87MJTIM

He has to take all the easy stuff off first. So, while he's in there, changing the head gasket is just one more thing. :laughin:

Here is a link to the 88 electrical service manual. Save it! http://comancheclub.com/topic/12083-electrical-manual/

The is no fuse. There is a relay under the dash, left side by the fuse panel. Some of them are blue. (Yes, there are beaches in WV. Just not ocean beaches.)

Hope to see you (and the MJ) at the York PA All Breeds Jeep Show next year. http://pajeeps.org/ July 15 - 16, 2017

I asked because the internal is a combined slave/throughout bearing. These things have a shelf life of milk. I have not had issues with a release bearing for an external. Do you have the correct pressure plate? An incorrect PP may be contacting the bearing causing it to wear prematurely. my 2¢.

Internal or external slave? I have a Luk bearing for both my MJ and CJ (external slaves). I've had not problems. I have read on CC and elsewhere if you want a quality internal slave, you need to go to a dealership.

http://baltimore.craigslist.org/cto/5833473203.html If this is the one, it is a SWEET truck! I may not be a good judge of prices, but $6500 is high. Given it is 2wd, I would start around $5k and see if he will come down. Just my 2 cents (That shade of blue is what we wanted when we bought ours, but it wasn't offer on the Laredo package.)

The tcase input shaft is different. The output on a BA10 has 21 splines, the AX15 has 23. You will need to get a matching tcase or rebuild the old. The SYE is the tcase output. Nothing to do with the transmission There are other changes you will need: the cross member, will you switch to external slave?

I bought them for both my MJ and CJ. No complaints.

Working at No Such Agency?

Here is a link to an 88 factory electrical service manual. http://comancheclub.com/topic/12083-electrical-manual/ It should assist you with all things electrical on your 2.5

You need an AW4? I have one from a 93 XJ. North, central MD.

You can find a Factory Service Manual (FSM) on Morris4x4center.com Scroll to the bottom of the left side column for Knowledge Base. The second section in the center is Online Repair Manuals. In the pull down box, select Jeep Cherokee, the year 1996 - 2001. The categories have different sections to the FSM. Find the section you need and download the pdf.

I don't know about the rockauto one. On mine, I had purchased a different one that "supposedly" fit the MJ. I wasn't even close. I search several other threads looking for a replacement. That how I found the TJ version. It was a near perfect fit. The difference was probably due to it being Chines Replacement Auto Parts that the on-line retailer sell.

If I recall, the XJ inner-boot doesn't fit. I purchased this several year ago. It is a shifter boot from a TJ. It was "almost" a perfect fit: http://www.quadratec.com/products/55014_0949_14.htm

From the 88 electric manual: Connector 2, pink wire: power feed from fuse panel "Dome Fuse 10 amp" Connector 3, black wire: direct ground. When you rock the courtesy light either up or down, the light turns on. Connector 1, black w/ white trace: provides ground through light switch when resistor is turned up/on. The dome light has a ground side switch, not a power side switch.

http://www.cherokeeforum.com/how-tos/a/jeep-cherokee-1984-2001-how-to-replace-dome-light-399029 Seek and you shall find

I had a 91 XJ with the same center, overhead console. I don't remember how to (or if I ever) changed the light bulbs.

Is it a complete loss of all power - engine shuts off and light go out? Check the CPS.

There are lots of write up on here about this. I did this swap last year (I did a thread). Here is a (partial) list of the parts you will need. Get the trans cross member from the donor. The BA will not fit properly. Get the fork that is inside the bellhousing. Get the tcase shift linkage. It is positioned differently than the BA (same tcase, just positioned differently). You should change the clutch and pressure plate to a 97 model. Search RockAuto. You will need a pilot bushing. The 97 trans input shaft tip is .75" vs. the BA is .5" You will need to get a new slave cylinder. Consider buying the hydraulic kit: it includes the master/line/slave all in one. Search Rockauto. Do not get the kit for 98+. The master cyl will interfere with the brake booster. I am sure I am leaving things out. Good luck. I love the AX15. I got rid of the stupid internal slave cylinder.

Bringing this back from the dead. Yesterday, I stopped at a store. I parked directly in front of the window/register of the store. While waiting at the counter, I saw a young man (he was probably early 20s) walking in front of the window. He stopped to look at my MJ. He pulled out his cell phone (no one has camera anymore) and proceeded to photograph the truck from three angles. He walked away from the direction he came. By the time I got out of the store, he was gone.

I recently changed my bushings (only took 29 yrs). I pulled the unit out without a problem. Changed one bushing at a time. Went to put the unit back in.... It took me a LONG time to figure out how to slide it back in to place. :fs1:

Congrats!

Just a note: An auto, AW4 is longer than an AX15. The front drive shaft will need to be shortened or a manual trans front drive shaft will be needed.

Mine has been running at 160* for years. That's after two 'stat changes. I figured it was the temp sending unit or the gauge. A cluster swap with diff gauge did not change the temp, thou. On one really hot day this summer with the AC running, the gauge did creep up close to 200*. Then I guess the e-fan kicked on and the temp dropped back to the new normal. Perhaps I will search for a "Motorad" stat. Edit: Maybe not. A search of their website does not show retailers in the mid-Atlantic.