JeepcoMJ

they are called E-sockets. I have them still in every one of my jeeps...but I have the right socket for them :D. also got a wrench and ratcheting wrench for them.

yeah, but now I'm fubar'd...cause I only needed these bedsides if they wrapped around. both the trucks I need them for need the corners, too.

well, I have one. what year aw4 do you have?

I've got a set of either 2" or 2.5" that I'm not using right now. to put those in, though, you have to remove the coils. that can be done by lifting it, jackstanding the frame, and letting weight off the coils, then renting a coil spring compressor from someplace like advance auto. you probably will need to unbolt the shocks, swaybar links, and trackbar to do that.

STOP taking advice from whoever suggested that. and get some proper spacers. that thing is a truck stop abortion...no bueno.

bad idea. get an actual coil spacer, or at least some more factory coil isolators. that thing is no bueno, I see it failing frequently.

DON'T buy a transfercase. I have one for you. don't have a skid, though.

Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found that's my friend aaron's chop-top. I got him to use a "dealer install" mj slider I had. this was easier for him to do a cheromanche with, than using the mj cab section.

yep, I've gone back over everything. I'm NOT getting power at the turn signal flasher. there's nothing that I knocked loose, so I'm assuming I probably blew out a fusible, or the clutch fluid finally did it's work there, too.

I'd rather see the complete setup....spot welds are easier than vertical stitch welds.

yeah, but I have tried several different switches with no improvement (read: have hooked up the electrical of several other columns and no change)

my thoughts, too.

yep

grr. it worked before :( and it hasn't really even moved since I brought it home.

my 90 elim is mad at me. when I got it, I didn't get a key with it. so, I tore down the column so I could bring it home. when I put the column back together, the turn signals weren't working. so, I tested a couple of spare turn signal switches that I had on it. none of those were working. went to check the fuses to find that they are now inline, and I do have power. someone has repaired the fusebox before. When it's running, with the lights on, both signals on the gauges are stuck on...but when I flip the turn signal switch, the one I flip it to will turn off...but the signals won't actually work. with the lights off, they still won't work. any ideas?

I select "yes"

longarms are junk...mounted to factory crossmember. rear quarters are junk, dented.

replacing front inner or rear inner?

FYI, some states (like WI), want to tell you that you have to register as a class B if you intend to pull other vehicles with it. so, DON'T mention any towing that you may do with it, and make damned sure they register it class A. stupid wisconsin.

I would like to call dibs on ALL of the willy's stuff, and the j10 chassis. I need another project...j/k...actually, I have a cummins 6bt from my grandpa's old rusted out dodge, and my dad would like to do some crazy willys project with it. anyways, the 9th is my birthday. who's buying me lunch?

I have one lwb bedmat and two swb bedmats (all being used), and didn't pay a dime for any of them. they all say jeep comanche on one of the corners.

lifters can be done without removing the head on a 4 cylinder...but you will need some sort of grabber or the proper tool for pulling the lifters out, and putting the new ones in. seals, also not too bad. as stated, do the rope trick. make sure you use synthetic rope as it's less likely to fray and lose small pieces in the cylinder. the rope will have to be around 7/16 diameter to fit in. honestly, though, if I were doing the lifters and seals, I would be lapping the valves, too...that requires removing the head as well, which is easier with the intake/exhaust manifold off. obviously that requires a head gasket.

yes, the gear will work with the 4x4 conversion. I *may* have a 33 tooth. I know for sure I have 34 and 32 tooth.

here's the chart http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoSpeedoGears.htm calculate your USA measurement of the tire, and compare it to the chart, then shoot me a pm on which one you need. from all the jeeps I've parted out, I have rougly 20 speedo gears laying around, so chances are I have one. the going rate for a speedo gear (new) is around $70, I sell them on naxja for $25 plus shipping, and they usually end up costing a base of $30 shipped. -Pat

you get to make a custom one for it then.