87MJTIM

Same question; different thread. Alright. After reading and re-reading CC and other Jeep forums about the lighting upgrade, I now understand it is not a replacement wiring harness, but a supplemental harness. This got me thinking of doing the same upgrade to my 84 CJ7. The question I have is the wiring harness long enough to stretch from the battery - passenger's side firewall - to the driver's headlight?

Alright. After reading and re-reading CC and other Jeep forums about the lighting upgrade, I now understand it is not a replacement wiring harness, but a supplemental harness. This got me thinking of doing the same upgrade to my 84 CJ7. The question I have is the wiring harness long enough to stretch from the battery - passenger's side firewall - to the driver's headlight? (I know this is an MJ forum, but all the smart and knowledgable people are here.)

Sorry, I did not specify. The tip needs to be .75" wide, not depth.

You need an .75" tip. Do the various tools list the ID of the bearing/bushing?

Check your speedo itself. Pull the gauge cluster. Get a drill with a square tip bit. Needs to be small. Fire up the drill while looking at the speedo. If it doesnt work, first reverse the direction of the drill. If it still doesnt work, you need a new speedo. Go back the JY and pull the full clusters from the parts XJs. The system is pretty simple. Three moving parts: gear, cable and speedo.

Ok, I am bringing this back from the dead. Driving home tonight just as it was getting dark. Put my lights on - to be seen, not to see. Pulled in to my drive way and with my lights shining on the garage door, I could hardly tell they were on. My truck is totally stock. What are all the parts I need get for this upgrade? Suggestions on brands and where to purchase? Harnness, lights, switch, light-cans, anything else?

I saw an AX15 bell on CL with fork for $70. Maryland area, though. Edit: Lancaster PA (due west of Philly, due north of Balt, MD) http://lancaster.craigslist.org/pts/4565280126.html

The cable length is different from 2wd to 4wd. The 2wd attaches to the trans. The 4wd attaches to the tcase. It shouldnt matter if its manual or auto. (Correct me if I am wrong, please.) Go back and get the 2wd auto cable.

Looks like the internal cable broke. You may have purchase new one. You could get one from the JY. When you order, make sure you specify if you have cruise control or not. The cruise system has two pieces. You should look for XJ cables. Many auto parts stores and online stores sometimes don't reference MJs. Also, make sure you select cable from 87-90. In 91, the speedo went electric, not cable.

Afaik the ax15 was the only manual that came with the 4.0 for that yr. As for changing the input shaft, I consult my favorite repair manual - YouTube!

I had purchase an "OEM" from either Quadra or Morris - $10. It broke with in a few months. Now it spins like a top on the post. I should have saved my $$. I like the feel and look of the original. All the others people have don't appeal to me. No offence. I have a CJ and do like the look and feel of that. But, I am hesitant to repeat the same mistake from Q and M. I ve tried looking at auto parts stores and Wally World. Let's just say, I am not their target customer with their selection.

Omit #2 if it is a 2wd.......... :thumbsup: You are corret. I didn't think to ask that question. Thx.

The AX15 is a direct bolt in trans. However, there are two issues you need to research beforehand. First, look for an AX15 from a 94+ XJ. These came with the external slave cylinder. You could get an earlier model and change the bellhousing and internals. Second, the t-case that mates to the BA10 has a 21 spline input shaft. The AX15 has a 23 spline output shafts. So, you will need a matching t-case to go with AX15, or swap the input shaft on the t-case. Additionally, as thejim42 mentioned, the crossmember for the AX15 is differnet from the BA10. To recap: 1. Get a 94+ AX15 with bellhousing. 2. Get matching t-case (or change input shaft) 3. Get AX15 crossmember.

I purchased the General Springs with the military wrap. I got about 3" of lift from the old sagging leafs. My only issue is that when I run over a penny, I can tell if Abe had trimmed his beard that day. They are (currently) very stiff. I added 2" pucks up front to even out the look. It now has a mild rake.

If it was leaking from the radiator, I assume you have an open system. I have a closed system. When I've heard the load "bang" it was the cap on the reservior bottle blowing off. If you have the reservior bottle, get the new cap. See Cruiser's reference to the NAPA cap.

I think he is asking about the trans to transfercase connection.....the motor would not be in the equation.....but your years are correct. That was when the trans to tcase spline count changed - for the 4.0. When the spline count changed for the 2.5, I don't know. If he gets a NP231 from an early 4.0, that will have the 21 splines.

I don't know about the 2.5, but the 4.0 changed from 21 to 23 splines when the BA 10/5 was swapped for the AX15. That was mid 89.

BEE-UU-TIF-FULL!! Congrats.

Correction: 3181 units sold. http://www.comanchemj.1hwy.com/photo6.html Look under the history tab.

I remember reading that the 92 units sold were approx. 3800, but that most of the units were assembled from left over parts from 91. By 92, Chrysler had decided to stop production on the MJ.

Here's a link for the full 88 electric manual. It not a 90, but it is Renix. http://comancheclub.com/topic/12083-electrical-manual/

The 88 did not come with a v6. It would have come with a 2.5/4 cyl or the 4.0/6 cyl. The PO must have done a complete eng/tran/tcase swap. The stock trans that takes a tcase could not work with removing the tcase. Find out what eng and trans are installed. Just my 2¢

BTW - you will need to add the t-case along with the tranny. Your old tranny is config'd for 2wd and will not accept a t-case. As for all the electrics, there are numerous write up on the Renix to HO conversion. Look in the DIY section or do a search on here.

You could put in the t-case and the D30. Just don't hook up the drive shaft. When time and $$ are available, either swap axles with a 3.55 or get the D30/3.07 re-geared. (or leave it 2wd until you find the proper axle.)