87MJTIM

Including the original purchase price of $13000 and the restoration of approx. $15000, adding in misc incidentals, I have about $30000. When I was having the resto done, people would ask me why didn't I just buy a new truck. I would respond back: How much would a new truck cost? $30000 to $35000? $30k spread out over 27+ years is a small cost of ownership. It's a Jeep thing. They just don't understand!

General Springs. KC, MO. http://www.generalspringkc.com/ I got'em. They added 3" to my SUA MJ. July '14 MJOM.

I saw a video that had the bearing on the diff going bad. It would make a high pitch whine. That would make sence at higher RPMs. Lift the truck on jackstands and put it in gear and listen for the noise.

Does it happen with the rev'ing of the engine? Does it only happen when in gear? Is it louder at higher RPMs? Is it more noticable in one gear vs. another? It may be bearing in the trans or possibly the diff.. I have the same issue when the trans is warm in 1st and 2nd. Not in the higher gears. I hear it when the RPMs get above 2500.

J320 8377

If you have not downloaded the 88 Electric Manual yet, here is the link. http://comancheclub.com/topic/12083-electrical-manual/ This has the complete wiring for the 88 MJ.

YXMJ, Thanks. That will help me in my search. I saw on craigslist a ZJ being parted out. The picture still had the axle on it. I did know if it would be worth looking at.

Jeep Driver, Your prior suggestions started me thinking. I am not able to do this conversion yet. But, If I get a non-CAD D30 for a later swap, I wanted to know what to model to look for. I see there are "cosmetic" differences - larger/smaller axles, beefier u-joints - but are there diff from width, control arms, and/or springs. I sure the XJ would be a direct swap. Would a D30 from a WJ ZJ TJ have diff control arm and springs that I should look for instead?

Resurrections: Are the non-CAD D30s the same across all/most Jeeps? Do I need to look for one from an XJs or can I look at ZJ, WJ, YJ, TJ? I got to thinking about changing from a 3.07 to 3.55. The front would be easiest to swap axles. For the rear, I would upgrade the R&P. I am not going to search for a D44 with 3.55. If I get an 8.25, it will need to be welded to fit the MJ. Since I would have to pay someone to do all that work, I would be in the same cost as upgrading the D44.

I was part of the group order in Feb '13. I paid $150 each. The total, including u-bolts, eye bolts and shipping, was $422 to my door.

It's "eazy-peezy-lemon-squeezy." Took me 1 hr. I also installed HE lights.

Maybe I'm losing my sense of spatial orientation but ... does a tapered shim in that position do ANYTHING to change the caster or camber angle? I need to go out and look more closely at my pile of old axles, because I don't think that shim does anything other than to make the front end dangerous. I was told the shim is to adjust the caster. I have 2" spacers up front. HOWEVER, this was not done to the passenger's side?!?!? Background to this whole issue: In May, the left axle seal blew out. Gear oil spilled out all over the LF wheel. The 1st shop had to remove the wheel and axle to replace the seal. While they had it apart, I asked for an alignment. And so, my story began.... Follow up to the follow up: The ball joints were perfectly fine. The original shop to do the alignment did not tighten the nuts on to the threads. The current shop told me I was very luck that the wheel did not come off. I now have to wonder why the 2nd shop just did check the ball joints to begin with, rather then tell me I needed new ones? (I need to convince my wife I need a lift and tools to do the work myself. I don't see that happening in my lifetime.)

I used a dolly to tow it to the bodyshop. Then put it on a flatbed to pick it up. I have a Chevy sub 2500 8.1 liter.

Thanks for all the comments and suggestions. Currently, I am not looking to swap axles. Maybe in the future. I have a D44 in the rear which I am not willing to give up. Maybe change the R&P to a 3.55 at which time I will get a non-CAD D30 from a later model XJ. My original question was what the first shop did to my knuckle to "fix" the alignment. That (apparently) has made the problem worse. For right now, I am getting the current problems fixed. Thanks again. I really do appreciate the comments and suggestions.

Correct me if I am wrong, but the 3.07 was all that came with the 4.0 5spd. That is a pretty "common ratio."

Diff's are 3.07

Follow up: The wobble has gotten worse. The alignment is WAY OUT! I have eaten through my front tires. I took it to a tire shop to have new eyes look at it and get two new tires. The guys there looked at the "work" done by the prior group and cringed. What ever the prior guys did only made the problems worse. Now, they say they cannot adjust the camber because the ball joints are bad. Also, the shims that were installed should not have been on the bottom of the knuckle, but on the top ( :dunno: ). We'll see what the final out come is. (Most mechanical work is done by a client. We barter services. He sent the truck to another shop to have the alignment done originally. I didn't pay $$ for the work. I guess I got what I paid for.)

Perform that CAD elimination steps. Look in the DIY section. By doing the CAD fix, you can eliminate the vacuum hoses. http://comancheclub.com/topic/17377-cad-fix-1/ (edit: I tried to make the link from my office computer, but it wouldn't allow me.)

Just west of you - Frederick. :waving:

Exactly what I was thinking. Was the XJ running before you cannibalised it? When was it running last? How old is the fuel? Did you take the MJ parts and put them on the XJ? Which parts? My 2¢.

Since you getting the tcase from the donor, get the shift linkage. My understanding is the profiles between the BA and AX are diff. The old linkage won't line up correctly. The trans cross member and mount are required, also. Because you are change from an internal slave system to an external slave, a new hydro system is needed - master, line and slave. Since the 98 had an electronic speedo, you need to adapt the cable system for you 88. I am not sure you need to change drive shafts. You are not changing from 2wd to 4wd. Your existing DS will fit the new setup. You do not need any adapter for this swap.

The cap alone is worth a few 100.

Champagne Metallic - original Jeep color (for our northern neighbors: colour)

I'm in. I know there are other Frederick County, MD members. Where are you?

Hopefully, after you've finished the job. :yes: