shelbyluvv

I think a XJ sender was longer than the TJ one and would not close enough to get it in the tank. That is why I went with the TJ sender and cluster. It's been a loooooong time since I built the truck so things may be fuzzy in my memory. You wouldn't believe me if I told you what I used to connect the fill tube to the tank... I cut a runner out of a stock exhaust manifold and it fit perfectly from the filler neck, through the frame and onto the tank.

I have a TJ tank in my truck and it works well. There are guys who use Dakota tanks also. GenRight sells an adapter ring and it costs about $150.

The XJ tank is way to wide to fit between the rail and the driveshaft. The slosh pan won't let the pump sit in the tank correctly. You can remove it with some careful prying or just pick up a 86 V6 tank without the pan. I had a ring from Copperhead Fab that I sold.

I think pretty much everything you said is wrong and for that I edited your post...

:cheers: I like the way this turned out.

Like they say. A picture is worth a 1000 words. Pics are always better than trying to figure out what someone is trying to explain over the internet.

It sounds like they are the "pads" off the tips of the shift fork. They probably just wore out from the Center Axle Disconnect (CAD) being locked over. You can go to a junk yard and just pull a nused fork and replace yours.

Throttle Body Injection. The TBI is a basic FI setup. It is OBD-I and is a very simple design. I did a TBI swap on a CJ using a Howell kit and it was easy as hell. The Howell kit is basically off the shelf GM parts using a PROM burnt by them. I know the 2.8 came factory with the TBI setup on S-10s. It would be much easier to swap in a OBD-I TBI setup over a SFI. The SFI is really complicated and will require a lot of tuning of the PROMs to get it right.

Are you sure it is SFI and not TBI? EDIT: after checking the internet I see they are SFI. I have never done a full on SFI swap but I am pretty good with fuel injection in general. At a minimum you will need the wiring, ECU, fuel pump and the complete engine. I would also buy the correct FSMs for both vehicles. More than likely you will have to re-pin your bulkhead connector to run the fuel pump and computer. I would toss the SFI and go TBI.

The drive shafts won't work. The front will be to long and the rear will be to short. The 4.0/AW4/231 combo will be way longer than your 2.5/ax4 setup. You will have to find MJ Shafts or get the donor shafts modified.

Whoa! What? You can't come in here and just drop that and walk away Paul!

4 door

You should remove the CPS for the simple fact they are easily damaged when pulling a trans or engine.

The AW4 won't bolt up to a 2.5 without a new bell housing. The drive shafts will not work either.

I'm still in for one but need a few weeks. Onyx just blew up on me so I need to get her sorted out first.

Strokers just don't make financial sense to me. If I'm going to spend $2000 on a engine it is going to be a V8.

Well she finally died. I knew it was coming eventually. I've been daily driving her since July with no oil pressure and a nasty rattle. I got a little spirited on the way home from work tonight and kept her at about 75 mph for a few miles. When I pulled in the driveway she was missing and the rattle was now a full blown knock. Oh well I will order new lifters and gaskets for my $20 engine and she'll be running like a dream again.

Mine was the fuel pump ballast getting hot and killing the pump.

It probably wasn't seated right and when you hit a bump it settled into it's spot leaving the bolts loose. Or you need a new torque wrench.

You can also talk to any good drag racer for scales. There are ways to do it using bathroom scales and wood. I'll let you google that. You don't want to start messing with weight distribution until your truck is almost ready for the track. Depending on which series you are running will dictate how you set the truck up. Your cage, battery, fuel tank and motor placement will all effect the weight bias. A WJ axle is not a bolt in. The control arm mounts are in different locations and will not work without modifying either the truck or the axle. You're better off just swapping a beam from a 2WD X/MJ in there and then doing the WJ knuckle swap for the bigger brakes. Most sanctioning bodies will not allow any type of wheel spacer on the track. DON'T USE THEM! They are not designed for the side loads a track can induce and will shear off.

When my stereo was acting up I pulled new wires from the head unit to all the speakers. I have a Kenwood deck as well. I just spliced into the power and memory wires in the dash to power it. My stereo sounds better now as well. My 86 does not have the rear speakers either so I had to pull wires for it also. I see no reason to get all wrapped up in the lack of factory wiring when a spool of speaker wire is cheap and takes all of the 20+ year old wiring issues out of the picture. You have to remove the B pillar plastic. the cover does not come off.

It has to be a 3.7 if it's a V6 or a 4.7 if it's a V8. I'm not getting into the 3./4.7 debate. I like them, others don't. Mine were dependable and still are, others say they suck. Good luck!

Go to a different alignment shop ASAP. They don't know what they're doing. http://www.cherokeetalk.com/forum/f8/there-caster-adjustment-xj-12836/ http://jeep-xj.info/HowtoAlignment.htm

Thanks for the pics Jerry. I have sent them to Spencer @ www.jeepsticker.com and hopefully he can reproduce them. Bo

No Ben, blue isn't going to happen. Two door Don!