Keyav8r

My 91 Eliminator came stock with the 10 hole aluminum wheels. When I bought the truck from Rich he advised that he couldn't get them cleaned up enough to look good so he put on a set of new Pacers that look very similar. The spare is mounted on one of the original 10 hole aluminum rims. The trucks I've seen with the 10 hole rims look good to me. I like the Pacers because (a) they're new and don't have curb rash/dents/scars, (b) full set of center caps, and © they look really good and clean up easily.

I cannot believe anyone would even suggest that Bob might have any ulterior motives in his selfless offer to store the stroker. I also felt the urge to reach out to a fellow member and offer what aid I could during what I'm sure may be a stressful time. It is obvious that the logistics would be much easier for Bob to help a friend out. However, I stand ready to step up and take on stewardship of the stroker if Bob should be unable to accept the burden.

Forgot to mention - use Never-Sieze on the O2 threads, the EGR tube nuts and threads, and the downpipe studs (might as well use it on the manifold studs/bolts also). Getting the EGR tube back on took some time. There will be some variation in the exact location of the fittings on the old intake and the new exhaust so it may be hard to get it lined up correctly and the nuts started without cross threading. I didn' t think of this when I did mine, but if you leave the manifold bolts/studs a little loose it may be easier to get the EGR tube on. Use a small wire brush (Harbor Freight special) to clean the threads inside the nuts and on the manifold fittings then coat all of them with Never-sieze before you install the tube. Do NOT try to bend it to fit. It is 30 years old and has gone through thousands of cold/hot/cold cycles and may be brittle.

It's amazing what you can do under the influence of mind-altering drugs!

I replaced the exhaust manifold on my 88 MJ with a NOS manifold. The gasket is one piece for intake and exhaust, but that doesn't really matter much as the same bolts/studs hold both manifolds to the head. It is not what you would call real fun. You can do it alone but when you are bolting everything back up an extra set of hands will help a lot. Park the truck and hit all the bolts and studs, the downpipe studs and nuts, the O2 sensor and the EGR tube (both ends) with PB Blaster and let it soak overnight. Then hit again the next day while you are taking the power steering pump bracket off the engine. Get the O2 sensor and the EGR tube off before you unbolt the manifolds. Since you are replacing the manifold, and should replace the O2 sensor at the same time, it won't matter much if you round off the O2 sensor and/or twist off the downpipe studs butit will make it easier to get the manifold off if you can unbolt these things. It is important that you get the EGR tube off in one piece because don't AFAIK a new EGR tube is not available from parts stores. Could be wrong about that, but I don't think so. My job was made easier as I replaced the downpipe when I replaced the manifold (actually, replaced the whole exhaust system). So I can't comment on whether you can get the old manifold off and the new one on without removing the downpipe. Other than the above, all I can tell you is that it's a lot of wrenching, saying unkind things about automotive engineers and MJs in general, and the occasional busted knuckle. I highly recommend a good pair of mechanic's gloves and taking your time. If you get frustrated, slide out from under the truck, get a cool drink, rest a few minutes and then go at it again. It's not the worst repair job I've ever done, but it's in the upper percentile. BTW, while you've got the manifold and downpipe out of the way, it's a good time to replace the motor mounts if you haven't done that.

That's not the first Cadillac converter reference on the forum, but still ROFLMAO!

Call Advance Auto or NAPA and ask them if they show the plug gap for the vehicle the engine came from.

Finally got them in the mail. If you think they're worth it you could mail $6 to cover the postage. Fred Key 7521 Carriage Cove Trussville, AL 35173

Thanks, Don. As soon as I figure out how to contort my body to get my head under the dash I'll get a count on the wires and try plugging in the module. Seems to be a tad less room inside the MJ than in my Silverado. May have to take the seat out to get in there.

I'm with Don. I'd like two in any color. Both of mine are gone.

Rats! I knew it couldn't be that easy. I currently have two speeds. But, the wiper switch on the turn signal stalk has three points at which the wipers operate. On the first two settings the wipers work continually at low speed. Turning to the third setting puts them in high speed. There are three or four smaller lines between the first and second operating points. I was thinking, maybe those small lines indicate intermittent operation if I had the module to plug in (which I do). So, what else do I need?

