87MJTIM

Wouldn't the gauge read even with the ignition off then? No. The fuse panel is powered from the Ign switch only in the Run and Start positions.

You can replace the "pump" for your MJ with a Bosch pump. HOWEVER, the sending unit is unique to the MJ and NLA (no longer available). Here is the write up on changing the pump. http://comancheclub.com/topic/45860-bosch-aftermarket-fuel-pump-installation/

I had done a quick search on Rockauto, but did not see J bolts with fuel tanks, etc. So, I went to Morris, just for the part no.

Morris Jeep 4x4 (for an XJ) http://www.morris4x4center.com/fuel-tank-strap-bolt-52100362ab.html

You probably have an XJ sending unit. It is not compatible with the MJ tank. The units face opposite directions. Does the gauge drop as you drive? The wiring may be crossed. I remember reading that Renix and HO jeeps are wired opposite. There is a thread on CC on rebuilding the pump/sending unit.

Did you lose two of the pistons or are they still in the engine? :D

Here's what my aftermarket looks like: I've tried pulling it back behind the flare: no luck. It just slide back out. I tried a little heat (not much, I did not want to damage the paint), with similar results. I have just given up. (Sorry for the blur. I took it at night. My phone must have been drinking.)

I was going to say a JY. Most likely, these are factory parts. Aftermarket ones don't always fit properly. (Chinese Replacement Auto Parts)

Also, get the front drive shaft. Your rear drive shaft will need to be shortened to allow for a tcase addition. Get the tcase shift linkage from the donor. The clutch kit changed from internal set up to external. You will need to swap the clutch and pressure plate. Purchase a kit that matches the trans year, not the truck year. You will need to change out the pilot bearing/bushing. The trans input shaft tips changed from 1/2" to 3/4".

I did that several years ago, along with the tcase. I put on an ext-bell housing. It is now bolted to a 93 4.0 going into my 84 CJ (FrankenJeep).

Have you replace the master cyl? Could be leaking post the plunger. edit: just read your other post. Nevermind

Pulled some parts from a 90 XJ, 4.0, 5spd Heater line vacuum elimination, battery tray, ECU and a hood prop rod support (the little part between the ECU and batt tray) ECU

Vermont Casting has very good (and $$) wood burning stoves. We have one in our basement. When we get that thing up to temp, we have to wear shorts and tshirts in winter. They have a model that heats 600 sq ft. http://www.vermontcastings.com/Products/Aspen-Non-Catalytic-Wood-Burning-Stove.aspx Your dad can heat other rooms by putting box fan in the sun room and blowing into other rooms in the house.

We've all done that. :oops:

Clogged cat?

I live in California East - The Peoples Republic of Maryland. I am a born-and-raised Marylander. I have visited other states - mostly east of the Mississippi - but never lived in any of them. One day, I will proudly say "I am FROM Maryland."

So was Bill C. (college deferment in England my @$$)

Is that Ted in the middle?

:clapping: :thumbsup: :cheers:

A line that would P-off most Canadians is: Canada, the 51st state. Now, it may be: California, the next province. Some (loonies)(not the coins) in California are calling for secession from the US: Caliexit. Prior to the start of the American Civil War, a legislator from South Carolina (where it started) said that SC was too small for a country, but too large for an insane asylum. It sounds like history repeating itself.

You sound like an Ex-Pat. :rotfl2:

That's one thing I forgot. Thanks.

The rear drive shafts will need to be adjusted to proper length. You have a short bed vs. long bed AND 2wd vs. 4wd. They all have diff DS lengths. If the 88 was originally auto, then the axles are probably 3.55. The 90 with a 4.0 5 spd would have originally had 3.07. So, you will need BOTH axles from the 4wd. The BA10 is not bad for most street use. If you are looking to take it off road, then consider upgrading to an AX15. If you upgrade, you will need the matching tcase with the AX15. Or, you will need to change the tcase input shaft. (The BA10 takes a 21 spline tcase, the AX15 takes a 23 spline tcase.) Additionally, you should get the shift linkage for the tcase. It is diff from the one used for the BA10 tcase shifter. There may be other issues to address that I cannot recall.

There are Americans that don't know how our system works. This is frightening. What's more frightening is they vote!

A 4.0 auto would have come from the factory with 3.55 in front and rear. A manual would have come with a 3.07. It looks like you one of each. Math: (3.55-3.07)/3.55= 13.5% That is close to 1/8th (12.5%) Was the truck originally 4wd? Is the front axle CAD or non-CAD? (Is there a "box" on the passenger side with vacuum lines connected? Yes=CAD, No=non-CAD) Was it originally auto? manual? Swapping from one to the other along with one axle may be the problem. Edit: All 4wd MJs came with the CAD front axles.