87MJTIM

4.0 vs. 2.5?

Yes, full engine rebuild. Correction - it was $2000 to $2200. I ended up getting a client to provide the labor. I paid for the parts: $850.

Don't know about your area, but I was quoted about $2200 - $2500 by two shops in MD a few years ago.

Some people swear by Jasper...others swear at Jasper. What gave out on yours? Is there a machine shop near you? Talk to one of those to get an estimate.

Go to Morris Jeep 4x4. in the bottom left of the main screen, there is "Jeep Community: Jeep Knowledge Base" Go to the Repair manual section. Search for the model and yr. I got the whole 93 XJ/YJ FSM

Look at the headliner. Make sure the board is present and not damaged. You can always get it recovered. Look under the truck at the floor boards. Make sure it isn't a Flintstones car. Pull up the carpeting will show surface rust. Is the dash intact? Radio present? has it been hacked up? The rear bumpers are hard find. You can get after market bumpers. Fey makes one that fits and looks the closest to original. Otherwise, you can get custom bumpers. Post pictures when you can. We all like to drool...I mean look.

BTW I will have an 8.25 (3.55) available, if anyone would like one.

Thanks to everyone. I was leaning toward keeping the D44, but wasn't sure if an 8.25 was worth changing to. Who makes the best R&P and install kits?

So, if I did the swap, would I also have to change the drive shaft?

A client has given to me, through bartering, a 93 XJ, 4.0, 4x4, auto w/ a CAD D30 and an 8.25. Since it is an auto, I assume it is 3.55. My MJ has a factory D44 with 3.07. I am going to do a straight swap up front: my CAD D30 (3.07) for the XJ D30 (3.55). My original plan was to re-gear the D44 to 3.55. I thought the XJ has a D35, but upon looking closer, it is an 8.25. (Oval shape, flat spot on the top and bottom.) Now, I am considering a swap of the D44 for the 8.25. This is what I am confronting: To re-gear: I don't have to remove either axle. I have to get the R&P and have someone install it. I don't have to mess with the brakes. I keep the factory original components. To swap: I have to remove two axles. One axle has to be installed. I have to get the perches and shock mounts relocated. I have to mess with the brakes (Can you say disk conversion?) What to do with the extra axle? My MJ is my DD. I don't any wheeling with it. The most offroad this sees is a dirt road to some property in WV. For my driving habits, why is one axle better than the other? Your thoughts, please.

If the bore of the master cyl is bigger than the bore on the slave, you are pushing too much fluid in to the slave. A prescription for blow out. Can you check the bore on both to make sure they're equal. It could be more expen$ive, but replace both while you're replacing the $lave.

Cat clogged?

What yr is your truck?

It was mentioned prior, check the glove box or vanity mirror. The 88 electric FSM has the floor lamp, B pillar lamps, cargo bed, and glove box are all fed from the dome fuse. This is hot all the time. The vanity (passenger visor) and cigar lighter getting power from both the dome and radio fuse. This fuse only is hot when in Run. Do you have the cargo box light? The cargo lamp is powered by the switch on the dash. It has an LED to show when it is turned on. It the switch is bad, the light my be on all the time. In a dark location, like a closed garage or "a dark and stormy night" sit inside the truck and look for any lights on.

Can you put a speed bleed on the end of the clutch line? It would help us "one man" mechanics.

Have you recently done any electrical modifications? Perhaps a new/diff radio. I suggest this because some radios draw a lot of power to keep station presets and clocks. my 2¢ I saw a video on youtube how to test for parasitic draws. Hook a DVOM up to the batt. See how much current is flowing. Then start pulling fuses to see when the reading drops. That circuit is were you start your search.

If you have a 98 AX, than you do not need to change the bearing retainer plate. The later model AX has the correct plate all ready. The older AX (internal slave) used a shorter post bearing retainer plate. This was because the release bearing traveled less. The new AX (external slave) uses a longer post bearing retainer plate. This is because the release bearing travels further. Hope that helps.

For carpeting, I bought mine from Stock Interiors. http://www.stockinteriors.com/AutoCarpet.asp?Itemid=2720&MakeId=14&ModelId=249

What year Jeep did the AX15 come out of? The input shaft diameter changed (94?) to a larger diam. That means the ID of pilot bushing/bearing needs to be larger. There is a thread on here about which PB to get. I believe it was for 74, CJ5, 304 V8. Go to www.rockauto.com and search for the PB size for that engine.

Trace the wiring back to the source, using the FSM. Then go to the trans. "You mission, Jim, should you decide to accept it, is to...."

Here is my AX15 swap. Scroll to the 10th picture to see the linkage that mounts to the trans tunnel. The AX15 version is mounted; the BA10 is in my hand. http://comancheclub.com/topic/48136-my-ax15-swap/

Here is the 88 electrical FSM. Download it to you computer and use it to trace the wiring through the engine. http://comancheclub.com/topic/12083-electrical-manual/

It dropped down the passenger side. Look at the picture in 88whitemanche's link. Look for a 4 pin connector. If the PO re-wired to a switch in the cab, he (probably) would have wired through that connector.

I cut the end off the wiring harness and connected a two prong adapter that plugs into the AX15 reverse switch. I got it at PepBoys.

Here is my swap. http://comancheclub.com/topic/48136-my-ax15-swap/