87MJTIM

Possibly the wrong water pump. The blade finns are reversed. Take it back to where you got it and have them look up for your yr and model. If their computer doesn't have MJs tell them it's an XJ.

do you think it is too late for mine? :)

87s did not have the ballast resistor.

Starter. Lights have dimmed because you drained the battery trying to start the engine.

You should use a CPS for the renix not the three wire

I am not sure of the oil level in a 2.5 (4.0 is 6 qts.) The little bit of oil dripping out from any leak would hardly be noticeable on the dip stick. For the trans oil level, I would still suggest draining the old gear oil and measure how much came out. My searching shows the AX5 (like the 15) takes 3.3 qts. I you get less then 3 qts. there's your problem. If it is the trans, dropping it and the tcase are fun! Buy a trans jack.

The OP said in post #3, he has an "inline 4." I assume that he has a 2.5L 4 cyl. That means he has either an AX4 (4spd) or AX5 (5spd). So all references to an AX15 may not apply. The oil coming through the bellhousing could be dirty from the dirt that accumulates in the BH. Smelling it may have a sulfer scent. That would tell if it is gear oil or motor oil. However, the PO put in motor oil, then it would not pass the "sniff test." If the OP doesnt know when the trans oil was changed previously, it is a good time to change it. Measure how much comes out. Compare that amount with how much it holds. Look that up on line based on the trans. That may indicate a leak in the trans. If the oil out is approx. the correct volumn, then go back to the valve cover, oil filter adapter, oil pressure unit, dizzy. To change a RMS, it is MESSY, time consuming and MESSY. I doesnt require a lot of special tools. Mostly sockets sets, jackstands, rubber mallet and about 6 hours (if you have never done this before.) Oh, did say it is MESSY!

Growing up, my dad had a late 60s Waggy and a 43 MB (never got it running.) 87 MJ - Current DD. 91 XJ - Traded for a 00 Durango (currently, we should have kept the XJ) 98 TJ - Traded 84 CJ7 - Current project. Driveible, but needs TLC

Mine did this once before. Turned out to be broken water pump. Driving was fine because the water would circulate itself while moving. Once I stopped, the water stopped circulating. Next possibility would be e-fan. Check the temp switch and the relay.

I don't know. It would depend on the year of the cluster the PO installed. Earlier years had one type of speedo connection. Later models used electronic speedos. The other gauges may have changed also

That looks like the sender unit. You also need the temp sender.

The PO may not have changed the temp and oil sensors to senders.

Where in the DC area? I can thankfully say that I'm FROM PG County. I live in Frederick County now.

What Frank said. Unless you or a prior owner changed the trans, you would have the BA 10/5 with an internal slave cylinder. You can change the master cyl without have to change the slave.

I could not get the filter up thru the top with the oil pressure unit, cannister and cable in the way. I tried numerous ways to get it out. When I unscrewed the filter, the oil would drain out on to the starter. I had to crawl under the truck and pull the filter out from around the starter and LCA. PITA!!!! I turned it so the filter points down. Most of the oil drains back into the engine. The little that does run out can be caught with a rag. The filter originally came with the filter pointed down.

When my engine was rebuilt, they turned the adapter to the rear. The only way I could remove the filter was from under the truck. PITA!. The excess oil would spill out on the starter. I turn the adapter upwards (filter pointing down.) Much better.

Ballast resistor? When it gets hot, it can stop working. Try bypassing it by connecting the wires together. My 2 cents

I just saw a craigslist for Winchester VA selling an AX15 and tcase from a 96 - $100!!!! http://winchester.craigslist.org/pts/5088882871.html

Trans is 75-90 gear oil. I was told by a trans repair shop to use Pennzoil Syncromesh. I don't know about the ATF grades.

I kinda answered my own question. I just want to see what others have done.

Getting the parts together for the AX15 install. The AX came from a '98 XJ, so it is ext slave. What have others done for the clutch hydraulic conversion? My choices are to purchase a pre-bled master/slave system. Rockauto sells some for around $125. Or I can get just a slave and hydraulic line for about the same price as the whole system, and keep the master cylinder that I have. The problem with the second option is that I don't know the bore size on the master, so I don't know what bore size slave to get.

Fluid coming out of the tcase is normal. Don't worry. You should drain the fluids from both the trans and tcase before dropping them. This will "lighten" the loan and reduce the chance of spills. The NP231 takes ATF. I don't the quantity, though. Any maintenance you can perform "while I have it off" is a good idea.

Bobolink, you are showing you age with the previous reference. "Everybody was Kung Fu fighting. Those kicks were fast as lightning."

You can put the jack stands under the axles. They will not be in the way for dropping the trans. The shafts will slide right out of the tcase. The breather lines just pull off, unless someone put a clamp on it.

RTV is cheep. i may put it on for the insurance value.