87MJTIM

My vote is the CPS. My experience was this: Back in the early 90s (92?), I would have a complete power loss - engine died, all power shuts off. Then just as suddenly as I lost all power, the power would come back on. It did this several times to me. Then one night while driving home on the Washington beltway - in heavy traffic - it died and would not restart. It was towed to a service station for repair. The mechanic finally figured out it was the CPS. He replaced it and all was fine, until.... A few months later, I was on my way to work when I had a complete loss of power again. This time I had it towed to a Jeep dealership. The mechanic listed to my description, looked under the hood. He pulled up a wire that had melted through! The first mechanic did not route the wire away from the exhaust pipes. The wire just melted away. Now, when ever I do trans work or work at the back of the engine, I make sure the wire routes behind the cyl head to the passenger side, then loops back to the top of the trans.

Ya beat me.

Cruise control ground wire. Connector C317 (Electric FSM) Do you have cruise?

The "mid-size" pickups ultimately took more steroids than Lance Armstrong. When our MJs were "new," they were equal size to the Ranges and S10s. The small pickups, Toyotas and Nissans/Datsuns, were just that: small. Even VW has a micro pickup. Jump to today, my MJ is small compared to the smallest that Ford/GM/Dodge/Toyota/Nissan have to offer. Heck, even those 4 door things called Jeep Wranglers are bigger than my MJ. I wish that Jeep (AMC then Chrysler) had offered an extended cab version. But, alas, they did not. I will keep my MJ looking the way it came out of the factory. My 2¢.

There are several on ebay. Some of the sellers show the cartridges that are included. I am only following the ones that show carts for Jeeps, and have the primary and troubleshooting carts. I also look to see if the Jeep-01 cable is pictured. Without both of those, I keep looking. I just don't want to get a set of OBDII carts and not be able to use them. Thanks Eagle. I was aware that the computer did not store codes. I want to get one for under $200.

I am looking on ebay and craiglist at scanners for the Comanche. I am seeing several different models where the cartridges cover different years. Some cartridges cover "thru 1998" or other years. Other cartridges cover "model years 1996 to 2000" which I know is OBDII. Since my truck is pre-OBDII, will the later model carts read the computer codes? Is the red brick the same and just the carts are inter-changeable? Which ones should I be looking at?

There may be something in the tank that is stopping the level float from lift up all the way. Have you removed the pump/sending unit to inspect for any obstructions?

The old vacuum controlled the front axle CAD. Does your new axle have the CAD? The other electric plug activates the 4WD idiot light (I believe).

I'm sorry to hear about all your troubles. I just did the swap and did not have that many issues. "Other than that, Mrs. Lincoln, what did you think of the play?"

I believe the speedo gear from the old tcase will plug in to the new tcase. You will use the cable for your existing MJ.

I am not sure I understand you question/issue. The only electrical hookup on the trans is the back up light switch. You will need to cut the end of the connector coming from the engine side and replace it with a pig tail connector. You can get this at any parts store.

A little body filler and it will be good as new.... Ok, A LOT of filler. :rotfl2:

Did you change the tank? Did you change the sending unit? Are the wires crossed? I recall that sending units changes polarity from early yrs to later yrs.

There are six studs that thread into the tcase. These studs go through the holes at the back of the trans. Six nuts hold the trans and tcase together. My experience with removing the tcase is that four of the nuts come off the studs. The other two nuts/studs come out of the tcase. The tcase slides backwards the length of the studs - approx. 1.5". As for the seal, if you are not sure it is the correct part, go to a local parts store. You my pay a little more than online, but you get immediately and return it immediately if it is the wrong part.

You could change it by putting an AX15 in front of it. :laughin: (Just kidding.) You can drop the the tcase without removing the crossmember. You just have to reach around it to get to the nuts that hold the two together. To remove the crossmember, there are four bolts that hold the trans to it and four bolts that hold the CM to the frame rails. Place a jack or some kind of support under the trans to hold it up. Now, the nuts for the tcase are easy to get off. I don't know if that is correct. They list it as fitting. The hard part is getting the old seal out w/o damaging the output shaft. To install, get a piece of PVC pipe that is the same diameter as the seal and tap it down w/ a hammer.

Look at the input shaft tip. Is it 3/4" in diameter or smaller? Is the trans internal or external slave? These two observations will help narrow it down.

Is the '15 internal or external slave? What year did the '15 come out of? The earlier AX15s will have a smaller tip input shaft; later models will have a larger (3/4") tip. You need the pilot bushing/bearing to match. I think the change was made when they switched from int to ext. Do you have the mounting bracket that connects the trans to the cross member? You'll need that also. You will need a level driveway, preferably paved, a trans jack, jack stands, and support to hold the engine while the trans is out. Lots of hand tools: sockets, extensions and reverse torx socket (E12?). You will need a wiring pigtail to adapt the reverse light to the AX15 backup light switch. I just did my swap in Aug.

What Pete said. Are all the bolts to the trans and tcase tightened? You had to change the tcase to 23 splines. What year and model (XJ, YJ, TJ) were the trans and tcase out of?

An AX15 will bolt right up to the 4.0. No problems. I just swapped my BA to an AX in August. I kept the same fly wheel. I purchased from Rockauto.com a Clutch Master and Slave Cyl Assembly. I went to an external slave AX15. If you go this route, beware, the later model master cyl have a larger bolt pattern to the fire wall. With an external slave, you could replace just the slave and clutch hose. If you keep the internal, you will need a new internal slave. The BA and AX are diff. To swap the rear axle from an XJ will require re-positioning the brackets. The XJ is SOA and is wider apart. The MJ is SUA and narrower. The shock mounts have to be relocated, also.

Did you ever notice that someone makes a posting - "New member....first MJ...I'm having trouble with..." - and you never hear from them again. Just my observations.

a "stock" XJ with a manual will be 3.07, unless a PO changed gears. But that is something to check. Also, you need a 4.0 XJ not the 2.5.

Hi. :waving: Welcome to the madness. First off, the conversion of a 2wd trans to 4wd is more expensive than finding a 4wd trans. Your best bet is to continue searching for a 4wd XJ. You should search for an XJ that is 94+. These have the better AX15 and the external slave cylinder. Your 89 may have come with a BA10, or it may have an AX15. Both have the internal slaves. Jeep changed trans mid year. AX15s from mid 89 to 93 all used the internal slave cyl. The transfer case should match the AX15. If you buy a parts XJ that won't be an issue. The tcase input shafts changed when Jeep switched from the BA (21 splines) to the AX (23 splines). The front drive shaft from the XJ will fit without adjusting. Your MJ rear drive shaft will need to be shortened. The XJ rear DS will be too short. With the change from internal slave to external slave, you will need a new slave cyl.

I think MancheKid86 is on to something. If the only change was the fiywheel and the truck no long starts, that should be the place to look at first. You can remove the starter and get a better look at the FW, then looking through the CPS opening. I swapped my BA10 for an AX15 three months ago. I kept the original flywheel. I had not problems starting and running the truck.

Your Alt would stop charging. Did your gauge drop? Did you idiot light come? When you are done with classes for the day, open the hood and look. (I was always told that the engine would cut out without the belt driving everything...but I am not a mechanic.)

If your belt came off your PS pump, it would come off ALL pumps and pulleys. Your truck would stop running. Since you continued to drive it, I am guessing it wasn't the belt. A load pop would be something breaking. Check all your linkages for something that looks out of place.