87MJTIM

I've owned mine for 29 years. Honestly, I stopped paying attention to that about 28 years ago. Sorry.

If the AX15 is from 93 and earlier MJ/XJ, it is most likely an internal slave cylinder. I believe you would need a new/matching int. slave for the AX15. If the AX15 is from a 94 and later XJ, then it is an external slave. This is a plus. You will definitely need an ext. slave and a hose line. You could purchase a master/slave kit which is a pre-bled set up. Make sure the kit is for a PRE-97 AX15. The master cylinder for the later years will interfere with the brake booster. Bad news is the cross members are different. Try to get the cross member AND mounting bracket that came with the AX15. Everything else is P-N-P. Good luck. (Put in your signature your Yr. eng, trans, whether 2 or 4 wd [obviously 2wd], any modifications you or a PO made, and most of all you location. If another member is close by, they may be available to help out. :thumbsup: )

yes

If you want to get a "quality" int. slave, you $hould go to a $tealer$hip. When you install a new one, leave the straps in place. Bleed the clutch first. The straps will pop off when you press the clutch in.

Bad slave cylinder? Leaking from inside sounds like the problem.

Did Jeep put an auto in the MJ? Because everyone I've owned was a manual. (I've only owned one, but I think it is a good sample.) I owned a 91 XJ: manual and an 84 CJ: manual

I don't think the 2.5 is considered a "Renix." But, then again, Renix is associated with the fuel delivery system. If you have a pressure bottle on the passenger side fire wall, then you probably have the heater control vacuum valve.

Correct me if I'm mistaken, but with the Renix, there is the pressure bottle to contend with. Wouldn't you need a T pipe adapter? Straight hoses to the heater core would not work. Does anyone have a part number for a T adapter that replaces the vac fitting?

Here is the link to the 88 electrical manual http://comancheclub.com/topic/12083-electrical-manual/?hl=electrical+manual

Where exactly are the wires running? Could be seat belt buzzer, or 4wd light in the console. Power to B-pillar lights? Rear bed light? There is an 88 wiring diagram on CC. I know from experience that the wire colors and connectors are diff from 87, but not that much. Download the manual and trace the wires around.

Z&M out of Toledo OH has MJ rockers. I picked up a driver's side for $40 at the York PA Jeep show last July. He had both driver's and passenger's side for $40 ea.

From my "personal" RockAuto discount email. 4809947043255606

No! Leave the old plugs in place. You will connect on to the new harness. This will give power to trigger the relays.

Did this upgrade to both my MJ and CJ. Simple P-N-P. It does require drilling holes to mount the relays. The most fiddly part is running wires from right to left side of the grill.

Nowadays, it seems there are only two versions of vehicles that have "standard" transmissions: sports cars and base models. My wife and I have four vehicles: 3 manuals and 1 auto (Chubby Urban - which I HATE to drive) Our daughter is learning to drive currently. We are "forcing" her to learn a stick. She LOVES it! She does not like to drive the Suburban (too big). The W and D just returned from Poland. They told me that almost every vehicle there is a manual, even the buses they rode around in! I dread the day that I cannot purchase a manual trans. But, alas, time marches on.

On the CJ, the pedal would not travel to the floor. The clutch would release and grab at the top of the pedal motion. The slave cyl came with an adapter rod to adjust the position/length push rod. I tried every combination with and without the rod. Nothing changed. I installed one of the master slave kits. Now the pedal travels to the floor. The grab and release is now in the center of the pedal motion. Maybe mine was bad :dunno: Maybe there was a screw loose behind the steering wheel. All I can say is: I was not pleased with it.

Knuckle, I don't know your location compared to Huntsville (certainly closer than Frederick, MD). https://bham.craigslist.org/cto/5701168490.html I found this 98 XJ on CL in Huntsville. Possible parts vehicle: 4.0 with a manual! (Edit: does not say if it is 2wd or 4wd. need to ask.)

I purchased the master-slave-hose kit assembly that is sold by most online store. Brick-and-mortar stores sell similar brands. The later model AX15 assemblies have a larger master cylinder that may interfere with the brake booster. So, look for an early model: 94 - 96. You can search Rockauto.com http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=2770466&cc=1180213&jsn=487or Jeep4x4center.com. I first purchased a master, slave and hose from Novak Adapters for my CJ7 AX15 conversion. I HATED IT! I purchased one of the complete assemblies from Rockauto. My only regret is that I wasted money on the Novak. I would not recommend that purchase from Novak.

Thx. I did not know when the trans change occurred.

Craigslist. If a single trans appears too expensive, look for a parts vehicle with an AX15 trans. You'll want a 94 to 01 XJ that has a 4.0. A YJ/TJ from that era will have the AX15, but the tcase clocking will be different.

You can use the A pillar and dash. However, the B pillar will not fit. The front seats will fit, but not the mounting brackets. You should keep the MJ brackets. The 4 door XJ seats don't fold forward. Seats from a 2 dr XJ do fold forward.

If your radiator has a cap like the one pictured, the PO converted to the open system. The closed system does not have a radiator cap. Instead, there is a pressure tank on the passenger side fire wall.

Pennsoil Synchromesh.

My BA10 never left me stranded. My complaint about it (and first generation AX15) is the stupid internal slave cylinder. My 87 MJ was on its 5th slave cylinder. I said it was not going to see a 6th. I swapped it out last Aug/Sept after only 28 years and 282,000 miles. Not too bad, if I must say. I am not giving it a bad rap (except for the internal slave).

Look for a 94+ AX15. This will have the external slave cylinder. The 89 to 93 are internal slaves. You will also need a matching tcase with 23 spline input shafts. The tcase from the BA10 has 21 splines. Unless you rebuild the old, you will need a 23 spline. Any tcase behind an AX15 will have 23 splines. If you go external, you will need a new clutch master and slave cylinder. While you are in there, a new clutch and pressure plate should be installed. Be sure to get a kit that matches the trans, not the engine. Changing the pilot bushing/bearing should be done as well. The AX15 input shaft tip changed sizes. Depending on the year of your AX15, the tip may be diff from the old BA10. Here is my AX15 swap: http://comancheclub.com/topic/48136-my-ax15-swap/