ftpiercecracker1

Figured it out, will post more later.

Something tells me OP will probably not have the tools/funds to much if any of those things.

Like I always say, earl is earl. :yes:

What is your budget? I would recommend some heavy duty (metric ton) leaf springs from Hell Creek suspensions.

ATF in the t-case? I have generic gear oil in mine, shaffers for my ax-15.

Nice. Whats the biggest flag you can make? I would like to see one like this but 4x as big, stretch it a little and make it either black with white logo or white with black logo.

$2.65 here in mid tn, but thats for E10 (10% max ethanol) 100% gas (0% ethanol) is still $3.25, but less is less i suppose. Enjoying it while it lasts!! :thumbsup:

What do you mean the passenger side is correct for both sides?? Yea there really isnt much to them. All the stuff you mentioned is what came in my hardware kit, but it also included new pins for the shoe keeper springs . . . . . . . . which broke. All the replacement parts are stock parts.

Just finished swapping a Chrys 8.25 for my D35. Difficult as it was, everything went more or less as expected, but now i have issue with the E brake. I was under the impression that the E brake functioned just like a normal drum brake, which means you need to adjust it until it drags slightly. I did exactly this, but when i tried to drive it, i made it 20ft before i felt/heard a minor clunk and the rear brakes drug heavily, one side locked up entirely. :eek: Does anyone have a pic of an 8.25 with discs? I want to make sure i have everything assembled correctly, especially the mechanism that actuates the E-brake. After loosening the E-brake significantly i can now drive around without the E brake suddenly hanging, but now i have another problem, actually a previous problem just made worse. With the brakes so loose my fancy new handbrake is almost useless. Even though it is extremely difficult to pull, it does very little to hold the truck. It does work, but you have to use two hands to pull it up far enough for it to do anything. I have it adjusted properly and every thing in the rear is new (rotors, hardward, shoes, pads, cables, the works) I know what the problem is, but i don't know how to solve it. In the new hardware kit i ordered came new springs, but the spring that keeps the shoes in place after you disengage the E-brake is absurdly/idiotically/ludicrously strong, i still don't know how i managed to get it into place. I think the answer is to source a slightly less stout spring, sound good? On a related note, I am really upset with the quality of the parts that came in hardware kit. Along with the spring i mentioned the brake shoe keeper clips were also so stiff they were near impossible to use and two of the little pins that go through the keeper clips (see pic below) broke. One immediately after it was installed and the other the day after install. It contributed to the E-brake locking up suddenly, super dangerous. CLIFF NOTES: Image of hardware setup for 8.25 with disc brakes, emphasis on E-brake acuator arm. How to adjust E-brake on 8.25 with disc brakes? E-brake does next to nothing because new spring is to strong. Can i just replace it with weaker spring? FPC.

Just finishing up my hand brake swap. My hand brake came from a 2000 XJ, i prefer its design and i did not need to fabricate a second bracket. I did have to hack the bracket under the bed to pieces, but it will work great once its all together. I will have quite an update on my build page once this is all over with.

Driving home from Murfreesboro last night was downright harrowing. We got caught right smack in the worst of it, but our might little Tercel wagon shrugged it off like it was nothin. :thumbsup: 50mph side winds and all. Funny thing is when we got home, woodbury, just 20 miles away all was quite, still raining a good bit, but that was it. No high winds, downed trees, power outages, tornadoes, overturned cars, burning buildings. According to the radar Nashville got absolutely slammed.

30psi +/- 1 is where its supposed to be, so your in good shape. When was its last tune up? Its amazing what a fresh tune up can do for the performance. Are you aware of the CPS and how to test it? If you want to keep your Renix engine happy, do yourself a favor and go through each and every one of these tips. :thumbsup: http://comancheclub.com/topic/36382-cruisers-renix-tips/

Looks like a solid little truck. :thumbsup: What part of FL is PCB in? I am moving (back) down to Ft. Pierce this month.

