87MJTIM

Pulled some parts from a 90 XJ, 4.0, 5spd Heater line vacuum elimination, battery tray, ECU and a hood prop rod support (the little part between the ECU and batt tray) ECU

Vermont Casting has very good (and $$) wood burning stoves. We have one in our basement. When we get that thing up to temp, we have to wear shorts and tshirts in winter. They have a model that heats 600 sq ft. http://www.vermontcastings.com/Products/Aspen-Non-Catalytic-Wood-Burning-Stove.aspx Your dad can heat other rooms by putting box fan in the sun room and blowing into other rooms in the house.

We've all done that. :oops:

Clogged cat?

I live in California East - The Peoples Republic of Maryland. I am a born-and-raised Marylander. I have visited other states - mostly east of the Mississippi - but never lived in any of them. One day, I will proudly say "I am FROM Maryland."

So was Bill C. (college deferment in England my @$$)

Is that Ted in the middle?

:clapping: :thumbsup: :cheers:

A line that would P-off most Canadians is: Canada, the 51st state. Now, it may be: California, the next province. Some (loonies)(not the coins) in California are calling for secession from the US: Caliexit. Prior to the start of the American Civil War, a legislator from South Carolina (where it started) said that SC was too small for a country, but too large for an insane asylum. It sounds like history repeating itself.

You sound like an Ex-Pat. :rotfl2:

That's one thing I forgot. Thanks.

The rear drive shafts will need to be adjusted to proper length. You have a short bed vs. long bed AND 2wd vs. 4wd. They all have diff DS lengths. If the 88 was originally auto, then the axles are probably 3.55. The 90 with a 4.0 5 spd would have originally had 3.07. So, you will need BOTH axles from the 4wd. The BA10 is not bad for most street use. If you are looking to take it off road, then consider upgrading to an AX15. If you upgrade, you will need the matching tcase with the AX15. Or, you will need to change the tcase input shaft. (The BA10 takes a 21 spline tcase, the AX15 takes a 23 spline tcase.) Additionally, you should get the shift linkage for the tcase. It is diff from the one used for the BA10 tcase shifter. There may be other issues to address that I cannot recall.

There are Americans that don't know how our system works. This is frightening. What's more frightening is they vote!

A 4.0 auto would have come from the factory with 3.55 in front and rear. A manual would have come with a 3.07. It looks like you one of each. Math: (3.55-3.07)/3.55= 13.5% That is close to 1/8th (12.5%) Was the truck originally 4wd? Is the front axle CAD or non-CAD? (Is there a "box" on the passenger side with vacuum lines connected? Yes=CAD, No=non-CAD) Was it originally auto? manual? Swapping from one to the other along with one axle may be the problem. Edit: All 4wd MJs came with the CAD front axles.

Old tires? How old? Were they sitting for a long time flat? Tires could be bad from age and sitting flat. Did you change the rims, also? If so, is the new (old) rim damaged - warped or not round?

To our friends in the Great White North, will build and pay for a wall to keep us Americans out? (Note: the Great White North is for the snow. It is not a comment on the racial composition. I do not want to be called a white, male, republican [which I am].)

He wasn't my first choice, but given his opponent.... Most people voted No. "No! Not that person."

I hope you're not driving in 4wd on drive pavement. You probably have an NP231 tcase. This is a part-time 4wd, not full-time. If you have an NP242, that is full-time 4wd.

You have a base model (6th digit), 4wd (5th digit), 4.0 (8th digit). It came with an AX15, with an internal slave cylinder.

Unless a PO changed trans, you would have an AX15 (assuming a 4.0). That's a good trans. :thumbsup: Check Rockauto.com for part no. and prices.

What yr and trans? Luk kits have been good to me.

I had some of the same symptoms once. Turned out to be a clogged cat. If you still have a cat, you may want to check it.

Perhaps it needs a prescription for Viagra. (Sorry, couldn't resist.)

Start with the easy stuff. Check all the connectors. Clean them off if dirty or corroded. Check light ground connectors. Dirty contacts or loose connectors will cause the lights to cut out. After that, then look at the light switch on the dash. It is know to fail over time. Put in your signature a description of your truck: Yr., engine, trans., 2 or 4wd., any modifications done (lifts, axle swaps, etc.). It will assist us with diagnosing your issues.

Based on your signature, you have a 2.5L, 4 sp. Bear in mind, I am referencing he 88 electrical manual, but the power to the back up lights runs through the TCU fuse in the fuse panel. That fuse should only get power when the key is in Run/Start. Three parts that have power in Accessory mode are the blower, flashers and radio. (Lights are hot all the time.) Focusing on the flashers, the only common connections are in the tail light harness. So is a wire exposed in the tail that is making a contact with the BU lights? (There is a additional wire that run on Access, but it stops in the back of the fuse box. Unless a PO had tapped that at some time.)