JeepcoMJ

into which of your comanches? the high output '92...yes. but you'll probably have to thread the bosses for the cherokee/comanche motor mounts the renix '87...nope. not without a bunch of dicking around.

http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/cto/1702349702.html people are retarded.

I'm going, rain or shine. I've got a good poncho, and I'll bring a change of clothes.

I'll be the retard to respond to this. :D Yes, potentiometers are not present on all the tachometers. If not there is a fixed calibration resistor on all tachs. These resistors can be changed w. another of greater/less ohms, which alters the meter deflection based on input and calibrated to accurately measure RPM. It's usually done by soldering in a temporary potentiometer. Don't say it can't be done just because you don't know how to do it. If the tach is indicating linearly with engine RPM, it can be calibrated with a function generator, an o'scope, a known good standard external tach, and a test potentiometer. And to the original posted who started this mess, stick the 86 cluster in and try the damn thing. Don, simply put if he can't comprehend what's been said so far, he can't do what you're saying can be done. me, for the $30 that a cluster costs (AT MOST) from a junkyard....I'll just swap it. they're factory gauges, which are not entirely accurate anyways. I want it to be close, and I don't want to waste a bunch of time making it work.

if you're gonna buy a rebuilt, buy a rebuilt 3.4 longblock. swap all the stuff from your 2.8 onto it

the fact that it was a trial, and the seats are right about at that line would be my guess. he's not cutting the window frame off....good thing because then he can make button-up sides for it

it's a willy's pickup. and that one looks rough.

same year firebirds.

4.0 requires swapping hood, some welding to swap out the front header supports, and some massaging on the firewall. do a 3.4 swap. if you can get a 3.4 with a 5 speed, and you have a 5 speed, it should be bolt-in completely. likewise, if you get a 3.4 with an auto and you have an auto, it should be completely bolt-in. you need your exhaust manifolds and oil pan and all the bracketry from your 2.8...you will need to swap the harmonic balancer as well to keep the V-belts. I would highly suggest going to fuel injection.

yes! let's make sure we add MORE parts that can move to the axle that sees more stress! AWESOME IDEA! seriously. bolt on SOA perches are a garbage idea.

So how do you account for the fact that my friend in Greece was able to use a tach from a 1989 4.0L MJ in his 1984 2.5L XJ? Yes, he used the potentiometer to adjust for the 4-banger, but the reading when he first fired it up was consistent with what it should have been if his engine had been a 6-cylinder. A tachometer only reads pulses, and counts them. If it did anything else, we would not be able to walk into Auto Zone, buy a Sun Super Tach, and just flip to switch to 4 or 6 cylinders and hook up the wires. I told you that I don't know why they're not the same. and I also said that an '86 2.8 has NO potentiometer...at the very least I'm zero for five on that aspect...of five gauge clusters, zero had potentiometers on the tach. there ARE different pulse signals between different brands of motors. case and point, I had to have a pulse signal adapter made in order to run the buick 3800 with the '86 2.8 tach. I thought that was wierd, as it was at least a gm motor. I haven't researched into the "why's" of things. I HAVE figured out the "how's"....and it simply isn't something that can be made to work very easily.

and before some retard debates what I'm saying, yes, the gauge cluster will "bolt-in". but the tach won't work, and the speedometer gauge won't even bolt into that cluster. as has been stated, there is NO POTENTIOMETER on the '86 tachometer. thus it is not adjustable. eagle, hornbrod, I don't know why the signals are not the same, but they are NOT. I have tried putting an '86 cluster in an '88 4.0, no dice. can't do it, and it can't be adjusted. everything but the tach worked properly....end of story, this cluster will not accurately reflect the revolutions per minute of your 4.0. it can't be fixed, you will need a new gauge cluster. I had to use the '86 speedo cable to attempt this, end result was that the tach didn't work and I went back and bought a different cluster..

this post will end the debate. the pinout to the foil on the back of the '86 cluster is DIFFERENT than the pinout on the '90 cluster. they route differently, though they go to the same respective locations. the tachometer on the '86 runs off of a different range input than the tach on the '90 does, so it WON'T work. the gauge cluster housing is different on the '86, so the '90 speedo WON'T go in the '86 cluster. you WILL NEED a gauge cluster from mid 87 to 1990. early '87 gauge clusters are rumoured to run off of a different range input for the tachometer as well, even though they are 4.0's from '87+

