87MJTIM

Correct. I wanted to point out some of the diff between years.

The 86 was only offered with a long bed. The engine options were 2.5, 4 cyl, TBI, 2.8 GM V6, carb'd or 2.1 (?) diesel. The firewalls will not fit the longer 4.0 engines without some re-shaping. (It is rummered that later production models came with firewall shaped to fit the 4.0 engines.) The 87 - 90 came with the 2.5, 2.1 and the 4.0 as options. 87 was the first year of the short bed, and was offered through 92. These year are referred as Renix Jeep because of the engines used. The 4.0 was fuel injected while the 2.5 was still TBI. The 91 - 92 are the HO years. This is when Chrysler put its stamp on Jeep (before they stamped out the MJ). The 4.0 saw an increase in horse power and the 2.5 was FI. Here's a link to more info on the MJ: http://www.comanchemj.1hwy.com/photo6.html

Did you do the compression test? What were the readings across the engine? Does #1 have a leak?

OP has an 89. Pre OBD. No flashing lights or codes. Only way I am aware he could get computer info is from a SnapOn MT2500 or similar scanner.

Is the pan bent at the rear where is fits around the bearing cap? I cannot believe you have purchased 3 bad RMS.

Oil pressure sending unit?

I'm not familiar with the 2.5. Does it have an open or closed cooling system? If it over heats while operating, it sounds like a cooling sys problem. Closed system: Is the cap busted? Get the Volvo cap. Is the reservoir bottle cracked? Need to replace it, with the Volvo cap.

I installed an AX15 from a XJ. He's a video on youtube where the guy install an XJ AX15 into a YJ. He shows how he clocks the tcase for the different drops. This would be the same process in the other direction. Part 1 Part 2

Only bad experience with RA was I bought a Felpro oil pan gasket for the 4.0. I dropped my pan then I noticed the gasket was not the correct size. I compared the part # on the box with my order; they pulled the wrong part. They transposed some #s. I needed a gasket that day, so I went to NAPA. I paid more then RA even after shipping, but I got the correct part. I contacted RA the next day and told them what happened. I was refunded the purchase price and shipping. They let me keep the wrong gasket. I purchase online items that I don't need right away or the price plus shipping is way less then I pay locally. If I need it right away, or I want to be sure the parts are correct, I get them locally. I have NAPA, PepBoys, Advanced and Auto Zone all close by. I log on the the web and search all four for the parts, prices and availability.

Pictures (drawings) in the manual do not look like regular relays. Look more like a traditional plug/connector. (Maybe "relay" is not the proper term.)

I assume you have the CAD. Is there a vacuum leak any where in the lines? Perform the CAD elimination and move on.

The '88 manual says it is "under the LH side of instrument panel behind kick panel."

The '88 Elec FSM has it as connector c354. I haven't looked for mine,

http://york.craigslist.org/pts/5474011190.html $300 is not enough for me to take. He'd have to pay me more! :yes:

Thanks. My MJ will be 29 yrs. old in May. Only one owner! Still my daily driver

No pics, but here is the www: http://vintagevibes.net/jeep_cj.htm

I like period specific, too...most of the time. I don't have cassettes any more and CDs take up too much space. I can plug in my phone and play more music than I can carry on CD. Additionally, the radio is bluetooth; phone calls come through the speakers - ultra hands free. For my CJ, I got a retro radio that is fully electronic. Vintage vibes.

I use them as drink coasters, now.

But it will raise $$$. Just another tax. In Connecticut it was a loser. By statute, the fee for a test is $20 -- half to the testing station and half to the state. If you fail, the first retest is free. For an OBD-2 vehicle, the test is quick -- run the mirror underneath to verify that the cat is still there, plug in the scanner to the OBD-2 port, fire it up and read the numbers. For any pre-OBD-2 vehicle they have to physically do a pressure test on the fuel cap, they have to put the vehicle on a chassis dyno and actually run the vehicle through a prescribed series of operational parameters. And then do it again -- for free -- if the first test failed. I'm sure the shops doing the testing were losing money hand over fist, and even the knuckleheads in Hartford finally realized that all they were doing was causing testing stations to leave the program. MD is almost the same, sans the dyno. We have tail pipe sniff test. Just run the engine at 2500 RPM for 1 minute. If you fail, next test is free! Cost us $14 every second year. I could put "historic" tags on it (20+ years) and not have to have the testing done. However, there are restrictions on amount of driving you can do with the vehicle (not a DD). The historic tags cost more every two years than regular tags. Not much of a savings.

But it will raise $$$. Just another tax.

Another MD'er :waving:

No one has mentioned the front axle. Is that part of the package? If not, I think $850 is steep for just a trans and tcase. If you get the whole ZJ, sans engine, then maybe. You can part out whats left to recoup your money.

You will need the 4wd trans. The 2wd trans will not work.

Spare tire loose? If it is loose, you may not hear when accelerating. The engine noise will drown out other sounds. When you let off the gas, the engine goes quiet(er), the truck slows down and the tire flops around. If you don't have the spare tire then "Nevermind."

I used just the bushing.