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Everything posted by 87MJTIM
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CPS. crank position sensor. Search cruiser’s tips
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Strange idle symptoms and a foul exhaust smell
87MJTIM replied to BlackMJ90's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Is your Cat going bad? A blocked exhaust system will cause similar symptoms with the engine. A bad cat will emit a funky smell (so I've heard, never experienced). BTW - fill in your signature with details on your MJ: Yr, engine, trans, 2 or 4 wd, any modifications done to it. -
No Start Condition
87MJTIM replied to JustEmptyEveryPocket's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Correct. The ECU will trigger the ground that will complete the control charge. The relay will not power the FP until that ground is provided. My point being is that if the Org/Blk was cut then the ECU is not "directly" providing that ground. -
No Start Condition
87MJTIM replied to JustEmptyEveryPocket's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Do you have the electric service manual? It's the 88 year, but the wiring for the FP is the same for 87. See page 16, The center top of the sheet is the FP relay. The yellow comes from the ignition switch and charges the control side. The Org/Blk feeds a ground to the ECU. The red comes straight from the battery and is hot all the time. When the control is charged, the relay sends power to the FP thru the ballast resistor (if yours has one). It also sends a signal back to the ECU. If the Org/Blk was cut from the relay, a PO must have bi-passed the factory wiring. -
No Start Condition
87MJTIM replied to JustEmptyEveryPocket's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
The Org/Blk wire from the relay feeds a ground signal to the ECU. If that wire is cut, the fuel pump relay will not send power to the FP. A PO may have made a work around that you have undone with your new FP. -
To make the purists (I am one) happy would be to buy a junk XJ and swap the front fenders. Keep the originals intact and cut up the replacement. (Or keep the replacements for future use.)
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I watch the first episode. Looked interesting, but he spent a lot of time setting up for the testing. Tried watching the second episode. After falling asleep while the guy continued to set up for testing, I lost interest. Someone let me know how it turns out.
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Must be something in the MJ that is causing this. You're #2 with a child. Congrats!
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Shirt looks like a CJ5. He could probably reach the pedal now.
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Congratulations! (Pink hat - girl, correct?) My little girl just went off to college this year. The year's will fly bye rapidly.
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1. The default fuel trims are 128. ST adjusts faster. LT adjusts based on the ST trend. Fuel trims <128 = rich condition; >128 = lean condition 2. The O2 heater relay operates on 12v. The o2 sensor operates on 0v - 5v. It should keep jumping from low to high. 3. I routed the wire along the firewall, over the booster, then through a hole in the top of the firewall next to the fuse box. I then routed under the dash into the back of the ash tray, where i have the REM sitting.
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Mine came stock with 225/75/15. When I upgraded to 235s, my speedo was off 3+/- mph. If yours came from Jeep with 215s (stock size on some models), then your MPH may be off 5+/-. http://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/transfer-case-parts/np-speedometer-gears edit: if you changed your tire size but didn’t change the speedo gear accordingly, your MPH will be off
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Here's a thought - has the OP changed out his speedo gear? Since 235/75/15 was not a stock tire with the MJ, if he still has an original gear installed, he may be reading a lower MPH than he is actually running (ask me how I know this). So, if his speedo shows 70, he could be +5 MPH higher. Faster speed = higher RPM My 2¢.
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Brandon, If you make the rockers and/or cab corners, put me down for each side.
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Gotta quit buying these things..
87MJTIM replied to Amccutc21's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
I hope that was the guy I connected you with. -
That's what I thought (and was afraid of) from prior experience. I guess I will pound that sword into a plowshare.
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I purchased a driver's side rocker panel from Z&M Jeep a few years ago at the York Jeep show. I have not used it yet. I have held it up against the original. It looks about right. I can post a picture later. (However, if it matches the way a bed side panel I purchased previously did, I may have a nice piece of scrap metal.)
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Because that is what mine came with from the factory. Someone asked me once why I drive an old truck. "Why don't you buy a new one?" I said, "they stopped making then in '92." The person then gives me puzzled look.
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I have not had any problems with the closed system, either. Yes, I have replaced the pressure bottle a couple times over the last 31 years. I did purchase the Volvo cap. I was changing all the hoses so I figured I might as well delete the HCV while I was there. I have read that new cars are getting the closed systems again.
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How do I keep the e-fan WITHOUT having to wire in a manual override switch? EDIT: I have read and watch Youtube videos (Nickintime converted to open) that indicate the newer radiators do not have the e-fan switch bung. That was why I did not want to make the conversion. Is it correct that the radiators do no have the switch bung?
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Factory Spare Tire Jack Question
87MJTIM replied to AZJeff's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
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Does any one know what this is?
87MJTIM replied to Ryno's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
I believe it is NC. When you push in the clutch, the vacuum opens, thus disengaging the CC -
Does any one know what this is?
87MJTIM replied to Ryno's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
It is the vacuum disconnect for clutch pedal to disengage cruise control
