ask for help. you've confirmed my thought pattern on this. unfortunately, I don't have an FSM for it...I do have one for the older body style...my dad had it before '97, so it doesn't have the information needed. I'll have to pick up a copy, or download it. And I agree with you on using one switch with several poles to control the function at one time. I have one in mind, which is a momentary single throw...it has two inputs, two outputs, which are not connected to each other, plus a 3rd input and output for the light. it's a similar rocker design to ARB air switches...out of a peterbuilt. obviously it's electrical rather than air, and while it is a momentary switch, it does lock in to position when pushed and lock out when pushed again. Anywho...I will have to get the FSM, figure out which pins do what, and then see if those pins even exist on a 5 speed ECU. Thanks Don -Pat

return it....or call them, tell them they sent you the wrong one, and that you'll report them to the better business bureau if they don't make it right. there is NO reason that you should HAVE to use the wrong part. you didn't screw up; they did.