Minuit

There's 2 ways to replace a fusebox and neither are fun. One way is to cut the fusebox out of your harness and splice the new one in as is one wire at a time. The other is to remove all of the terminals from the fusebox (they're crimped on to the individual wires), replace the bad ones and reinstall them into the new fusebox, again one at a time so you don't mix anything up. Or of course you could replace the whole dash harness which is even more of a headache. There isn't an easy way. If you're going to replace one yourself, make sure it's from an automatic vehicle since automatics don't have a clutch master cylinder to leak brake fluid onto the fuse box. I cut that one out of a 1990 XJ at the junkyard the other day. Every 1993 (not sure about 1992) on up XJ I've seen has a slightly different box with numbered positions. The box in the 91 is similar but slightly different (for example, no hazard/brake light fuse - it's directly wired to the battery on the 91) but I assume the Renix years are all the same.

Don't need one anymore, got it from the junkyard.

Nope, I'm an idiot. Thought you were talking about the old style bumpers (84-96 all the same) - you know, MJs.

"running when we parked it" Do it.

Grab a 28mm factory sway bar and put poly bushings on it and the end links. Some V8 ZJs and high trim XJs have them (although I got mine off a base XJ - only way to tell for sure is to measure). That stiffened up the 91 pretty nicely even though I still haven't mounted a rear sway bar yet.

:bowdown:

I still think we need a dedicated section for this kind of thing...

:eek: that's a good deal. I paid $125 a corner for mine in 235/75/15.

Thermostat housing? I've heard them called that before. If that's the case the gasket can be a PITA to get right without leaks.

:agree: The only problem I've had with the Dorman part is the fact that it's a Dorman part and I'm surprised it even fit. Did it about 2 years ago and have had it off multiple times since.

The fusebox in my '89 is all screwed up from clutch fluid. I need another one. Needs to be from an automatic vehicle. None of the junkyards around me have anything old enough. Bonus points if it's from an '89. Shipping will be to 38401.

If members of the notoriously cheap-@$$ ComancheClub are praising a $300 shifter, it must be good.

A quick look suggests the temp senders are the same between 1984-1987 and 1988-1991. The early and late senders look exactly the same to me, so I assume the reason for the change is the slightly different temp gauges. You'll want to run the early model sender for accurate readings on your different gauge - assuming I'm right about the difference between the two. If you run the correct sender for a 1990 truck I imagine the gauge will indicate 220 when the actual temp is 210.

Renix and pre-Renix clusters had a blue case, HO had a white case. That style seems to have gone away by the middle of the '87 model year, so your cluster came from somewhere between '84 and '87.5 or so. Easily my favorite of all the XJ/MJ gauge clusters. I want to put one in my '89 bad, but I'd need a different speedo cable...

Do not drive that truck on the road ever again. One of your leaf springs is almost ready to make a break for it, and when (not if) it does, you'll kill or maim someone. The uniframe looks like it's about ready to break in half anyway. That thing is a deathtrap. It's too far gone to even think about repairing.

Surely the real SCs have "Street Comanche" spelled correctly on the dash?

If you're talking about the rectangle shaped thing that's the expansion valve at the firewall where the evaporator's lines come out.

No big, it was a pretty easy fix [emoji106] I'm certainly planning on giving this ride the love it deserves! Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk

Thanks guys :thumbsup:

1989 ENGINE & PERFORMANCE: Stock engine and transmission. Volvo fuel injectors added by previous owner. DRIVETRAIN: 2 wheel drive. AX-15 manual transmission, open differential Dana 35 rear axle. COOLING: Open cooling system conversion with standard single-core radiator and factory 2.5L overflow tank. Heater control valve deleted. ELECTRICAL & IGNITION: Stock with significant repairs. Stock replacement ignition components. Fusebox replaced due to clutch master cylinder damage. STEERING: Stock; most parts replaced with standard replacements. SUSPENSION: Stock; most parts replaced with standard replacements. INTERIOR: Mixed bag; Cordovan dash, door panels, kick panels, B-pillars, and lower sill trim. All other parts Charcoal. Final interior color undecided. Factory rubber floor with blown original speakers. AMC RX-135 radio. AIR CONDITIONING: Stay tuned! BRAKES: Front and rear disc brakes. Stock with new rear drum components. LIGHTING: Relay-controlled headlamps with Hella H4 composite housings. Factory retrofit fog lights, wired in stock configuration. WHEELS/TIRES: 15x7 Jeep "Gambler" wheels with 235/75/R15 Cooper Discoverer A/T3 tires. Build Threads: 2012-2016, owned by relyt120 2016 - present, owned by Minuit

