87MJTIM

1.Beatles 2. Beatles 3. Beatles I love all their music. I really like the early stuff. I mean the really early music: Anthology, BBC Recordings and the Star Club Hamburg tapes.

Get a plastic milk container or a 2 litre soda (pop for some people) bottle. Cut the bottom off the bottle. Put the long handle screw driver in to the pour end of the bottle. Now you have a "speaker" to listen for the sounds. Plus, you don't have to put your face close to the screw driver.

Can we get more info? Is the fan not working? Is AC not working? Is the heater not working (I don't know why you need heat in August)?

Safest? 2nd driver, 2nd tow vehicle, two U-haul dollies. Pay for the gas and food for the 2nd driver.

ZM Jeeps out of Toledo OH sells rocker panels. I picked up both sides at the York PA Jeep show for $40 each side, but that was a show price - no tax, no shipping. I have not had them installed, yet. I cannot vouch for the fit. BTW - do not order the MJ bed side panels!!!! The wheel well openings are not stamped for the flares.

A local PNP has a the above on its lot. It's internal slave, though https://www.lkqpickyourpart.com/locations/LKQ_Pick_Your_Part_-_Mount_Airy-208/recents/ PW PL Rocker front seats gone

I believe it involved a vice and a BFH

The BA10 was installed from 87 to 89.5. It uses the 21 spline shafts. Halfway through 89, Jeep (Chrysler) switched to the AX15 with the 23 splines. I know this was true for all manual MJs and XJs for the years. I don't know if the YJs got BA10s for those years. A 4wd AX15 will require a 23 spline tcase. (The BA10 has the distinction of have the shortest use period for any Jeep as far back as '41.)

I’m guessing it’s iDeal MSC6K single post lift

One connects to the transmission, the other goes to the transfer case (if you have 4wd).

In order to see what the computer sees, you should purchase a Renix Engine Monitor (REM) from www.nickintimedesign.com. This will let see how all the sensors are functioning/ or not functioning. Also, check out Cruiser’s Renix Tips at www.cruiser54.com. As for the bucking issues, does yours have a cat? How old is it? A clogged cat caused similar issues for me (although across the whole RPM range. Welcome to the addiction. Beautiful MJ. complete your signature: year, engine, transmission, any modifications made to it and your location. That way when people read your posts they can see what you have and where you are.

Does it start and run if you give it gas? if so, could be the IAC.

60? Such a youngster. If you take care of it, it will last another 340k.

Who won in Comanche class?

Thanks for the cookout, Nick great to to meet other CC members.

What a "Motley Crew".

I should arrive 10 AM (approx.)

Jed and Jethro Clampett must be driving. Grannies' rocking chair is up on top.

I have (accumulated) 4. Two 87-88(1 manual [original] and 1 auto) and two 89-90 (1 manual [bad?] and 1 auto).

I have the REM scanner in my truck. I had the O2 volt, Open v. Close Loop, ST and LT fuel trims constantly displayed. The O2 volts was constantly around 12v. At start up, after approx. 2 min., it would switch to closed loop, then quickly switch back to open. There it would stay. Naturally, I thought the O2 sensor was bad/going bad. I joined in on another thread about O2 sensors. I had recently replaced it approx 1 ago. I thought it couldn't be bad, yet. Based on feed back from Ohm in the thread, I tested the sensors that tell the ECU to switch to closed loop: MAP, MAT, CTS, and the O2. I changed one of the displays to show Rich/Lean. It constantly registers Lean, and would not switch to Rich. I used the Renix Fuel Injection manual and www.lunghd.com for proper testing steps. All of the readings registered within the normal operating ranges. (I didn't write them down, but used the scales from the two sources. SO DON"T ASK ME THE READINGS.) Since all the readings came back "normal," I looked upstream at the ECU. A few years ago, I had swapped in a 90 ECU. I decided to re-install the original 87 ECU. I did this last weekend. Since then, the REM is showing that it switches to closed loop, the ST fuel trim goes up and down, and the Rich/Lean reading is now switching. So, to make a short story long, it looks like the ECU was/is bad.

Last night I picked up a new radiator. May be a few weeks before I can make the switch

I don't remember seeing a club membership question.

Yep. There is a rubber liner that wears out over time. The outer ring will start to drift apart from the inner ring. It will eventually cut the belt and/or the timing cover. You need to change the harmonic balancer.

The pickup needs to trim the rear fenders to fit the tires.

Wahoo, That is why I have not bought from Amazon. I don't like dealing with returns/refunds. My local NAPA has one in stock (NR2802) for $120+tax. Advance Auto can get it (Carquest 432335) for $113+tax. It's funny how the pictures of each one are EXACTLY the same.