watchamakalit

That vehicle shows a lack of discriminating taste, The builder must love all equally.

What sort of retention method would you suggest? Would there be and issue with something like that walking out over time and use?

That would be awesome

I am running General Spring Metric Ton Rear springs with a 3" lift in the rear. Up front I have RE 4.5" springs with Core 4x4 Adjustable track bar and short arms. I am running bilstien shocks all the way around, on 31" tires. If your going to go 33" tires I would definitely suggest a regear. I have 3.55 gears and 5th gear is useless if there is a decent incline. Overall I am very pleased with the ride quality. Its a little stiffer in the rear with the heavy springs but not bone shattering. Very comfortable on road ride. I don't wheel my truck nor do I have plans to. It is simply a daily driver so I can't really speak to how the lift would perform off road.

It has no title or drive train. I was thinking about an 1/8th mile truck or parts donor.

1990 comanche sport truck SWB 2WD 4.0l manual trans d35 rear Build date: 5/90 Currently in Huntington county indiana I revived the truck with no drive train or interior

Look what followed me home today.

Every time I click on this thread the jealousy gets stronger..... Tell your brother I eagerly look forward to updates on this project. I'm sure its gonna be awesome when done. Your father has raised some talented kids that's clear.

Is there a way to test the vac side with a vac pump? If I pull vac at the servo it should hold correct? Just thinking of ways to narrow it down. I was told by the seller of my cruise stuff that he never had it working so no idea if the brain is even any good. I am going to Rons on sunday. I think he has a brain box or 6...

Have you ever been inside your doors? Wondering if the brace is in there. Any chance you could pull me some measurements from the edge of the door and down from the window? Just don't wanna drill holes and my brackets not line up. Pete I have concerns with where the brace locates in the door and if I will be able to drill the holes from the inside out. But I haven't been in the doors to look since I got my tow mirrors.

So happy comanche birthday to all.

Yup thats why I drive junk.....So my junk won't shrink.....

I used Norco products on mine. I did the roof, back wall, and trans tunnel. My floors are bedlinered the rest of the way. I still need to pull the doors apart and do them. But overall I am amazed at the difference it made so far.

Got the important part done....

I havent tackled it yet. Between work and my first visit to Ron's I havent had time to tackle it without being in a rush. I need to spend some time compiling a parts list for the next visit to Ron's (who btw has a couple of those pesky little special tailgate latch bolts). Lol. I will probably get a chance today or tomorrow.

Btw thats not just a chrome twilight. That is a NOS never been mounted or had bulbs in it. Ron took it out of the box so we could see it.

Definitely not a complaint though. Thanks Pete

Omg guys runs collection is amazing. I'll be back there next Sunday.

Tool building such as this is where those cheap little welders shine. Cheap just means slightly more crude than a fancy model. The electricity shoved through the metal is still of the same "quality" as an expensive welder. Really depends on the operator. There are welders that could do more with a hobo freight welder that I could do with a brand new miller. don't underestimate the machines ability. It will make a wrench just fine.

I don't know of a write up just on an AC swap. I am sure someone here has an epic build of some sort where they put it into a non AC truck. From what I know it should be a plug and play swap, IF you have all the components. However I don't have any first hand experience that says for sure. Might help to start a tech thread on it. Seems like things get more views there.

Step one: buy most rusty mj you can find. Step two: dash swap the 2 trucks Step three: THIS IS THE IMPORTANT ONE!! Don't do this.

Donor. Came from a parted xj. I'll look in the electric manual. Didn't think about it for some reason.

if you get everything you could. keep in mind you'll need the entire heater box too

I have all my cruise components installed but it won't engage. All the info I'm finding says to connect the amc tester to test function of the module. Is there a way to test it without said tool?

I spy a good passenger side wheel well....