shelbyluvv

Oh and pull the engine from the front. Cherry Pickers don't like to move sideways with a 400 pound engine 4 feet in the air.

It'll come out if you take the radiator and header panel off. You pretty much have to take them off to get the engine out. No sense in risking punching a hole in the radiator or cracking the header panel.

Short bed sliders are needed. Nates 4X4 makes long bed sliders and I love the look of them. I've been waiting patiently for him to make swb sliders. Still hasn't happened. There is a market for them. I surely won't be cutting the rockers out of either of my trucks.

How have you been Rich?

That's a 5.3 not a 350. Big difference in simple swap doing that. Simple swap would be a 350/700r4/231 with TBI injection. If you want simple and fast throw a bone yard 4.0 in it and build your engine into a stoker. A stroker is not to be rushed.

Chaffed wires by the brake pedal, corrosion in the brake light switch, corrosion in the tail light sockets or bad ground behind the driver side tail light.

Advanced Adapters sells mounts. No need to got custom mounts made. I lived in the desert and never once had my rig overheat. If yours is getting hot you have other problems besides the radiator. Probably sludge build up of dirty coolant passages. So you want to spend $2500+ on a stroker? I don't see the logic there either. You can get an entire running chevy truck for less than $1000. Throw in the mounts and knick nacks to do the V8 conversion and you are looking at about another $600. I don't like strokers. They cost too much and unless you get them perfect they blow up way too easy. A 350 is damn near indestructible. Your truck, your money. Good luck with what ever you decide to do.

There will be no firewall modifications required or custom mounts and plating required. The cooling issue is from clowns trying to retain the factory radiator. A aluminum 3 core will keep it cool. You won't need the RENIX ECU if you do a TBI swap. You have a lot of bad information about the SBC swap. The trans issue is not that bad either. Chevys use a drivers side drop transfer.

I don't know what that is. That is not factory in any way. It looks like someone tried to make some type of overload setup. Remove it

Check the intake for vacuum leaks

Truck is looking good. You don't have to "quote" yourseld every time you post. Just type and hit post button.

I think it would have been easier to start with something like that when I did my 97 conversion. It would save a LOT of time.

Do you have pics of the rear flares after the shave? What did you use to smooth them out? I'm debating doing the same or running rear flares on the front to allow for a bigger tire.

Three of those pics are the exact same one with the name changed on the sign.

Onyx moving her engine home.

She was running good but had a hesitation at part throttle and the CEL kept popping on. I checked the code and it was 51. I replaced the o2 sensor and all was well. A day later CEL and code 51 returned. I knew there had to be other issues. I checked the wiring to the sensor and it was good. I then checked the wiring on the top of the engine and we had a problem. The exhaust manifold flange had melted the injector harness. I pulled off all the melted plastic and tape. I discovered the o2 sensor wires and an injector wire were fused together. I repaired the wires and taped everything back up and wrapped the harness in heavy duty Reynolds Wrap. Fired her up and took her for a spin. The hesitation was gone and no more CEL. My daughter and I took a test ride to the Alabama state line and back and the truck performed flawlessly. She was even pulling down 21 mpg at 60 mph. it averaged 16.8mpg in mixed city/hwy driving. Today I decided to steal the 28MM sway bar from Betty. I have been driving Onyx for months without one. All I can say is WOW! What a drastic improvement in handling a sway bar makes. I'll never run without one again.

Stick around here. Wranglerforum is a joke and unless you can find a local Jeep board you will have to deal with all the Tards on other forums. Most of us here have a vast knowledge of Jeeps. I had a 05 LJ that I lost in a divorce. The one thing on the newer 4.0s is keep an ear open for the oil pump drive to start squeaking. When it fails it will take out the engine with it.

It's normal. The compression will leak down and allow it to roll. There is a reason why there are parking BRAKES and you are instructed to turn your front wheels into the curb when parking on a hill.

Looks fine to me

Got mine also!

I got DW towing Onyx home with a lifted WJ on a tow dolly once. I was running about 65 mph when it happened. I needed to change my skivies after that one!

http://comancheclub.com/topic/11232-project-onyx/page-13 Here is where the install is. You will need to move the emergency brake equalizer to the passenger side about 3" to clear the tank.

Yes I did. I have a 4.5" lift and needed to buy a 3" thick driveshaft to clear the tank. It is REALLY close to the rear diff at full flex. I also made my own tank brackets and used Astrovan tank straps. There is a pretty decent write up in my build thread.

Search youtube for automan's channel. Rob has a bunch loaded.

Make them the same lenght on both sides. You will have weird caster angles if you don't. I use a big pipe wrech on the long tube and a jack on the end of the wrench handle to rotate the axle into place.