I've had to replace 2 windshields. I will NEVER pay to have it done. it costs $50 for a windshield from a junkyard...and if you break it, you move on and grab another one from another xj. $20 in sealant from advance auto, a few razor blades, some tape and newspaper. $20 for the '95+ seal if you want it instead. I take the old broken windshield out with a hammer, having taped the vents over and covered the seats in newspaper. take the trim off, smash the edges of the windshield with the hammer (3lb wedge-end sledge works great, but be careful not to hit the body) then pull out the windshield. fold it up, put it in the trash. heat gun plus razor blade to get the old sealant off...scrape as close to the frame as you can, but don't scrape out all of the sealant UNLESS you have rust. if you have rust, you will be working with a wire wheel to remove ALL of the sealant, then you will prime and paint the windshield frame after taping off the edges. THEN you will be worried about gluing the new one in. remove all the trim clips as you go. put them back when it's clean if you're not upgrading to the new seal. you want to leave some of the old material to improve how the new material adheres. you can use piano wire or a windshield removal tool to remove the old glass if you wish. I find that it's a PITA to remove the factory glass with the windshield trim clips in there, and half of them are glued into the frame. word of advice...get a windshield from a '95+ xj. the sealant on them is softer, and the rubber gasket cuts easy.

wade, removing the hinges from the door itself will result in your doors no longer being perfectly sealed. the only way to actually get it "perfect" is to remove your fenders, put the two bolts per hinge that are "in-line" almost all the way in with the shims in EXACTLY the same order and same hinge as before, close the door, and then have someone push the door towards the cab while you tighten the bolts with an extended T50. it's a pain in the @$$. do what adam says and just cut the hinges with the doors on. come out to my place next weekend and you can use my sawzall to get the second set of hinges and shims off of the longbed we're scrapping, and use those hinges on your half doors. your new pins should be grade 8 bolts.

over the past 5 years, I have located 26 of them in the states...I thought this made 27, but it was one I had already counted. most of them are in junkyards, i know of 4 still in service, and a couple that run but need attention. there's rumour of someone who has several of them in some redneck state, but I can't verify that.

haha, thats me saying yes when I discovered the black interior

you literally can't tune these engines up. you do that, you're gonna kill it. plain and simple that happens every once in awhile. be sure to fill the oil a bit high before startup so it will prime itself.

any pics of any progress?

first, turn off caps. second, first post on a forum looking for parts that are next to near impossible to get...may send the wrong signals. third, go to naxja. we don't do anything with 2500 parts after our last failed order. there is one kit for sale in classifieds here, he's from mexico, and is our only tie to jeep 2500 parts. you can take the time to search classifieds...I'm not doing it for you.

a wrangler for a first car for a driver just starting @ 23 may not be the best idea. short wheel base, and she won't be able to grasp that it's not bulletproof. speaking from experience here...friend's 23 year old girlfriend just started driving, she can't handle it. same deal with a coworker. both have jeeps (uniframe jeeps) and one has been totalled because she didn't understand that it is not a tank.

true, but a newer truck getting 20mpg probably won't break as much. there is NOTHING worse than a renault 2.1 for maintaining. I'd venture to say that a 2.8 is more reliable than a 2.1 (this coming from someone who has been around both, and who fell in love with comanches because of my dad's 2.1 turbo mj)

find a way to fit a 401 in it yet? I sent you an email about your craigslist add to correct a couple things so your sale goes easier. how's that tan mj doin?

this brings the tally of comanche diesels (factory) in the states up to 25. I own one, though it's not as nice.

Jerry and Will brought the J. Rob L. and I brought Jerry and Will :D someone had to represent the j-trucks...figured they were the best bet. I had a good haul.... maroon xj sport seats..$30 4.0 .030 over pistons, new, no rings...$35 xj/mj windshield, new...$50 mj lwb 23.5 sending unit...$30 windhshield removal tool...$10 and...something I've been looking for for YEARS... oem black b pillar trim, rear under-window trim, kick panel trim...$30. I only wish he had saved the lower trim pieces and seat belts. because then I'd have everything OEM.