87MJTIM

I am only aware of the ID changing from ~.5" to ~.75" You may have the wrong PB. Go to your local auto parts store and get one there. Take with you both the original and the replacement one. Good luck. Without being there to look at it, I cannot think of anything else.

If the ID is correct and the OD is correct, then I think you just need a hammer and big socket to drive it in. The wick is a piece of cloth (or similar material) that is pushed in behind the PB. It may not be in yours. It is soaked in oil and keeps the PB lubricated.

can you slide it on and off the input tip? Did you keep the old bushing to compare to the new? Did you remove the wick from the engine? Just tossing out ideas. I would recommend getting a caliper that can measure inside and outside diameters. It is very handy.

Rockauto has the part listed with the ID .75" and the OD 1.05" Check your PB for proper size

What year was the jeep the AX15 came out of? The trans input shaft diameter changed post 96 (?). There are write up on here about using the PB for a 74 CJ5, 304 cu in.

I didn't do the work. The bodyshop cut the pans to size for the holes in the floors. The profile next to the trans tunnel didn't match. I cannot remember which was wider.

Bought mine from Z&M http://stores.zmjeeps.com/floor-pans/ They did need modifications.

OP - from your post, I assume that English is not your native language. Please take no offense. Put in your account info your MJ (yr, engine, transmission, other options and upgrades). Also, include your location. As for a camera, you could get a GoPro sport activity camera. Then you can purchase one of several different mounting brackets. Some mounting brackets are designed for different sports: surfing, skiing, bicycling, etc. I have seen on car shows that use suction cup and a snake post. I am not sure I would use that under a shaking truck. I saw one that is for bike riding that clips around the handle bars. This would be more secure for your purposes. You would need to angle the camera to video tape the axle/wheel/tire.

I got the general springs with the 3:2 military wrap Before with factory springs After with general springs The front has 2" spacers to even out the lift

There are several threads about headlight conversions on CC. I just did the HID upgrade a few weeks ago. http://comancheclub.com/topic/38541-headlight-wiring-harness-questions/page-2

Thx :thumbsup:

From a '87 Electrical FSM (I tried to rotate it, but photobucket would let me.)

OK non Jeep: 2005 Honda CRV 220,000

To do this swap, I guess you are going from a BA10 to the AX15, you will need the cross member and the t-case shift linkage. The cross member is diff from the BA to AX. Also, (I have been told on this forum) the shift linkage is also diff. I don't know if it is because of the BA/AX change, or a change in the t-case in later years. Rockauto sells the bushings. You should get one for a 74 CJ5 with a 304 V8. There are several write ups on CC about the BA10 to AX15 conversion.

Ok, slightly off topic...but not too far. My 84 CJ7 has a Dana 300 t-case. The FSM says to use the same oil as the trans. The D300 is gear driven, not chain. So, is it OK to use 10-30 in the D300 t-case?

It was both the harnness and headlights.

FINALLY GOT THE UPGRADE DONE! This was a relatively easy process. Original lights, low beam After upgrade, low beam Before, high beam After, high beam I have not taken it out on the road yet.

General Spring KC, MO http://www.generalspringkc.com/Leaf_Springs_Jeep_Comanche_s/1954.htm They offered CC discount.

What about Pennzoil Synchromesh? I had my BA10 serviced last year and shop owner told me to use that and not regular 75-90. I am putting an AX15 into an '84 CJ7 and was going to use Synchromesh in that. The trans came out of a 90 XJ.

Parts diagram shows the 2.5 is perpendicular to the starter, 4.0 is parralel (spelling?)

S/B 2 bolts and 1 wire You may have to remove the bolts from opposite sides.

Check the top of the fuse block, just under the MC, inside the cab. Make sure it isnt leaking there. Then replace the MC to be safe.

I did not ask. I left my offer for $500 open, but I won't wait by the phone for a call.

I wanted the parts. I am not looking for a driver.

Went to look at it again. Met the person selling it - not the owner. It started and ran good. But.... Coolant was dripping out of the cap and some connections were loose and coolant was dripping from those. Guy said the radiator was just replaced (???) Valve cover drenched with oil. Blow back? Engine bay and block have not been cleaned since it left Toledo, OH. Body panel under the battery was completely gone. I could see the grass under the truck. The heater core was removed. Guy said the PO had removed it. (So the current owner is not the original owner.) He said the AC worked. Yippy! There is no head liner. Completely gone. Again, PO removed. Said the speedo doesnt work. All other gauges worked. So he said. Told him $500. He said too low. I said if it were 4wd it might be worth more, but it was too far gone for anything but parts. Which is what I would use it for.