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Found 2 results

  1. Hello, so I’m looking for some guidance on a 8.25 swap. I’ve searched about every keyword on this Forum and can’t find anything in detail. what are the measurements on where my spring perches and shock mounts need to be? Or what’s the best method to find these measurements, I want to make sure I’m doing it right the first time. TIA
  2. Just finished swapping a Chrys 8.25 for my D35. Difficult as it was, everything went more or less as expected, but now i have issue with the E brake. I was under the impression that the E brake functioned just like a normal drum brake, which means you need to adjust it until it drags slightly. I did exactly this, but when i tried to drive it, i made it 20ft before i felt/heard a minor clunk and the rear brakes drug heavily, one side locked up entirely. :eek: Does anyone have a pic of an 8.25 with discs? I want to make sure i have everything assembled correctly, especially the mechanism that actuates the E-brake. After loosening the E-brake significantly i can now drive around without the E brake suddenly hanging, but now i have another problem, actually a previous problem just made worse. With the brakes so loose my fancy new handbrake is almost useless. Even though it is extremely difficult to pull, it does very little to hold the truck. It does work, but you have to use two hands to pull it up far enough for it to do anything. I have it adjusted properly and every thing in the rear is new (rotors, hardward, shoes, pads, cables, the works) I know what the problem is, but i don't know how to solve it. In the new hardware kit i ordered came new springs, but the spring that keeps the shoes in place after you disengage the E-brake is absurdly/idiotically/ludicrously strong, i still don't know how i managed to get it into place. I think the answer is to source a slightly less stout spring, sound good? On a related note, I am really upset with the quality of the parts that came in hardware kit. Along with the spring i mentioned the brake shoe keeper clips were also so stiff they were near impossible to use and two of the little pins that go through the keeper clips (see pic below) broke. One immediately after it was installed and the other the day after install. It contributed to the E-brake locking up suddenly, super dangerous. CLIFF NOTES: Image of hardware setup for 8.25 with disc brakes, emphasis on E-brake acuator arm. How to adjust E-brake on 8.25 with disc brakes? E-brake does next to nothing because new spring is to strong. Can i just replace it with weaker spring? FPC.
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