87MJTIM

It's a southern thing, you wouldn't understand. ;) Hey, I'm south of the M-D line! Born and raised. (Not by much...but still south of it.)

BUMMER. Is the sending unit compatible with FI?

Is that "parked" on its side?

I was planning on send you the 2.8 :brows: Yes, it would be nice if it had an AMC20. I will look for it.

This 86 MJ is in a local JY. I saw it a few years ago. The shop was using it to run around through the yard. It looks like they ran it into the ground. https://frederick.craigslist.org/pts/6196549836.html I thinkin': Rear fender flares Fuel pump/sending unit Bed rails - for my truck Rear window? Anything else I should get? Noted in picture: Driver's side tail light has a hole Tailgate is dented

Yes, I saw that.

https://winchester.craigslist.org/cto/6181100884.html $6000 too rich for me, but nice looking.

If you're a 90 then you are not OBD. You have a Renix Jeep. In order to read the codes from the ECU you need to get either a SnapOn MT2500 scanner with the Jeep card and adapter plug or search on Facebook or Youtube for "Nickintime." He makes a Renix Engine Monitor (REM) the can read and display the codes in real time. Unfortunately, for either of the above monitors to work with a Renix, the engine has to be running. :doh: So, until you solve the first issue (getting it running) neither device will do you much good.

How old is the lower rad hose? It have an internal wire/spring to keep it from closing/collapsing in on itself. If the hose is spongy or the spring has rusted away, the water pump can cause the hose to close, thus restricting the flow of coolant. The low speed and higher RPMs of climbing could increase the vacuum of the water pump. If you are not sure of the age/condition of the hoses, it may make sense to change both hoses when you have the system serviced.

Do you have an auxiliary fan? If so, does it turn on when the temp rises? check the radiator temp switch or the cooling fan relay.

Follow up: For the oil pressure gauge, I borrowed a pressure tester to see what the oil psi is coming from the engine. I disconnected the wire and unscrewed the sending unit. I connected the tester. I turned the key to run. The needle on the gauge rose straight up to 80 psi. That tells me the gauge is working. Started the engine. The needle on the tester bounced from 54 to 60 psi with a cold engine. Gave the engine some gas and the needle held steadier at 60 psi. Does this indicate a bad sending unit? or am I missing something. The other gauges seem to be working (except temp).

photobucket isn't working Edit: Finally got it to work. PhB takes too long to load all the adds and pop-ups Blue: Red:

Where does someone like me find one of those "thingies"?

My MJ came with full gauges in blue. Several years ago, I swapped out the gauges to the red ones. I have changed my mind and want to go back to the blue ones. However, some of the gauges do not read correctly (oil and temp). The red OP gauge was reading pressure at 40 - 60 psi. The old blue is reading <20. When I turn the key to start the engine, the OP needle buries far down to the left. The temp gauge has always read low (could be the sending unit). I will use the blue tach and speedo. Can I swap the faces from the blue on to the mechanical parts of the reds? I tried to pull the needles off the red units but could not get the to pop off. Do I need to pull harder? (Before you comment, all the clusters I have [4] are renix era, blue cases, cable drive speedos. Two AMC, one Chryco, and one not sure.)

Thank you. Now I can sleep comfortably at night. :laughin:

Could be, Maybe I'm looking at it upside down :laughin:

Please fix the front grill cover. It is upside down.

Parts, parts and more parts. Parts is parts. I'm not looking to drive it. I just want the parts. Pw windows & locks, cruise, ECM, any sensors and wiring harness.

The one I am going to look at (if the person calls me back. I did speak with him) is an XJ. One of the photos on CL clearly shows the tcase shifter with "2wd-4full-4part-N-4low"

I can always hope.

Thanks. I know what to look for. I thought (hoped) that a 44 was a factory default for 242. I will find out this weekend.

I am going to look at an '89 XJ with a 4.0, automatic and a NP242 transfer case. The owner says it is original not modified, so the axle gears are 3.55. I know (believe) that the front axle is a Non-CAD Dana 30 - Good. What would the rear axle be: Dana 35 (bad) or Dana 44 (good)?

Look higher up on the engine...look at the valve cover.

Not likely, Mine are factory installed. The tow mirrors require an internal bracing to support them. It is unlikely the dealer would disassemble the door to install the bracing, then install the mirror, THEN reassemble the door.

i also have the 3.07 ratio il6 manual.it does great until i get to a hill which are every where haha.I'm thinking fuel injector since if i give it gas before hill and then hold it and pump down every couple secs it does ok mostly as in holding speed but if its not pumped just right then naw she slowing down not drastically but by the top I'm down to 55 or 50 depending on how big hill is.the injectors look twenty years old haha time to change em Sent from my LG-V410 using Tapatalk That's the 3.07. Mine had the problem since it was new...30 yrs ago. Just downshift to 4 and you can get up any hill at 65 MPH.