87MJTIM

Replace gear oil? For winter you may want a thinner oil.

If the diff cover looks like a WW1 helmet, then I'd say its a AMC20

That's not 3" of lift, then. "Lift" is a change upward from the factory ride height. Eagle, you are correct. I should not have stated that I have 3" of lift above original factory ride height. I should have said that I have 3" of rise above the 25 yrs old sagging height. My measurement is an estimate. I did not take before and after height changes. I est. 3" because I had installed 2" spacers up front and still have a slight rake (more than original),

2" spacers up front. It now has a slight rake.

I got the GS MT springs - 3:2 configuration. They gave me approx. 3" of lift Some of that was returning the sag the old leafs had lost. Before w/ old springs: New springs: The ride is a lot stiffer. When I run over penny, I can tell you which side is facing up.

The serp belt is a common noise maker. Also, check the harmonic balancer. That's the large pullie at the bottom the front the belt goes around. When this is going bad, it will squeal. Belts are inexpensive and (relatively) easy to replace. If the noise persists, check the HB. (PS - complete your profile with MJ details. Yr, eng, trans, any modification by your or the PO. Also, give your location: City, State/Province, County) Oh, welcome to the addiction!

My parts manual only has 87 as the earliest year. For 87, there were two types of speedos used, with different part nos. for each (of course). These part nos. are for both the 4.0 and 2.5 2wd. The first one listed as "A", describes the screws on the face of the cluster being slotted screws - #5300-1990. The second one listed as "B", describes the screws as phillips head - #56300-4592. This is used for 88 and 89. I don't know if this helps or not. The OP said he has an 86 2.8.

The cable for cruise threads on to a speed sensor. On the other side of the spreed sensor, a short cable threads on to it then goes to the back of the speedo. The ends for a long cable w/ cruise are different from the long cables w/o.

The cowelsproduct has a Chevy S10 3-3/8" 38-260. That is the closest to the original. The factory striping had the chrome strip centered on the molding. The above example has the strip shifted higher.

Prior Owner Did he install a trailer wiring harness? This is common problem for taillight issues

Thanks for the link My bodyshop used the molding from a Chevy, either a S10 or 1500. I can't recall It is not a perfect match. The chrome strip is off center

Did the PO wire in a trailer harness? Sounds like a wiring issue?

Assuming the 90 is also a 4.0, the trans and matching tcase will bolt right in. You cannot use the tcase from the earlier years for a later year trans (21 splines vs. 23 splines). You will need the trans crossmember from the AX15 and the tcase shift linkages. The front driveshaft will fit. The rear DS from the XJ WILL NOT fit (But you should already have the DS from the 2wd to 4wd you did earlier.) The clutch system and pedals will bolt in. (Don't you already have pedal from the original MJ?) The 90 XJ AX15 will have the dreaded internal slave cylinder. You should search for a bellhousing from a 94+ XJ that will have the external slave cylinder. (Unless the PO changed trans previously.) Others may comment about other items I misssed.

Including the original purchase price of $13000 and the restoration of approx. $15000, adding in misc incidentals, I have about $30000. When I was having the resto done, people would ask me why didn't I just buy a new truck. I would respond back: How much would a new truck cost? $30000 to $35000? $30k spread out over 27+ years is a small cost of ownership. It's a Jeep thing. They just don't understand!

General Springs. KC, MO. http://www.generalspringkc.com/ I got'em. They added 3" to my SUA MJ. July '14 MJOM.

I saw a video that had the bearing on the diff going bad. It would make a high pitch whine. That would make sence at higher RPMs. Lift the truck on jackstands and put it in gear and listen for the noise.

Does it happen with the rev'ing of the engine? Does it only happen when in gear? Is it louder at higher RPMs? Is it more noticable in one gear vs. another? It may be bearing in the trans or possibly the diff.. I have the same issue when the trans is warm in 1st and 2nd. Not in the higher gears. I hear it when the RPMs get above 2500.

J320 8377

If you have not downloaded the 88 Electric Manual yet, here is the link. http://comancheclub.com/topic/12083-electrical-manual/ This has the complete wiring for the 88 MJ.

YXMJ, Thanks. That will help me in my search. I saw on craigslist a ZJ being parted out. The picture still had the axle on it. I did know if it would be worth looking at.

Jeep Driver, Your prior suggestions started me thinking. I am not able to do this conversion yet. But, If I get a non-CAD D30 for a later swap, I wanted to know what to model to look for. I see there are "cosmetic" differences - larger/smaller axles, beefier u-joints - but are there diff from width, control arms, and/or springs. I sure the XJ would be a direct swap. Would a D30 from a WJ ZJ TJ have diff control arm and springs that I should look for instead?

Resurrections: Are the non-CAD D30s the same across all/most Jeeps? Do I need to look for one from an XJs or can I look at ZJ, WJ, YJ, TJ? I got to thinking about changing from a 3.07 to 3.55. The front would be easiest to swap axles. For the rear, I would upgrade the R&P. I am not going to search for a D44 with 3.55. If I get an 8.25, it will need to be welded to fit the MJ. Since I would have to pay someone to do all that work, I would be in the same cost as upgrading the D44.

I was part of the group order in Feb '13. I paid $150 each. The total, including u-bolts, eye bolts and shipping, was $422 to my door.

It's "eazy-peezy-lemon-squeezy." Took me 1 hr. I also installed HE lights.

Maybe I'm losing my sense of spatial orientation but ... does a tapered shim in that position do ANYTHING to change the caster or camber angle? I need to go out and look more closely at my pile of old axles, because I don't think that shim does anything other than to make the front end dangerous. I was told the shim is to adjust the caster. I have 2" spacers up front. HOWEVER, this was not done to the passenger's side?!?!? Background to this whole issue: In May, the left axle seal blew out. Gear oil spilled out all over the LF wheel. The 1st shop had to remove the wheel and axle to replace the seal. While they had it apart, I asked for an alignment. And so, my story began.... Follow up to the follow up: The ball joints were perfectly fine. The original shop to do the alignment did not tighten the nuts on to the threads. The current shop told me I was very luck that the wheel did not come off. I now have to wonder why the 2nd shop just did check the ball joints to begin with, rather then tell me I needed new ones? (I need to convince my wife I need a lift and tools to do the work myself. I don't see that happening in my lifetime.)