Jeep Driver

https://raleigh.craigslist.org/pts/d/jeep-comanche-mj-longbed-jeep/6184460772.html

Since the POS Bosch will not keep up with my 2.5 and since I'm going V8 in the future anyway, I want to get the new 86 sender assembly and install an external pump. Will my gauge function properly? http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-86-Jeep-Comanche-Fuel-Tank-sending-unit-assy-23-5-gallon-tank-52003652/232057535509?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 Thanks

Poisoned from what?

2.5s and 4.0s use the same CPS. I agree with the fuel problem.

Very cool! the byline that is! You guys are owned by TEN, right? you know any of the Roadkill people?

Oh, sorry, thought you had axles lying about.

Here you go. https://ffdynamics.com/products/jeep-cherokee-aluminum-radiator Thank you.

Can you give us a WMS to WMS measurement too?

I went to their site but could not find the rad by itself, could you post a link?

It takes 15 minutes to drill six holes.

This info is from SteigerPerformance.com. They offer a repair kit for the power window regulator. Check out the bottom of the page for the Related Tech Info, part of which is pasted below. The spiral cable inside of the window regulator has been worn down by the gear in the motor housing. (Sometimes the gear itself will also become worn, but usually it is just the cable itself.) This almost always happens at the full up and/or full down positions. What you can do is to disassemble the regulator, pull the spiral cable out, flip it around and re-install it, "backwards", then reassemble the regulator. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/power-window-motor-limit-stops-1072051/

Idle Air Control. That would be my guess too.

Sorry to hear of that, man. Not good. And whatever it was took out that cam lobe too. I've got a good bottom end I'll sell you.......but I'm in E TN.

Early 90s Wrangler used the aluminum and the later 2.5s used stamped steel just like the 4.0s.......Pretty certain about that, I had one and was too dumb to save the cover, the later 2.5. Edit.......... I have a cover off a 98 TJ that is aluminum..........but the one pictured here is from a 91, IIRC. The early ones are more desirable to me because it only has on boss to grind off.

You have a plastic VC, yes, it warps. If you use Permatex you'll have to destroy the cover next time you remove it. You have shoulder bolts, they only thread in so far before they hit the shoulder, doesn't matter if you use a pattern or not. I suggest you get an aluminum VC and a Felpro rubber gasket, if you don't want it to leak. And yours will leak, I don't care what you do with it or to it. As for color, every color is always available, find a good tint man that has been tinting for 40 years. Note lugs here- Note no lugs here, ground off for better fit with Felpro- Use standard 1/4-20 bolts. Do as described and it will not leak.

Got a question for you, Hogan. Now that you've done the V8 swap, any regrets? If you had to do it over again, SBC or LS? Serious question here, I want an old school SB and everyone else is saying I'm foolish. What say you?

You stated that once you quit towing the temps returned to normal, this tells me it was the towing that effected temps. From my own experience, and that of others, AW4s generate a tremendous amount of heat. It's one of the things that I have yet to see anyone contribute to the MJ/XJ cooling problems. Automakers produce vehicles to operate within the same parameters regardless of where it spends it life, northern MI or southern FL, or in your case, So Cal. Marrying the trans to the rad is designed to bring the trans temps up, not down. The trans will create it's own heat, you are not waking up to 5 degree mornings. If 'normal' engine temp is 210 (I don't agree that that is normal), and the trans normal temp is 160-170 (I do agree that is normal) then how is the rad ever going to cool the trans? It cannot, it will not. If anything it raises the trans temp. Then, you tax the trans by towing/climbing which does raise the trans temp which in turn taxes the cooling system even more.......vicious circle. I was just looking a rads, my wife's XJ is due for one, I will by local so that I can replace local (same day if necessary) and I just noticed the postal vs left hand........interesting that I noticed this and found the thread that mentioned the postal being on the hot side of the rad https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/cooling---heating-16773/radiator-20386/radiator-11357/1998/jeep/cherokee?q=radiator I'm interested in the postal rad, curious if it will fit, 1" taller core, copper, reasonably priced. And yeah, I'll just bypass the trans to a small cooler.......this XJ gets driven maybe 20 miles per week.

Here's something for you to read. http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1037152 Read his entire post. I'm suggesting to you that your AW4 was probably in the 240 to 250 degree range which pushed your engine temp up to 235. Most of our trucks are 27-30 years old, it no longer matters what it left the factory with, it's old and tired.

Yeah, definitely worth the $2K.

First thing I would do is divorce the trans from the rad. Secondly, mount this under the bed. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/der-15820?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-derale-cooling-products&gclid=Cj0KCQjwtpDMBRC4ARIsADhz5O4-uosxiYzDoeTXbXyKwPvHOBg3rsHrtFpBJNflekUFtb8VYwui7YcaAm0AEALw_wcB

BTW, you'll see it right around 6:14, the way those flares fit. For all the trash that gets posted about Bushwackers................they fit. I don't care who's those are, that's garbage. It's the little things that matter.

I like the wheels and tires. And I like the dude's attitude about it.

You cannot go by their compatibility charts, this is also listed for a 2.5................2.5s have a separate reservoir. Except for mine. :P

I appreciate it guys. I figured the offset was the difference. Thanks For Wilwood?

Drop the trans a few inches, remove the 4 bolts, pull the shifter housing up and out, remove trans. Take the lower bushing cup off shifter input shaft, throw shifter in the trash. https://core-shifters.com/collections/shifters-for-cherokee/products/core-hurst-shifter-for-1984-2002-jeep-cherokee-xj-comanche-mj-w-4-cyl-ax5 Now you can unbolt the shift lever, and drop the trans.............not to mention all the smoooooth shifting you'll enjoy. :yes: