87MJTIM

Thanks Cruiser. I was looking at that radiator. I was also looking at: this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CSQZ78X/?coliid=I3AYJVTE1SCNLV&colid=3QJUU79LEEST7&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it or this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C7S062/?coliid=I275C4Z7OZB8R7&colid=3QJUU79LEEST7&psc=1

I've been watching with interest. I thought it was time I joined in. My e-fan does not turn on when the temp rises above 215F. It only gets hot when idling or stop-n-go driving. Highway driving it runs ~200F I know the fan works. When I turn on AC, the fan runs. I have tested the wiring for the fan. With KOEO, I jump the relay - 30 to 87 - and the fan turns on. I know the relay is good, because the AC kicks on the fan. I unplug the coolant temp switch and jump the harness side wires and the fans turns on. So, all the wiring from the coolant temp fan switch back works as the factory intended. I am guessing that the switch is bad. However, it is "relatively" new. I replaced it less than two years ago because the old one wasn't turning on the fan (parts cannon). Both radiator hoses were replaced at the same time. I am considering changing the radiator. It's approx 20 years old. (Still running closed system. Possible switch to open system.)

I am in.

Congrats! My wife and I are on house #2 and dog #6. Kid #1 just hit 19 yesterday.

The factory light has a weighted switch (mercury?) that closes when the hood is opened. The light turns on. When the hood closes, the switch opens = light off. You will have find a similar type light, or include a manual on/off switch.

Comes up next to the reservoir bottle- Renix. Runs into a wire harness near the relays.

I have the original window sticker I display. Other than that, just me and the MJ.

That's only a 28-Comanche flag.

Thx, Cruiser. My MR277 manual does not have that IS.

Was there a TSB for this? I have the service manuals.

Volvo 746 injectors

Never installed. Original owner

I will switch the display to show R/L condition Yes, I know it means the ECU reading rich. Stuck open or leaking FI?

No. ‘87 didn’t include one

Pretty steady. It was dropping but just 0.1 v every couple seconds. I left KO for 10 seconds

BTW I have a '90 ECU I have not performed the C101 elimination (yet) The REM shows the O2 sensor moving up and down, but it will stay at or near one reading for long time spans: 2.0 or less and never (or very seldom) higher. It stays in open loop most of the time. When it does switch to closed loop, the O2 sensor will swing from high to low. Also, fuel trims will drop below 128. (I guess that is good, since the ECU is trying to cut back on fuel consumption. Increased gas mileage.)

Just did these three tests C229 A-B: 5.7 ohms C229 B to ground: good, all zeros, not OL C229A KOEO 11.8v, (Battery shows 12.5v)

I thought most relays were NO, unless marked NC. Or is the wiring setup to account for NC condition?

I found the same part on Jeff Bezos's site, but is shows metal not ceramic.

I am reading the Renix Fuel Injection Manual for O2 sensors, pp 41-43. The last paragraph on p. 41 reads: The oxygen sensor heater relay is controlled by the ECU. When the ECU determines high exhaust gas tares and exhaust gas oxygen sensor heating is no longer required, the ECU completes the relay coil ground circuit. When the ground circuit is completed, the relay contacts open, and the exhaust gas oxygen sensor is disabled. Does that mean the relay is Normally Closed? If so, would swapping relays around mess up the operation of the heater relay and O2 sensors?

I'll try those tests later the is week.

The REM is registering 11.9-12 v from the heater relay. I do not recall testing the sensor end from the heater relay. Since the O2 sensor is getting power, I guess the heater relay is providing the power. (See 88 wiring diagram, 4.0L page 16.) What other test should I perform on the O2 system?

I don’t remember exactly. I think it was ceramic. I remember it was different the current one, which is metal.

I am having issues with my O2 sensors as well. I had the NTK, also. After a few weeks/months, the REM show the O2 voltage holding steady at ~2.3 to 2.4. It wouldn't vary much above or below those amounts. The REM showed I was constantly in OPEN loop. I am on a second O2 sensor now - bosch?. The voltage does move up and down on a wider range, but it is still stuck in Open loop. Does anyone have one that is more reliable? Not C.R.A.P.

Not yet