87MJTIM

I cut the ends off the harnesses that plug into the trans and swap them. Soldier the BA10 end to the AX15 harness. Then Plug-N-Play.

I am guessing you have the external slave since the trans was from a 95 YJ. Sound to me like either the trans is not lined up properly or the release bearing is bad. If it is the second, then you have no option but to drop the trans. Things to do first would be to look at the bell housing and make sure it is firmly attached to the engine - no gaps and the bolts are tight. Have a helper with you. Start the engine. With the trans in neutral have them press in the clutch and release it. You should get underneath and listen to the sound changes. Note where the noise is the loudest.

You could get a flywheel holding tool like this: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/lil-23800?seid=srese1&gclid=Cj0KEQjwgeuuBRCiwpD0hP3Cg4kBEiQAHflm1jxrTwCHjbWuRRyri80lMSVZDOftN8anXcgFJk1q8BcaAi-t8P8HAQ I'm sure you could find one at an auto parts stores or tool rentals. A less expensive option (ie cheap) is to place a box end wrench (3/4" I think) on the front of the engine crank. Place so that as the engine turns the wrench wedges up against the fan clutch axle. (Maybe stick a piece of wood between the two.) This will stop the crank from turning more. You will need to back the engine back some to relieve pressure on the wrench when you are done. I did this when I swapped my CJ7 trans.

Keep the Renix flywheel. (Renix = 87 - 90 Jeep 4.0L engines.)

I've seen someone rig up a 9v bat to use a tester. Try googling that. It will provide enough power to light up the display.

Use the crossmember from the Cherokee.

There is thread on CC about this issue. I believe it is a 78 CJ5, 304 Pilot Bushing that fits the the Renix engine and a later AX15. (At least I hope so. That is what I purchased from Rockauto for my conversion.)

There is an old thread on CC about this. If I recall, someone would fix the old. On mine, the LED doesn't light up (most of the time). Occasionally, I'll over at it and it is lit up...and it still keeps accurate time! Most people just pull one out of an XJ. But they're almost as old as the MJ clock.

The RMS is two pieces. If the parts guy gave you on one piece, take it back. Here is the NAPA part: http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Rear-Main-Seal-Set/_/R-FPBBS40612_0147549720 As ParadiseMJ said, rent a puller from the parts store. I got one from PepBoys, part #27059. Look like: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/oes-27059?seid=srese1&gclid=CMntr5OjwMcCFUQSHwodKN8FuQ The two fingers grab the PB from the inside. The bigger end threads on to a slide hammer. A couple of good firm tugs and it (should) pop out.

Sorry. I read your response again. Bearings get greased. Bushing get soaked in oil.

On the parking brake pedal, there is a plastic piece with two pieces of copper attached (mine was light blue, but I've seen other colors). When the pedal is pushed down the two pieces of copper contact each other. This closes the electric circuit turning on the light. When the pedal is up, the copper pieces are pushed apart, opening the circuit - no light. Inspect the plastic piece. Once mine was dirty and the two piece would contact make through the dirt. Cleaned it off - no light. Now, the plastic part is broken. No light. If the wire is not connected to the plastic part and is contacting the body, this closes the circuit and your light is on all the time. This is a "ground switch." The hot wire runs through the light and the switch (on/off) in on the ground wire.

:hijack: My wife and I are original owners. I agree. I would not sell mine! I love my MJ.

I believe your trans is from a 95. The pilot bushing that came with the clutch should fit. Try sliding it over the tip of the trans input shaft. It should slide on with no slack. Be sure to soak it in oil over night before installing.

Are the wire harnesses from the 86 or the 94 ZJ?

Old bumper and Fey bumper, side by side. Fey bumper installed. The Fey was the closet to original I could find. I don't remember the price, but it was under 200US$ delivered.

I got that from a Jeep service manual. I thought it was low, too. I did some more googling and found from 27 to 40 for the PRESSURE PLATE. The flywheel is 110 lbs.

23 ft lbs

For replacing RMS http://comancheclub.com/topic/45246-rear-main-seal/

AX15 ~3.5 qts 3.27 NP231 ~1 qt

See changes above

The NP231 take automatic transmission fluid (ATF)

Replace rear main seal on youtube bleepinjeep: Some other guy: Replace clutch on youtube - almost 2 hrs, so make some popcorn

For the pilot bearing (PB), you can rent a PB puller along with a slide hammer. The rental is free as long as you return the parts. To drive in the new PB, you will need a punch the size of the PB. I used a cheap spark plug socket the proper size. Just pound it in. To install the clutch disk and pressure plate, be sure to use the disk centering tool. It come with most clutch kits. When you attach the pressure plate be sure to tighten the bolts in a star pattern. As you do this, make sure the disk has not moved from position. If it has moved, you will NEVER get the trans to line up. You will need to loosen the pressure plate and start again. (Ask me how I know. :doh: ) The clutch is the same for both MJ and XJ as long as it matches the year of the trans.

Krusty, you built a good bumper to factory specs. The Fey bumper is not factory. So, the modification had to made to the Fey. I documented what I did to get it to work. Others may try diff mods. StrokerMJ commented about flipping the L bend around. I am not sure how he would do this. (I am not a welder.) Based on how all the parts bolt together (the Fey bumper fits inside of the brackets) I cannot see how the L bend would fit at all. The Fey brackets get sandwiched between your bracket and the frame at one end and your bracket and the bumper mount at the other. There is only room for flat stock metal.

I finally got the new hitch installed this weekend. Here it is the day UPS delivered it. I wanted to paint it with Por15 first so it would never rust. Here it is after painting with Por15 and some flat black from a rattle can. Next, I removed the Fey bumper and brackets. I knew the Fey brackets had an L shape to them for added support. This L shape bend will get in the way of the new hitch. Since I will not be use the bumper for towing (I never would have anyway), I cut the bend off. I thought I could only cut part of it off. But, I ended up cutting the whole bend off. Here are both brackets cut, ground down to remove the sharp edges and spray painted. After some fiddling and sweating, I got the hitch and brackets installed. This thing is heavy. I could have used a helper, but got it up with the aid of a jack and the crates you see. I got the bolts that Krusty included. The original bolts from the Jeep brackets and the Fey brackets are not long enough to fully thread on. Here is the final product, all the bolts tightened down. Now, I need to install a 4- or 5-pin wiring harness.