87MJTIM

Did you change the tank? Did you change the sending unit? Are the wires crossed? I recall that sending units changes polarity from early yrs to later yrs.

There are six studs that thread into the tcase. These studs go through the holes at the back of the trans. Six nuts hold the trans and tcase together. My experience with removing the tcase is that four of the nuts come off the studs. The other two nuts/studs come out of the tcase. The tcase slides backwards the length of the studs - approx. 1.5". As for the seal, if you are not sure it is the correct part, go to a local parts store. You my pay a little more than online, but you get immediately and return it immediately if it is the wrong part.

You could change it by putting an AX15 in front of it. :laughin: (Just kidding.) You can drop the the tcase without removing the crossmember. You just have to reach around it to get to the nuts that hold the two together. To remove the crossmember, there are four bolts that hold the trans to it and four bolts that hold the CM to the frame rails. Place a jack or some kind of support under the trans to hold it up. Now, the nuts for the tcase are easy to get off. I don't know if that is correct. They list it as fitting. The hard part is getting the old seal out w/o damaging the output shaft. To install, get a piece of PVC pipe that is the same diameter as the seal and tap it down w/ a hammer.

Look at the input shaft tip. Is it 3/4" in diameter or smaller? Is the trans internal or external slave? These two observations will help narrow it down.

Is the '15 internal or external slave? What year did the '15 come out of? The earlier AX15s will have a smaller tip input shaft; later models will have a larger (3/4") tip. You need the pilot bushing/bearing to match. I think the change was made when they switched from int to ext. Do you have the mounting bracket that connects the trans to the cross member? You'll need that also. You will need a level driveway, preferably paved, a trans jack, jack stands, and support to hold the engine while the trans is out. Lots of hand tools: sockets, extensions and reverse torx socket (E12?). You will need a wiring pigtail to adapt the reverse light to the AX15 backup light switch. I just did my swap in Aug.

What Pete said. Are all the bolts to the trans and tcase tightened? You had to change the tcase to 23 splines. What year and model (XJ, YJ, TJ) were the trans and tcase out of?

An AX15 will bolt right up to the 4.0. No problems. I just swapped my BA to an AX in August. I kept the same fly wheel. I purchased from Rockauto.com a Clutch Master and Slave Cyl Assembly. I went to an external slave AX15. If you go this route, beware, the later model master cyl have a larger bolt pattern to the fire wall. With an external slave, you could replace just the slave and clutch hose. If you keep the internal, you will need a new internal slave. The BA and AX are diff. To swap the rear axle from an XJ will require re-positioning the brackets. The XJ is SOA and is wider apart. The MJ is SUA and narrower. The shock mounts have to be relocated, also.

Did you ever notice that someone makes a posting - "New member....first MJ...I'm having trouble with..." - and you never hear from them again. Just my observations.

a "stock" XJ with a manual will be 3.07, unless a PO changed gears. But that is something to check. Also, you need a 4.0 XJ not the 2.5.

Hi. :waving: Welcome to the madness. First off, the conversion of a 2wd trans to 4wd is more expensive than finding a 4wd trans. Your best bet is to continue searching for a 4wd XJ. You should search for an XJ that is 94+. These have the better AX15 and the external slave cylinder. Your 89 may have come with a BA10, or it may have an AX15. Both have the internal slaves. Jeep changed trans mid year. AX15s from mid 89 to 93 all used the internal slave cyl. The transfer case should match the AX15. If you buy a parts XJ that won't be an issue. The tcase input shafts changed when Jeep switched from the BA (21 splines) to the AX (23 splines). The front drive shaft from the XJ will fit without adjusting. Your MJ rear drive shaft will need to be shortened. The XJ rear DS will be too short. With the change from internal slave to external slave, you will need a new slave cyl.

I think MancheKid86 is on to something. If the only change was the fiywheel and the truck no long starts, that should be the place to look at first. You can remove the starter and get a better look at the FW, then looking through the CPS opening. I swapped my BA10 for an AX15 three months ago. I kept the original flywheel. I had not problems starting and running the truck.

Your Alt would stop charging. Did your gauge drop? Did you idiot light come? When you are done with classes for the day, open the hood and look. (I was always told that the engine would cut out without the belt driving everything...but I am not a mechanic.)

If your belt came off your PS pump, it would come off ALL pumps and pulleys. Your truck would stop running. Since you continued to drive it, I am guessing it wasn't the belt. A load pop would be something breaking. Check all your linkages for something that looks out of place.

Find the factory service manual online. They're out there. You can search jeep4x4center.com. Scroll down the left side column. Select "Jeep Knowledge Base." Then select "Online Repair Manual." It doesn't list MJs, but you can select the Cherokee model. Select a year. then scroll down the "Category" list for transmissions. There are two sections. You can download these for future reference.

:hmm: I'm confused. There must be something missing. In the first post, you stated that you were swapping a BA10 for an AX15. You changed flywheels. I just did this same swap on my 87 and kept the original flywheel and CPS. These two are engine specific, not trans specific. The swap took a few weeks to complete. Not unusual. When you bolted everything back together, the engine would not start. It was running before you started. In post #9, you state that you opened the dizzy and found "a layer of orange liquid." Is it oil? Do you have a coolant leak somewhere? While you had it apart for the swap, did you "work" on anything in the engine? I am guilty of doing "investigative" repairs: "What is this?...Oops...Oh, shoot!...Where did that piece go?....How does this fit back on there?" I cannot see how a trans swap would have caused the dizzy to break. There must be more happening that we don't know. You say the PO hacked up the wiring. I am at a disadvantage. I am the only owner. My wiring has not been hacked up. Do you still have the old flywheel? Can you reinstall it? I know it will require dropping the trans and reinstalling. :doh: Something else is wrong than just the trans swap.

I light of the current political season, the OP spoke as well as the candidates, but with fewer words. :laughin:

Nice!

I saw this episode this weekend. http://www.truckutv.com/?p=7605 Is this a member's truck? These two do a 4wd conversion on this 88 MJ. How hard can it be? The got the whole thing done in half an hour with lots of time to do shameless product promotions. As a matter of fact, I think they spent as much time promoting sponsor's product as showing the work on the MJ.

It's a definite maybe!

Is your 86 4 or 6 cyl? What is the YJ - 4 or 6? Trans MAY NOT fit across dif engines.

The CPS should go with engine not the trans

Here is a link for the 88 electrical FSM. This may help you trace the gremlins away. http://comancheclub.com/topic/12083-electrical-manual/

Replace both hoses.

I would at least start with the Volvo bottle cap. If the tank is cracked, you should replace it. Throw away the cap that comes with the bottle and use the Volvo cap. (See Cruiser's rant about getting rid of the plastic pressure bottle.) You said the coolant was coming out of the upper hose. Where? At the bottle connection? Somewhere along the hose?

Do you have pictures of making it or a write up? Part numbers? Where to purchase?