87MJTIM

The OP said he engine came from a 98. I thought the "dreaded" 0331 was '00 and '01. I may have the years wrong. If it is a 0331, then make it a boat anchor.

Depends on where you are and the condition of the head before work. I just spent $350 to fully recondition the head from a 93 XJ. (Actually, it was bartering. I was told that was the value.)

Whether you keep the existing head or pick up one from a JY, you should at least have it looked at by machine shop. This way you will know if its any good before proceeding with it.

I guess I meant to say that the current Fel Pro gaskets will fit the older engine blocks: 4.2 and early 4.0.

I just searched Auto Zone, Advance Auto and Napa. All three list the Fel-Pro gasket. I don't know if these stores are near you, thou. Prices ranged from $20 to $30. I was told by parts-jockey that the oil pan gasket has not changed from the '70s until the end of the 4.0 in 2006. So, this part should be easy to source.

You have not said what yr your MJ is, nor what it has (engine, trans, mods, etc.), so we may be guessing. Based on the 88 electric FSM, the Inst cluster lights are powered by an org w/ blk wire from the light switch. The light switch is hot all the time. The Instr fuse is 5 amps (88 FSM).

The wiring harnesses for both the 2.5 and 4.0s have three plugs: 1) front window washer pump (MJ/XJ), 2) rear window washer pump (XJ only) and 3) washer fluid level indicator (XJ only). Do you possibly have the wrong connector plugged in? The two pump connectors are both "T" shaped. The level indicator is flat. The wires for the front washer pump are Violet w/trace and Blk. Just a thought.

The credits at the end give away the year...you just have to perform Roman math.

Found this on Youtube. Must be 89 or 90. Here is how I guessed: Chrysler Lee Iaccoca No C101 under the hood Closed cooling system

You need to perform the cruiser54 procedures on your Renix. www.cruiser54.com Welcome (again) to the insanity that is ComancheClub. :cheers:

If I recall, someone on CC offered to rebuild the pump/sending units. I don't know if they're still a member on CC or if they still offer the service.

you are correct: no PDC in a Renix. The whole cluster is powered by one wire (Wht/Blk) from the fuse panel. I don't see a way to isolate the Volt meter from the other cluster gauges.

A source for a selection of FSMs is Jeep4x4center.com. Scroll to the bottom of the left-hand column. Select: Jeep Community - Jeep Knowledge Base. In the "Online Repair Manual" section, select your vehicle (Jeep Cherokee) and the year (1996-2001). You can then download different sections as it relates to your specific needs.

Wouldn't the gauge read even with the ignition off then? No. The fuse panel is powered from the Ign switch only in the Run and Start positions. So, what's the plan? Why did the guy in the link go to the trouble of using a relay? :dunno: I was looking at the 88 Elect manual and trying to follow the guys instructions/directions. I was lost. From the 88 manual, the wire feeding the Ign switch also feeds power to: pwr windows, starter circuit, blower motor, and wipers I would cut the Yel wire from the Ign switch. This wire powers the gauge fuse and the TCU fuse. This wire would charge the relay (86) when the ign is turn to Run or Start. I would run wire from the batt to the power relay (30). The second half of the Yel wire would feed power to the gauge fuse (87). This way, you would isolate the gauge cluster from all the other components, but still power it with the key on Run/Start. (I am not an electrical engineer, but on paper it looks like it would work. Of course, Communism looked good...on paper.)

Wouldn't the gauge read even with the ignition off then? No. The fuse panel is powered from the Ign switch only in the Run and Start positions.

You can replace the "pump" for your MJ with a Bosch pump. HOWEVER, the sending unit is unique to the MJ and NLA (no longer available). Here is the write up on changing the pump. http://comancheclub.com/topic/45860-bosch-aftermarket-fuel-pump-installation/

I had done a quick search on Rockauto, but did not see J bolts with fuel tanks, etc. So, I went to Morris, just for the part no.

Morris Jeep 4x4 (for an XJ) http://www.morris4x4center.com/fuel-tank-strap-bolt-52100362ab.html

You probably have an XJ sending unit. It is not compatible with the MJ tank. The units face opposite directions. Does the gauge drop as you drive? The wiring may be crossed. I remember reading that Renix and HO jeeps are wired opposite. There is a thread on CC on rebuilding the pump/sending unit.

Did you lose two of the pistons or are they still in the engine? :D

Here's what my aftermarket looks like: I've tried pulling it back behind the flare: no luck. It just slide back out. I tried a little heat (not much, I did not want to damage the paint), with similar results. I have just given up. (Sorry for the blur. I took it at night. My phone must have been drinking.)

I was going to say a JY. Most likely, these are factory parts. Aftermarket ones don't always fit properly. (Chinese Replacement Auto Parts)

Also, get the front drive shaft. Your rear drive shaft will need to be shortened to allow for a tcase addition. Get the tcase shift linkage from the donor. The clutch kit changed from internal set up to external. You will need to swap the clutch and pressure plate. Purchase a kit that matches the trans year, not the truck year. You will need to change out the pilot bearing/bushing. The trans input shaft tips changed from 1/2" to 3/4".

I did that several years ago, along with the tcase. I put on an ext-bell housing. It is now bolted to a 93 4.0 going into my 84 CJ (FrankenJeep).

Have you replace the master cyl? Could be leaking post the plunger. edit: just read your other post. Nevermind