87MJTIM

I wanted the parts. I am not looking for a driver.

Went to look at it again. Met the person selling it - not the owner. It started and ran good. But.... Coolant was dripping out of the cap and some connections were loose and coolant was dripping from those. Guy said the radiator was just replaced (???) Valve cover drenched with oil. Blow back? Engine bay and block have not been cleaned since it left Toledo, OH. Body panel under the battery was completely gone. I could see the grass under the truck. The heater core was removed. Guy said the PO had removed it. (So the current owner is not the original owner.) He said the AC worked. Yippy! There is no head liner. Completely gone. Again, PO removed. Said the speedo doesnt work. All other gauges worked. So he said. Told him $500. He said too low. I said if it were 4wd it might be worth more, but it was too far gone for anything but parts. Which is what I would use it for.

My wife saw this on the side of the road Saturday. I went out to look at it Sunday. '92 Elimimator, 4.0, auto, 2wd, short bed, gray interior. No spare tire or carrier, passenger front link is snapped (see picture), bed is rusted on both wheel wells, tail gate is rusted. Rear bumper has rust on the bottom, but not too bad. Interior is clean with original radio. Drivers seat has a seam tear. Looks like factory bed liner. Selling as is - with tool box. Asking $1800 OBO. I have not heard it run or drive. Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found I am think $500.

I put on General Springs with the 3:2 military wrap. My back end was lifted approx. 3". I had to put 2" spacers up front to level it off. I am running 235/75/15. July '14 MJOM. The spings are $220 each. They sell a 3:1 leaf for $140. http://www.generalspringkc.com/Leaf_Springs_Jeep_Comanche_s/1954.htm This is before shipping. If you order these, ask for a CC discount.

I was referring to the manual gear boxes. I was not aware that the autoes did not change. Learn something new everyday. Now i can go back to bed.

The tcase switched from 21 to 23 in mid-89 when the BA 10 was discontinued for the AX15. If you are changing to an AX15, then get one from a 94+ XJ. These came with the external slave. The BA10 and 1st generation AX15 (89-93) used internal slave cylinders. It is not a question of "if" the slave cylinder will break, but "when" it break.

273000 original. Rebuilt 5000 miles ago. No real issues, just old and tired. July 2014 MJOM.

I had this same problem a few years ago. It turned out to be the turn signal switch. I had running lights, turns and flasher, but no brake lights. (Reverse has not worked in years.)

My thoughts, too. Maybe something is restricting the exhaust. The back pressure chokes the engine and kills it. Once the pressure drops, you can restart it. Just my 2¢

Bassed on those years, the trans will bolt right up to the 4.0. As for the Tcase, if the D30 has the two piece CAD, you can perform the CAD fix (search in the DIY section) and the vacuum line are not necessary. If the D30 is from a later year (don't remember when) the CAD was eliminated, so the same rules apply.

So, back to your original question: As long as the 242 has the plug, you will need to check to see if your existing wiring has the appropriate harness and your cluster has the lights. You may need to swap gauge clusters. I believe most harnesses were universal, meaning AMC made one type to handle all possible options.

For my education: Is the 242 "Full Time Select Trac" or "Part Time Command Trac"? The FSM has the PT Command operated by vacuum. The FT Select is operated by a mechanical switch.

If I am not mistaken, the front axle 4wd light is vacuum actuated. The light is triggered by a vacuum operated switch on the t-case. According to the 88 electric FSM, the 4.0 auto is wired differently from the 4.0 manual and 2.5 (auto or manual).

Same question; different thread. Alright. After reading and re-reading CC and other Jeep forums about the lighting upgrade, I now understand it is not a replacement wiring harness, but a supplemental harness. This got me thinking of doing the same upgrade to my 84 CJ7. The question I have is the wiring harness long enough to stretch from the battery - passenger's side firewall - to the driver's headlight?

Alright. After reading and re-reading CC and other Jeep forums about the lighting upgrade, I now understand it is not a replacement wiring harness, but a supplemental harness. This got me thinking of doing the same upgrade to my 84 CJ7. The question I have is the wiring harness long enough to stretch from the battery - passenger's side firewall - to the driver's headlight? (I know this is an MJ forum, but all the smart and knowledgable people are here.)

Sorry, I did not specify. The tip needs to be .75" wide, not depth.

You need an .75" tip. Do the various tools list the ID of the bearing/bushing?

Check your speedo itself. Pull the gauge cluster. Get a drill with a square tip bit. Needs to be small. Fire up the drill while looking at the speedo. If it doesnt work, first reverse the direction of the drill. If it still doesnt work, you need a new speedo. Go back the JY and pull the full clusters from the parts XJs. The system is pretty simple. Three moving parts: gear, cable and speedo.

Ok, I am bringing this back from the dead. Driving home tonight just as it was getting dark. Put my lights on - to be seen, not to see. Pulled in to my drive way and with my lights shining on the garage door, I could hardly tell they were on. My truck is totally stock. What are all the parts I need get for this upgrade? Suggestions on brands and where to purchase? Harnness, lights, switch, light-cans, anything else?

I saw an AX15 bell on CL with fork for $70. Maryland area, though. Edit: Lancaster PA (due west of Philly, due north of Balt, MD) http://lancaster.craigslist.org/pts/4565280126.html

The cable length is different from 2wd to 4wd. The 2wd attaches to the trans. The 4wd attaches to the tcase. It shouldnt matter if its manual or auto. (Correct me if I am wrong, please.) Go back and get the 2wd auto cable.

Looks like the internal cable broke. You may have purchase new one. You could get one from the JY. When you order, make sure you specify if you have cruise control or not. The cruise system has two pieces. You should look for XJ cables. Many auto parts stores and online stores sometimes don't reference MJs. Also, make sure you select cable from 87-90. In 91, the speedo went electric, not cable.

Afaik the ax15 was the only manual that came with the 4.0 for that yr. As for changing the input shaft, I consult my favorite repair manual - YouTube!

I had purchase an "OEM" from either Quadra or Morris - $10. It broke with in a few months. Now it spins like a top on the post. I should have saved my $$. I like the feel and look of the original. All the others people have don't appeal to me. No offence. I have a CJ and do like the look and feel of that. But, I am hesitant to repeat the same mistake from Q and M. I ve tried looking at auto parts stores and Wally World. Let's just say, I am not their target customer with their selection.