87MJTIM

Where in the DC area? I can thankfully say that I'm FROM PG County. I live in Frederick County now.

What Frank said. Unless you or a prior owner changed the trans, you would have the BA 10/5 with an internal slave cylinder. You can change the master cyl without have to change the slave.

I could not get the filter up thru the top with the oil pressure unit, cannister and cable in the way. I tried numerous ways to get it out. When I unscrewed the filter, the oil would drain out on to the starter. I had to crawl under the truck and pull the filter out from around the starter and LCA. PITA!!!! I turned it so the filter points down. Most of the oil drains back into the engine. The little that does run out can be caught with a rag. The filter originally came with the filter pointed down.

When my engine was rebuilt, they turned the adapter to the rear. The only way I could remove the filter was from under the truck. PITA!. The excess oil would spill out on the starter. I turn the adapter upwards (filter pointing down.) Much better.

Ballast resistor? When it gets hot, it can stop working. Try bypassing it by connecting the wires together. My 2 cents

I just saw a craigslist for Winchester VA selling an AX15 and tcase from a 96 - $100!!!! http://winchester.craigslist.org/pts/5088882871.html

Trans is 75-90 gear oil. I was told by a trans repair shop to use Pennzoil Syncromesh. I don't know about the ATF grades.

I kinda answered my own question. I just want to see what others have done.

Getting the parts together for the AX15 install. The AX came from a '98 XJ, so it is ext slave. What have others done for the clutch hydraulic conversion? My choices are to purchase a pre-bled master/slave system. Rockauto sells some for around $125. Or I can get just a slave and hydraulic line for about the same price as the whole system, and keep the master cylinder that I have. The problem with the second option is that I don't know the bore size on the master, so I don't know what bore size slave to get.

Fluid coming out of the tcase is normal. Don't worry. You should drain the fluids from both the trans and tcase before dropping them. This will "lighten" the loan and reduce the chance of spills. The NP231 takes ATF. I don't the quantity, though. Any maintenance you can perform "while I have it off" is a good idea.

Bobolink, you are showing you age with the previous reference. "Everybody was Kung Fu fighting. Those kicks were fast as lightning."

You can put the jack stands under the axles. They will not be in the way for dropping the trans. The shafts will slide right out of the tcase. The breather lines just pull off, unless someone put a clamp on it.

RTV is cheep. i may put it on for the insurance value.

Thx. I did an AX15 in to a CJ7 with a D300. Novak, which sold me the clocking ring, said I needed a gasket/rtv between those two. They use the same gear oil. Is it necessary on these?

AX15 to NP231 gasket/RTV, is it necessary? I was reading up on the ax15 conversion and found conflicting issues with the topic. On another Jeep Forum, someone was asking for the gasket that goes between the two. Some replies said to use RTV, some said neither was necessary, and others said that a PO had used RTV, so they used it also. From the "not necessary" responses, they said it is a dry connection so gaskets/rtv is not needed. Some replies mentioned the AX15 weep hole. The RTV would keep the oil from leaking out. So which one is it? My BA10 is sreeming at me, especially at higher RPMs (+2500). I want to make the change this year.

It will drop fairly easily. You may need a rubber mallet to "pursued " it. Don't use a metal hammer. Like asked above, "is it pump" or is it the sending unit or gauge?

It is in the oil pan. How hard is it? Not very difficult. It is just MESSY, time consuming and MESSY. If you've never done this before, schedule 4 to 6 hours from start to finish. You will need a replacement pump, oil pan gasket and oil. A new filter could be installed, since you have gone this far.

I've not heard of anyone having bad luck with Luk. :laughin:

You tube link Correction: It is a 2000 TJ. It is almost 2 hrs.

The 6 nuts that hold the tcase to the trans are a PITA to get to. I have dropped the two together. Since the OP is just changing the clutch, he can just slide the two back out of the way. No need to remove them from under the truck. That way he can just slide them back together. However, separating the two makes them lighter to work with.

I swapped a trans in a CJ7 last fall. I had never done anything like it before. I read up a lot on what to do and searched Youtube for other videos. (There is one on YT where a guy changes the clutch on a YJ. It runs approx. 1.5 hrs. A good watch.) I first rented a trans jack for $20 a day. I kept if for 2 days - $40. Others have used regular floor jacks with cradles to hold the trans/tcase. Harbor freight sells one for under $100. I have since bought this. (I had to drop the CJ trans again and plan on changing out the BA10 on the MJ soon.) Since you have not done something like this before, plan on multiple days to complete. Find level ground. Preferably on a hard surface Raise the truck both front and rear on jack stands. This will give you more room to work under. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the starter motor. 2 bolts and one wire. Disconnect both front and rear drive shafts from tcase. Disconnect the hydraulic line from the slave cylinder at the bell housing. Have a container to collect the fluid. Disconnect the backup light wire from trans. Disconnect the vent hose, speedo vacuum lines from the tcase. From inside the cab, remove the trans shifter. It may require removing the center console and other parts. The tcase shift linkage will just pop off with a screw drive or pry bar. Now the serious fun begins: Place a jack stand or jack under the oil pan. Use a block of wood so as not to damage the pan. It will help to have a second support under the bell housing of the trans. When you remove the trans support bracket, all the weight of the eng/trans/tcase is on the oil pan. Remove the trans support bracket. Place the trans jack under the trans/tcase. Most of the weight is toward the tcase, so place it toward the rear to center the weight. There are four bolts that hold the bell housing to the motor. The top two are reverse torx head, so have the proper sockets. You can search on here for the size. (When you have those out, take them to a hardware store and find hex head in the same size. Throw the old ones away!) You will need a long extension for your ratchet, or long, skinny arms to get the top bolts out. The lower two bolts are easy to get at from under the truck. There other bolts that connect the bell housing to the dust shield. These are easy to remove. DON'T FORGET TO DISCONNECT THE CPS. It is probably easier to unplug the wire in the engine bay and leave it attached to the bell housing. A tip I found was to let the trans jack down some while letting the motor tilt. This will give you more room to reach the top bolts. Don't let it tilt too far or the fan blades will hit the radiator. (If I missed a step please correct/fill in.) Now slide the trans/tcase back. The pressure plate is staring you in the face. When you reinstall, be sure to use the clutch alignment toll. If the clutch disk is not properly aligned, the trans will not go in properly. You will need to loosen the pressure again....and again...and again. Ask me how I know. Don't let it intimidate you. It is just a bunch of bolts and wires. Good luck.

where did you get the spring? part no. What steps is the FSM missing? On mine, the ratchet slips. It just doesn't hold for shoot.

:drool: waiting for more.

The yellow plugs in the engine bay are for engine diagnostic connection. These are for pre-OBD scanners. Snap-On makes (made?) a scanner, MT2500, you can find on Ebay. The blue relay under the dash (I believe) is the horn relay. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

This was for sale on CC 4 yrs ago. http://comancheclub.com/topic/26324-comanche-rear-receiver-hitch-dfw-tx/ No "Z" or "C" bends. Just 3 holes to mount to the outside of the frame rails.