87MJTIM

What year is your MJ? Which engine? Did it come with factory AC or was it dealer installed? Inquiring Minds Want to Know.

I think the seller if wrong about the pilot shaft. The BA10 and early AX15s used the same bushing. It was the 94+ AX15s that changed the input shaft. Sounds like he swapped the bell housing for you already. I thing $250 is a great deal. You may want to take it to shop that specialized in manual trans and have them test it. Best to spend a little now before you install it a find out its a dud.

First guess: CPS. Try Cruiser's CPS test tip.

ballast resistor going bad? If it overheats it shuts of power to the fuel pump. Try by passing the BR.

My father in law bought an 88 new. Most parts were labeled AMC. But I remember there were some Chrysler stars on some parts.

Shelby - I thought the XJ front drive shaft will fit since the axle and the Tcase came from the same vehicle. True, the rear DS will need to be modified. Lowly - I thought you claimed to have an AX15 already. If so, you just need the BH from the Dakota. If the Dakota has the complete AX15/BH, get them and sell your other AX15.

You can. You will need to locate an elusive AX15 BH from a Dodge Dakota. I am not sure of the years or the engine it bolted to. Search on here for more info.

The AX4 is an AX5, just missing 5th gear.

The AX15 won't bolt up to a 2.5. You will need an AX5.

Somewhere on CC is the 88 Electric Service Manual in pdf. Page 82 of the manual shows what the C317 looks like from front on. It looks like one of your photos. The manual also gives the location: "right rear of rocker cover." Isn't this your location? Page 89 of the manual shows the wiring harness location in the engine bay. The c317 is depicted in the center of the engine bay. I don't know if yours has cruise. It could be part of the wiring harness. Download the manual and look through.

Cruise control ground? connector C317 Solid black wire?

To bleed the brakes, you star at the cylinder farthest away from the master cyl. first. So, you bleed right rear, left rear, right front, and left front. If your MJ still has the load sensing valve, then you need to perform additional steps to bleed those lines. Search on CC for those steps. (I believe it involves opening the RF bleeder, pumping the brakes. This causes the by-pass valve to open. Then you bleed the both rear brakes. Be sure to close the front bleeder when done.)

Before you go and replace the RMS, check other places first for oil leaks first. Check the back of the valve cover. Check the oil pressure sender. Check where the dizzy goes into the block. You may need to clean the engine off, run it for several minutes and check for leaks in these places. Remember, oil will run down to the lowest spot. This is where the oil pan and trans bell housing are. The 4.0 tilts up in the front, so all the oil will collect in the rear. If you eliminate these other locations, then get a FelPro rubber oil pan gasket and RMS. If you will do it yourself, plan for several DIRTY hours. It not too hard, just dirty.

Have you search craigslist? A search in my region (MD/ south PA / WV) has several avail. Mostly asking from $300 to $500.

Ask what year and model the AX15 came out from. The 94+ AX15 comes with the external slave. Also, the 94+ input tip has smaller diameter. It will require changing the pilot bushing. If you do go to external, you may need/want to change the clutch while your in there. Ask what happenned the vehicle it came out from. Was is wrecked or did it just die. If it was wrecked, chances are it was being driven and operating at the time. If it died, who knows why it died. This is not a guarentee it is good, but the odds are in your favor if was operational. Make sure it has the bellhousing, backup light switch and shifter.

Learned something new today.

I think Jeep changed from CAD to one piece in 96. All MJs have the CAD.

Not at all. It is a 10 minute procedure. Besure to have a pan to collect the oil that WILL drip out. Get some gear oil to top off the diff.

I am guessing you mean the CAD bypass. http://comancheclub.com/topic/17377-cad-fix-1/ In the DIY section.

97+ doors will fit with some modification. The door latch/stike plate has to be modified for the later model door. Also, the door panel shape does not line up with the early model doors and fenders. There are some build threads on here where owners have done 97+ front end swap: doors, fenders, grill, front clip.

Much of the interior can be had from an XJ - but not all. The MJ seat brackets are different from XJs. If you get bucket seats, pull them from a 2 dr XJ. These tilt forward, where the 4 dr seats do not. Is the ceiling headliner board still intact? If so, you can get it recovered. Otherwise, the headliner board is unique to an MJ. Someone on CC makes replacement headliners. Search on here. The dashes are the same. Floor pans are different but can be modified to fit if you are handy at metal work. The MJ doors are inter-changalbe with the front doors of a 4 dr (pre-97) XJ. Lots of info on here about lifting the MJ. Google it. My understanding is that the roll bar is unique to the MJ (pls correct me if that is not true). However, other brands can be modified to fit. Again, Google. It is good to hear that someone is saving an MJ. Welcome to the madness.

BE-U-TI-FULL!

Can you give us more detail about your MJ? Is it 4cyl or 6cyl? 4 spd or 5 spd? As for pedal assemblies, the brake and clutch pedal from a similar era XJ will fit. From you description, it sounds like the system needs bleeding. BTW - Welcome to the addiction! :waving:

I doubt your changing the motor mounts damaged the slave cylinder. The internal slave are prone to failure. Like Jeep Drive said, you are going to drop the trans and change the SC. You may want to find a bell housing from a 94+ AX15 (or the whole trans). These came with external SC. These are less prone to failure.

I got this from AM Autoparts. The paddle for the washer fluid broke on my original. This was the only one i could find that included cruise control