87MJTIM

Love your signature name. I guess I am TRBeatlesfan!

After some fiddling with final parts (like the tcase vent tube :doh: ) I've got it all back together. :banana: I drove it around the block to test it out. The clutch feels great. Nice and firm. The shifting is stiffer than the BA, but has a much shorter throw.

74 CJ5 304 V8 http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=628303&cc=1309452&jnid=427&jpid=1

I believe you can change the part on the tcase from electric to mechanical by swapping from old to new. For the alignment tool, you need to measure the ID of the PB with the OD of the tool. I don't believe you need to change the slave. You can keep the one you have.

I think your existing PB will work. The change of the input shaft happened in 95 or later. I just installed a 98 AX15. I purchased the bushing for a 75 CJ5 304, per info I got on CC.

BleepinJeeep on Youtube has a video about changing the input shaft. Plus, there are other videos about that. The drop is about 3/4". You will also need the mounting bracket. I do believe the BA will fit the AX. The holes are threaded. The drive shafts will work with no problems. I have an extra crossmember and mounting bracket I could sell. I painted the CM with Por15 so it will never rust.

I had not thought about that. I hope I did not damage it I had to use an old sparkplug socket to drive it it. :roll:

Yes, but.... I had to lift the carpeting to get the bolts that hold the bracket to the trans tunnel. That means removing the driver's seat (bucket).

Empty Post

I got this sent to me today.

If you do the elimination, you will not be locked on 4wd. You will only be in 4wd when you engage the tcase. The elimination just locks the two piece axle together. Read through the prior link. There is a lot info about how it is "supposed to work" and what the elimination accomplishes. You should use the 4wd shifter and linkage from the donor. There is a diff in the profiles for the BA10 and AX15 that the linkage adjusts for.

the colored line are vacuum lines. Look at your rt front axle for the CAD. You will see the other end of some of those lines. You will need to do the CAD elimination since you will not have the vac lines to control it. Without doing this, you will not have 4wd. The last picture above, the large nut with a cable coming out the end, is your speedo cable for your 87. The later XJ/MJ (91+) use electronic speedos. Those are the three wires coming out of the tail of the tcase. The pieces that are in the same location on the tcase (where the cable plugged into and the three wire plug) can be swapped. Then the cable will connect to the new tcase.

Ok. Those are transfer case items. I thought you were asking about the reverse light switch on the trans. The rainbow connectors are the vacuum lines for the front axle CAD (Central Axle Disconnect) that your 87 has. The new tcase may not have the connection for the vac lines. I don't have the answer for that. Sorry. (Be sure to cap off the vac lines since you don't need them anymore.) See CAD elimination. The two wire connection on the new (?) tcase is probably for the 4wd light on your dash. (On the older tcase, that is controlled by the vac switch) The three wire is for the electronic speedo in the later XJ/MJ. The large cable is the older speedo in the Renix XJ/MJ. You will need to unscrew the connections on the tcase and swap them over. I believe (?) they will just swap over.

I cut the ends off the harnesses that plug into the trans and swap them. Soldier the BA10 end to the AX15 harness. Then Plug-N-Play.

I am guessing you have the external slave since the trans was from a 95 YJ. Sound to me like either the trans is not lined up properly or the release bearing is bad. If it is the second, then you have no option but to drop the trans. Things to do first would be to look at the bell housing and make sure it is firmly attached to the engine - no gaps and the bolts are tight. Have a helper with you. Start the engine. With the trans in neutral have them press in the clutch and release it. You should get underneath and listen to the sound changes. Note where the noise is the loudest.

You could get a flywheel holding tool like this: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/lil-23800?seid=srese1&gclid=Cj0KEQjwgeuuBRCiwpD0hP3Cg4kBEiQAHflm1jxrTwCHjbWuRRyri80lMSVZDOftN8anXcgFJk1q8BcaAi-t8P8HAQ I'm sure you could find one at an auto parts stores or tool rentals. A less expensive option (ie cheap) is to place a box end wrench (3/4" I think) on the front of the engine crank. Place so that as the engine turns the wrench wedges up against the fan clutch axle. (Maybe stick a piece of wood between the two.) This will stop the crank from turning more. You will need to back the engine back some to relieve pressure on the wrench when you are done. I did this when I swapped my CJ7 trans.

Keep the Renix flywheel. (Renix = 87 - 90 Jeep 4.0L engines.)

I've seen someone rig up a 9v bat to use a tester. Try googling that. It will provide enough power to light up the display.

Use the crossmember from the Cherokee.

There is thread on CC about this issue. I believe it is a 78 CJ5, 304 Pilot Bushing that fits the the Renix engine and a later AX15. (At least I hope so. That is what I purchased from Rockauto for my conversion.)

There is an old thread on CC about this. If I recall, someone would fix the old. On mine, the LED doesn't light up (most of the time). Occasionally, I'll over at it and it is lit up...and it still keeps accurate time! Most people just pull one out of an XJ. But they're almost as old as the MJ clock.

The RMS is two pieces. If the parts guy gave you on one piece, take it back. Here is the NAPA part: http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Rear-Main-Seal-Set/_/R-FPBBS40612_0147549720 As ParadiseMJ said, rent a puller from the parts store. I got one from PepBoys, part #27059. Look like: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/oes-27059?seid=srese1&gclid=CMntr5OjwMcCFUQSHwodKN8FuQ The two fingers grab the PB from the inside. The bigger end threads on to a slide hammer. A couple of good firm tugs and it (should) pop out.

Sorry. I read your response again. Bearings get greased. Bushing get soaked in oil.

On the parking brake pedal, there is a plastic piece with two pieces of copper attached (mine was light blue, but I've seen other colors). When the pedal is pushed down the two pieces of copper contact each other. This closes the electric circuit turning on the light. When the pedal is up, the copper pieces are pushed apart, opening the circuit - no light. Inspect the plastic piece. Once mine was dirty and the two piece would contact make through the dirt. Cleaned it off - no light. Now, the plastic part is broken. No light. If the wire is not connected to the plastic part and is contacting the body, this closes the circuit and your light is on all the time. This is a "ground switch." The hot wire runs through the light and the switch (on/off) in on the ground wire.

:hijack: My wife and I are original owners. I agree. I would not sell mine! I love my MJ.