The farther out the better. I am thinking late summer July/August

Ya its got some rust, but come on man, its a 92 :eek: . Those trucks don't just come around everyday. I agree 1800 is to much, but i also have to agree with the seller that 500 is to low. Negotiating is one thing but a low ball like that, right off the bat? :no: Just my opinion. Pics help, but without being there i can't really say, but i could see paying 800-1000 Whats the mileage? Since when does the heater core have anything to do with the a/c? The heater core and the evaporator are two totally independent units.

A bench vice and a socket or even better a bearing press.

Dude . .. just stop. I'm turning into a zucchini i am so green with envy. :D Really digging how you've got all the switches setup, very professional/clean looking. It was quite ingenious of you to re-purpose that central vent as a switch board. I bet that thing is unstoppable off-road.

Just got a set of their MT springs the other day. :thumbsup: I will be installing them tomorrow. Will report back with data, but i will also be swapping in a chry 8.25 at the same time, so numbers will be slightly off.

Under what jurisdiction does that law fall under, state, federal? :hmm: I recently discovered that my cat is hollow, but i live in an area with no emissions, soooooo . . . . :dunno:

What exactly "seat-of-the-pants" difference did you notice on a stock engine? I suppose i spoke a little bit hasty, since my engine is pretty modified already. But even with the mods, i did notice a crisper throttle response and maybe a bit of acceleration. No, i don't have hard numbers to back this up, only my tried and (sometimes) true butt dyno. You can't deny the factory renix TB is a significant choke point. ;)

Nothing i suppose, for the regular dude they are just fine. But, for those who off-road more seriously; since your tires don't move perfectly straight up and down when flexing, shocks that are mounted similarly would not be as effective as shocks mounted at a slight inward angle.

Is she running bigger tires, heavily offset rims, or wheel spacers? All these things put additional stress and leverage onto the wheel bearings. I assume the feeling your talking about is a rough/course feel as the bearing spins, yes? I am quite surprised to hear you are having such trouble with the Timken units.

This is the exact thing i have been wondering myself. I too have an 8.25 freshly stripped and ready to swap, but don't know where to place the axle shock mounts. After a bit of reading, it seems the most effective position for shocks to be in, is directly parallel to the path of travel that is going absorbed. More or less a perpendicular line from the axle to the frame. However this might not be as conducive for those of us who take out trucks offroad, not to mention the fact that the factory shock angle is already tilted backwards at 35* or so. Supposedly once your shocks reach a 45* angle they loss 50% of their dampening effectiveness. Are you trying for a double angle? Angling the shocks both towards each other and backwards or are you just going to manipulate one angle? Looking forward to what others have to say. FPC. EDIT: I had another two paragraphs typed out and accidentally hit refresh. Thought i was going to cry. . . :cry: Here's the short and sweet. don't angle the shocks backwards or forwards the axle dosent move in either direction so there would be nothing to gain. Depending on the level of flexing you do, angle the shocks towards each other / \ and mount them so that they can pivot around an axis. Think about the direction the tire is traveling when it flexes and the path of the shock as it compresses/droops, as for the mounting think about double shear track bars and how they allow for greater flexibility. FPC.

I have personally ordered from leigh and can give a good report. I ordered one of his 62mm HO units and currently run it on my rig. From what i can remember shipping time was reasonable. I think i had to send the core in before he sent the product, but i can't remember, its been awhile. Another thing, he guarantees his TBs never to whistle, apparently its very common for bored out TB to whistle. Mine does and did from the start. However, it is a very narrow window. Yes it is loud and annoying when it whistles, but its such a small window that i can usually avoid it without much effort. I did consider sending it back for exhange, but i needed the truck to get to work, i didnt really follow his recommended install procedure, and it didnt bother me all that much, so i said screw it and left it alone. Cliff notes: Leigh is a good guy with good products IMHO, a bored TB is worth the investment You will notice a seat-of-the-pants difference FPC, out.