A New Friend!: April-May 2016 I haven't done a lot of stuff with the recently, mostly small things: I put on the 3D printed seat tilt bezels strokermjcomanche sells. I like 'em a lot, even without paint. I think I'll keep them black, it blends well with the other interior trim. Those stupid roll pins are a huge pain to get out. Hammering a nail into them and pulling it out seems to be the best way. I put on a new Mopar fan shroud (yes, you can still get these new) - I just broke the 2nd cheap aftermarket one in 3 years. The Mopar version is more expensive, but hopefully it'll last longer than 6 months. These are a lot less painful to swap if you take off the upper core support. I also swapped the electric fan for an 8-blade one from a '96 XJ. The '95-'96 fan uses the same connector as the Renix or early HO fan but pulls more air. Quieter too. Of course, the manual control I hooked up earlier works just fine with the new fan. I figured I needed at least something to break up the front end. Why not rep Team Mopar? Thanks for no electrical problems! Speaking of electrical problems, the '91 made a new friend! The '89 of many colors used to belong to TN bro relyt120. I got a new project (with 3 pedals too!), the truck got a new home, and relyt120 got his driveway back. Everyone wins! The '89 came with some goodies the '91 will be benefitting from, including a drop-in Duraliner bedliner: This one blocks the tie-downs at the corners of the bed and needs to be removed every so often to clean the bed underneath, but I'm willing to accept that to keep the still somewhat clean bed protected. Looks pretty nice too and can be taken off in about 15 minutes if needed. The addition of the '89 won't change anything with the approach I'm taking to the '91. The '91 still has unconditional first priority on all parts and maintenance, and will still be getting the lion's share of the upgrades. Besides, the '89 makes this one seem like a Town Car by comparison. However, the '89 runs cool so it'll probably get more miles until either the weather cools down a bit or I solve the '91's warm running problems.

I just thought I'd bring some closure to this stupid thread. I'm now the owner of a manual MJ and couldn't be happier.

Thanks a lot Buck! The first thing I'm tackling is some screwy wiring, which doesn't make for the most interesting updates. For sure it'll be a different style than I did on the '91. More detailed procedures and less "I did these things, now look at some pictures" type of updates.

Codename Bumblebee: Continued A currently quite short build thread by Minuit I've been looking for a second project for some time. My silver '91 has been my daily driver for years and is at the point where it's getting hard to call it a project truck. If you've been keeping track of this truck's previous build thread, you'll know that this truck's previous owner, relyt120, never got a chance to do much with it and recently needed to sell it. Coincidentally he put it up for sale at the exact time I happened to have both the means to buy it and the time to work on it! Not only that, but I'd had my eyes on a manual vehicle of some sort. The previous owners (with the exception of relyt120) have been unkind and downright neglectful to this truck, and it needs a lot of love. However, the most important things are in place - to get it up to snuff I have a lot of small things to do, and some major surgery is needed. Here are the specs: 1989, short bed, Renix 4.0, AX-15 internal slave, open D35 rear end, ~150,000 miles. Let me be clear: I'm very much aware I have a lot of work to do, but I know what I'm doing and I'll do things right The Good: - It has the AX-15, and it shifts very well - The engine, while noisy, runs fairly well. - Besides the floor pan, it's almost completely rust free. The body on this truck except for the floor pan is in some ways better than the '91. - It's a Comanche! - I got it for a very good price. - It has a number of upgrades already done, including bucket seats, switched electric fan controls, Volvo fuel injectors, and upgraded grounds. - It theoretically has air conditioning. - I got tons of parts with it, including two Comanche interiors. - It has a surprisingly soft ride. - It's a blank canvas for whatever I want to do to it. Unlike the '91 I don't feel any obligation to keep it original. The Less Good: - Electrical issues abound, including non-functional reverse lights, brake lights(!!!), and a completely nonresponsive instrument cluster. - The engine sounds like hell and makes barely acceptable as of January 2019, zero as of May 2019, barely acceptable oil pressure. - The driver side floor pan and some of the transmission tunnel is rusted through likely due to a long ignored clutch fluid leak. I have a patch panel for the driver side floor. - The front end is in need of work. The truck has a significant front end shimmy - not quite death wobble, but definitely something is very loose. - It has massive vacuum and exhaust leaks. - Renix Cooling System. 'Nuff said. The pressure bottle of course leaks and a replacement has already been ordered. - The windshield is toast. - It's mind bendingly hideous. - The parking brake is missing. The Plan (more detail in Post 14): - Fix brake lights before I drive it on the road again - Fix all critical electrical circuits: brake lights, gauges, reverse lights. - Replace the Renix pressure bottle. - Re-install the interior. - Refresh front suspension. as of August 2019, done... more or less. - Repair the driver side floor. - Convert cooling system to the open loop High Output version. as of September 2019, it's been thoroughly de-Renix'd. - Turn the truck a single color, with chrome trim. - Air conditioning! Edit 12/2/16: Unlike my other build thread, the OP will be updated continuously and serve as a summary of my progress.

That was the goal :thumbsup: