Jeep Driver

http://westky.craigslist.org/pts/5054494448.html

This.

Shocks are in the exact same position.

Nice truck!

I understand. I know that some guys will use spring compressors to swap springs......... I have a desire to keep my front teeth and jaw bone intact. That said, I would use them in the future to relieve enough pressure to adjust the ACOS.........but not to swap. It's worth the work in my opinion to disconnect the axle entirely to swap springs.

Snap the bolt off, drill out to accept a larger bolt. Fish bolt down from top, use lock washer. I made up my own bar-pin eliminators in about 20 minutes with some 3/16x1.5 bar stock. Zap it with an impact. Use MJ stock rear shocks. Never look back.

I will also add- I have replace the springs on the MJ with OME, and the springs on the XJ with Moogs. The MJ now about 5-6 months ago and the XJ about 3 months ago. Both with Bilsteins. The ride is not comparable, not even close, the XJ is soft and slushy......GARBAGE! but I thought is was saving a few bucks....huge mistake. And yes, the 5100/5125s for the money will provide an EXCELLENT ride.

I HIGHLY recommend the OME springs. Along with the ACOS will net you 3". The ACOS will allow you to regain your 3" if and when you install a bumper and wench. Also if you want to gain another inch or more later......matter of minutes to adjust verses HOURS! I've tried.......you'll need to disconnect the control arms to drop the axle to replace the springs. You'll also need an adjustable track bar, I like my JKS.

Bells are the same.

Wow.

That is a program for hitches that have not YET been developed. IOWs if you just bought a redesigned 2016 Denali that Uhaul has not developed a hitch for......you can be the guinea pig. Seriously doubt anyone is getting a free hitch for a Comanche.

Ultra Black only at the joints/4 corners.....just a dab. Prime the pump with a drill....remove the distributor........it you want to do it right. Band- Image Not Found

If I had the money........ http://www.vancopbs.com/category_s/121.htm

Image Not Found Image Not Found Now I have a recovery point that I can trust. I also like the idea of something a little more substantial up front connecting the unibody I have the Warrior bumper on order and the Bushwacker flares, air dam is gone by the wayside anyway.

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Good condition please. Will travel or pay shipping. jeepmurphy@gmail.com

I reclocked mine, easy to do and does not require you beating the $#!& out of your truck.

Ongoing list of parts replaced and approx costs- Original purchase- $2500 Purchase of donor, '94 XJ, $500 Initial front end parts purchase from Rockauto, included KYB shocks, Moog steering parts and track bar and UCAs and LCAs, $430 Replaced LCAs with NAPA Chassis, WJ, $130 OME front coils, $200 Isolator pads, 3/4 lift, $30 JKS rear shackles, $100 JKS adjustable tracbar, $206 Bilstein 4600 shocks, 4, $300 Replaced bushings in rear springs, NAPA Chassis, $100 Replaced rear leaf springs, General Spring, $350 Replaced original donor 4x4 trans with Wrangler AX5, reclocked, $200 plus travel. Replaced bench seat with bench seat, $60 plus travel. Purchase of XJ front buckets yet to be installed, $150 One front and two trans mounts, $35 Purchase of Brown Dog engine mounts, yet to be installed, $90 Federal axle ujoints $25 Front brakes, included calipers, hoses, rotors, pads, $120 Replaced D35 with C8.25, to included KJ discs, total to included related parts, $500 Replaced rear Bilsteins with Gabriels after 3" lift, $75 New drive shaft, $225 Hurst short-throw and TC stick, $300 ACC carpet, first $200 and just ordered replacement, $116, total to include learning curve, $300 New exhaust, $180 WJ power steering pump, with hose, $40 WJ power brake booster and master, to include related, $50 Upgrade to 105 Amp Alt, $90 Upgrade headlight and harness, $50 Ravines, no cost. Cooper tires, 31s, $700 Rear bumper, homemade, value to include labor and parts, $350+ Tool box, free, $100 value. Replaced front grille and bezels with chrome, modified to fit from '92 XJ, $70 Replaced clutch, LUK, $100 Replaced clutch master, twice, $80 Battery, $65 Replaced all sensors and upgrade wiring to include cables and all related, $350 New engine, yet to be installed, $3000 New steering wheel, to be replaced again, $130 Brake cables, replaced twice, $60 Changing total- $12,341 Rugged Ridge floor mats, $75 Front 28mm sway bar from XJ, $30 Rear sway bar from Blazer, $50 Octagon aluminum radiator overflow, Jegs, $50 Bilstein 5125 at the rear, $156 Sony head unit, $120 Spicer ball joints $103 Bilstein 5100 front shocks, 145 New total- $13,070 Terraflex D30 cover- $99 Crown steering shaft- $95 Ironman Fabrication UCAs and LCAs $440 Fuel Maverick Wheels, 9x18, $980 Nitto 285/60-18 $989 Curt front receiver $ 101 Bushwacker flares $ 413 Warrior Prod. 560 bumper $330 New total- $16,517

I'll say no, knowing you intend to prove me wrong.

OK, sorry. I guess there's no plug on the head?

Ahhhh..........what am I missing? Would not be easier to swap the housing and retain your original sensor?

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-SAE-Metric-Long-Arm-Hex-Key-Set-26-Piece-HLAHKSM26PC/202934869?cm_mmc=Shopping|Base&gclid=CjwKEAjw8LOsBRDdub-swPW8riISJAAnmS01u_rZysTBkqe8k2zzgtqFtjgrB6RdlWKn0DfRWpcRMBoC7oPw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds You'll not regret it.

I'm sorry, I assumed the hole for the pilot bearing was in the fly wheel. Fill the hole with grease. Find a bolt that just barely fits the hole. Give is a light whack with a hammer and the grease will force the bearing out.

You do not need a pilot bearing puller. Remove the fly wheel. Use a socket or other slightly smaller in diameter than the pilot bearing and drive it out. Also, I would not reuse that flywheel unless you have it resurfaced. Others will say not to......I'm guessing.........and others will say they have with no ill effects.......up to you.