Are the intermittent wiper and headlight delay modules the same for all years?

Haven't forgot you, just been real busy at work. I have them in my truck. Now I need to get them in a heavy envelope and take them to the post office. Hope to do that by the end of the week.

If your speedometer gear is okay and the end of the cable is engaged in the gear, then you need to check the cable to make sure it is not broken, and then check to make sure the cable is engaged at the speedometer. To check both of these, you'll have to pull the gauge cluster. Before you try to remove the cluster, there is a clip on the engine side of the firewall that you should remove to get some slack in the cab. As you pull the cluster from the dash, push the cable into the cab until you have enough space to get your hand to the cable connection at the back of the cluster. If your 87 is like my 88 it has a plastic connector at the speedometer end of the cable (somebody correct this if I'm wrong about the connector). The plastic is 26 years old and it IS BRITTLE. Use a mirror to see how it is retained and then remove it. Now you can check the cable by turning one end and having another person observe whether the other end turns. If it doesn't turn, replace it. If it does, check the speedometer by inserting a square shank into the speedometer (file a nail down to fit if you don't have a square shank of the right size). Spin the shank and see if the needle moves. I can't remember which it should turn, so try both ways. If the needle moves, the speedometer is probably okay and your problem may be that the cable was not engaged at the speedometer. If it doesn't move, you may have a bad speedometer. Reconnect the cable, making sure the square end of the cable is inserted into the speedometer and the connector is secure on the speedometer hub. After the cluster is installed back in the dash, refasten the cable clip on the firewall but push the cable towards the cluster a little to help keep it connected. Then reconnect the cable at the transmission/transfer case, again making sure the end of the cable is engaging into the gear.

A little off-topic, but I've been listening to the The Three Musketeers on CD. In one part there was a thing about a family ring the had been "disgraced" by having been worn by a dishonest woman and could not be worn by any worthy person. The remedy was to pawn it and then redeem it . Having passed through the hands of another person, the ring was cleansed of the disgrace and once again worthy. That era was rife with superstition and, truth be told, there's still a lot of superstition alive today. Don't let a black cat cross your path, don't walk under a ladder, don't open an umbrella indoors, seven years of bad luck if you break a mirror, if you spill salt - throw some of it over your shoulder, if you find a penny face up you'll have good luck, etc.

The whole system appears to be built by hand, including the connector pins for the drag chain that he made during the video. Over here we would use a gas or diesel driven pump. It's good to see there's still some ingenuity somewhere in the world. You might think that was in some primitive third world country until you see the late model car parked on the road behind the ditch. Yeah, I know the original post was about the background music. Slap me on the wrist for thread- jacking.

There are two MJs in Colorado that Jim doesn't own? Must be tourists.

Read my post again. PM your address and I'll mail one to you, if I can find where I carefully stored them.

If the oil is above and around the starter, the leak is more likely from above rather than from the rms. i would look at the valve cover gasket first as oil will leak and run down the block. Check the back of the valve cover gasket, the distributor o-ring, the oil filter adapter o-rings and the oil pressure sensor. I'd eliminate these first as they are much easier fixes than dropping the pan for a rms change.

Someone needs to snap that one up. It's one of those rare 4.0 V6 MJs!

No JYs in OR? If I have an extra I'll mail it to you. PM me tomorrow.

Old topic, but I just got my tag notices and both MJs (88 & 91) are $29.80. When I registered the 91 in June I paid the title transfer fee, the AL sales taxes, etc. and that was around $90.00. I've had the 88 over a year, but don't remember the cost of getting it registered. both were out of state titles. I hope the future tag renewals will stay in that $29 range, but I should have only the 91 when they come due again.

89 with a BA10 transmission? I thought they were AX-15 after 88. Maybe an early 89?

Fantastic, Don. Congratulations to both daughters, and their Mom and you for giving them the guidance, inspiration and encouragement to succeed. And, thanks to them for their service to our country.

Saw a red SWB MJ with a roll bar traveling South on I-59 near the airport this AM. Looked like original paint. It was in another lane in traffic so I couldn't get a good look at it. Does this truck belong to a club member?