JeepcoMJ

it's all about how you drive them, and if tire size is optimum for your gearing. you can yank alot of mileage out of them. hell, my '87 is running a '95 H.O. setup with 8,000 on the motor. 4.0, factory reman bored .030 with a comp. cam, 2001 intake manifold, borla header, 19lb injectors, and 62mm TB. auto trans, and 4.10's with 6.5" lift and 35x12.50's. I got 20mpg on it last CC outing by babying the hell out of it for the most part. with the 33's on it, I can get up to 23mpg when I'm nice. I average 15-17mpg when I drive it "normal"

he made use of something that would otherwise be sitting there rotting.

Get real gasket

and you didn't tell me about it? I've been lookin for one!

look for a vacuum leak.

how's the pressure at the schraeder valve on the fuel rail?

eh. now my $#!&'s waterproof. I even silicon'd around the oil pan gasket and head gasket after everything settled in...offroad guys do it to keep small grains of whatever you're in getting in the motor.

duct taped the hinge side of the passenger door to the body so it won't fall off since the hinges are removed right now.

zj rear coils drop the front 2.5-3". we did that to beaterjeep's '88. if you adjust length of the lowers, the uppers will need adjusted accordingly, and vice-versa. steering just needed to be adjusted to have it be fine. there was good clearance on the oil pan at that drop. to drop the rear, the "poor-man's way" is to install lift blocks. above the axle, with a Spring-Under-Axle setup, you will net whatever drop that the blocks were supposed to lift. be careful, your rear driveshaft may need to be shortened if you go too low (it'll slam into the tail housing and crack it). I'd suggest making rear sway bars.

DO NOT use that cork gasket. give it two weeks...it will leak. drop the cash on the rubber gasket, and use RTV ultra black sealant on the valve cover side of it. that way you can remove the valve cover if/when you need to, and reuse the gasket.

simple things first. before you go listening to anyone about which sensor is causing the issue, go and get your fuel pressure tested, and your spark and compression tested. you will have to find a mechanic for that, or buy the tools for that. I have everything to do that and spend $70...used multiple times and has paid for itself. then ohm out each spark plug wire. they should all be under 5ohms. as close to zero as possible...the more ohms, the more resistance, the less spark you will get. then remove your distributor cap and check for moisture, cracks, corrosion on the contacts. do the same for the rotor. after that, look for a ceramic (white) object with one bolt through the middle that has two wires connected to it. make a jumper wire with two male spade ends on it (will cost under $1 with some spare wire that's laying around). bypass that ceramic piece, remove it, and inspect it. it is called a Ballast Resistor, and pretty much it's only purpose is to quiet down the fuel pump. if you can see the coils of the spring behind it, it's probably bad...if they are corroded, it is definitely bad. if there is still sealant on it, but it's cracked, it's also probably bad. Without this Resistor working or it being bypassed, you get zero power to fuel pump. It may be going bad, and work here and there...kinda like a somewhat blown fuse. If all else fails, get a spec sheet from Lead_not_follow's website for ohming out your sensors to find out which one is bad. to do all this, you'll need fuel pressure tester (can be made with a water-type gauge, some hose, and a schreader valve adapter for under $20) compression tester...under $40, cheaper at harbor freight volt meter....a fairly nice one at walmart is $25 wire strippers (or use your teeth, etc....under $7 for a cheapo) wire connectors (small kits are CHEAP...under $10) This is all easy to do. -Pat

short answer; yes, it will work. there is still an automatic trans computer up to 1996, '97 is the year that trans controls were part of the ECU. it *should* work just fine. BUT you will have to do some splicing to make your reverse lights and neutral safety switch work...the connectors in that area are not the same. If converting from '87-'90, you will also need to use a '91-'93 (maybe '94) flywheel...yours will not work. If that is the case, you need each and every single electrical part for the engine bay and dash. you WILL be removing your dash to do this swap. you will also need to do a "crossover" harness from xj to mj to make your rear harness work. IIRC, it is mfpdm did a write-up for this in DIY

ya i know how to i was just trying to see, 24 gallons is correct. i thought i saw someone got like 600 on a tank, it musta been a four banger....and mines everything you say except a high output, thats the white one. :thumbsup: thanks for being a normal person and helping me out too :thumbsup: his method is wrong. you need to divide by the gallons the fill up takes. and it must be a full fill up...not half full, not 3/4 full, 100% full tank. if you usually top off, you must do that every tank you try to figure out your mileage on...only way to be accurate. 4.0/auto with highway driving should net you around 19-21mpg easily if it's running right. I've gotten 24mpg. you also can't base how good your mileage is by how many miles you went...asking "is 335 miles on my tank good" is pointless....it will differ between comanches depending on what gas tank size you had...there was no single "standard" gas tank size on a comanche. there were several, and the options of which one you have also vary between longbed and shortbed. so, figure YOUR mileage by taking miles on tank divided by gallons at full fuel-up.

JK dana 44 is a much better unit than the TJ d44. bull. it's wider, with no change in axle tube diameter. geometrically, it's weaker because there is more leverage against the differential housing. trussed (properly), yes it's stronger than a stock tj44 up front. stock...nope, not a chance.

the gremlin stuff is. that's what he's looking for. I gotta get my phone numbers transferred to the new phone since I cracked the screen, then I can get back to him with her number

moisture in distributor. check for cracks in cap, make sure it's tight enough AFTER you let it dry out.

interesting... and exactly why none of my information such as address, phone number, and instant messaging are on it. not that it stops the government from knowing all of that anyways.

eh...that's a personal opinion. I just tried to retrain a couple wiener dogs properly. gave up and let my mom take them back, I have no patience for dogs crapping anywhere. that said, a lab or retriever is/are some of the easiest, best dogs you can get...but they've got nothing on a german shepherd :D

why do you need it? full gauge cluster is bolt-in

build it with a frame. make it more rust proof with less pinch welds. 4.0 or a decent little NON-CHRYSLER DESIGNED turbo diesel. 5 speed is a standard base model option, with the automatic being harder to find/get. ZERO modern day "safety" devices. screw air bags, on star, automatic parallel parking, antilock brakes, etc. I want all power options, leather, seating for 4, a little wider body, and longer wheelbase with frame and axle ratings high enough to actually tow a god dang trailer.

no pics, but I got some cool decals, 8 40amp relays with connectors and pigtails two more pigtails for said relays 1 fuel line tool 3 heavy gauge quick connects for battery cable size wire a bunch of wiring connectors etc. 4 sealed fuse housings with pigtails 1 thin wheel adapter for air dremel 10 discs for it sweet jeep oil cap with AMC logo cut in it some food some jumper cables to use on the quick connects when I wire the connects to the front and rear of the truck.

i don't care to find out.

you center the axle by adjusting the trackbar. please tell me that you have aftermarket control arms in there... trimming them is bad enough if they're aftermarket. if they're stock, trimming them is a terrible idea and they're gonna break. if they're stock, then you need to buy some things for it before you ever even drive it again.

under, and the carpet gets installed on the floor first.

I'm curious - what about the '87 Renix will make it difficult to swap in a later model 4.0L? I honestly don't know, that's why I'm asking! you have to swap all accessories, but the renix intake and exhaust ports on the manifolds don't line up, so you really should use the '87 head, or a '91 to '98 exhaust manifold and downpipe. then you have to retrofit the renix throttle body to work, or retrofit the renix TPS to work on the H.O. throttle body. then there's all the vacuum refits. now, you could do the "full" H.O. swap, but the wiring from a grand cherokee is NOT going to sit in a comanche. there are a bunch of extra things in that wiring that are useless and will make it hard to get things bolted together since you can't install all the optionns the WJ has. you can't use the exhaust manifolds from the WJ without dicking around with custom downpipe. to do a high output swap as a full high output swap, you must swap the engine and dash harness swap with all electrical and cooling components.