87MJTIM

You need #5428 for an automatic

You should get a Renix Engine Monitor from Nickintime. Search YouTube or Facebook. He sells a Renix scanner (REM) that will give you engine information. This can help locate issues problems

You want one from a 89-90 MJ or XJ with auto transmissions. I don’t recall the part number. I’ve pulled a few ECUs from auto XJs that I don’t need. Where do you live?

Where do you live? Going on vacation anytime soon?

There are some good youtube videos on the AX15. A series of videos are on RobinsonAuto channel. Lot of detail and the camera focuses on the work, but he makes it as interesting as paint drying. 1. 2. 3.

My dash is cracked. I have a 93 XJ dash, but it is the lighter tan. I don't know where to find a color match to paint it. (Not a high priority in my life.)

Butterscotch? What year? In 87, there were two different shades of "tan/beige." One slightly darker (more orange-ish) than the other. My Laredo has the darker shade. Is that the butterscotch you are referring to?

I’m going to pass on it. For my driving habits, a 242 will not be a benefit. I don’t 4wheel other than some dirt roads to land in WV. Also, I don’t drive on snowy roads. Too much work to convert the input shaft to 23 splines

I picked up one from auto zone

For anybody interested, here is the link: https://www.lkqpickyourpart.com/locations/LKQ_Pick_Your_Part_-_Mount_Airy-208/recents/

That was also an issue I wasn't sure about. I have an AX15 - 23 spline. I would have to switch back to the BA10. I DON'T THINK SO!

Converted to open system today. Before During Out with the old In with the new Plumb up Need a cap - the new rad didn't come with one.

No lift on mine, other than General Springs and 1.75" pucks up front. I have non-CAD D30 up front and a factory D44 in the rear. Running 235/75/15. I did some internet reading last night on the differences/benefits/drawbacks of switching to a 242. Most of the comments suggest that the 242 is best if you live where there is a lot of snow. Here in the mid-Atlantic, we get some snow that comes, then melts away before the next snow fall. It doesn't stick around for long (usually). Maryland likes to salt the roads. So when it does snow, I don't drive the MJ. I want to limit the exposure to rust causing salt. So, the 242 would not be a major benefit for me in the snow. Other comments said the 242 was a good off road tcase, but it was always with an automatic. Mine is a manual. Most comments said that the 231 is marginally better (not my words! don't start a debate). Also, the availability of service/parts is better for the 231 (again, not my words.) So, I think I will pass on getting the 242. I just hate to see good parts for our Jeeps get trashed like this. When ever I see a Renix era XJ there, I pull parts that are specific to that model: ECU, TB, cruise control parts, etc. The XJ has a good condition full gauge cluster and a black dash bezel. (I grabbed the clock and radio. Hello, Minuit?)

I was at my local PNP today and came upon an 88 XJ Limited. It has a really decent grey interior with leather electric seats! The driver's seat has some tares in it. It also has as an NP242! The question is: Do I want (need) it? Is a 242 longer than a 231? Would the drives shafts need changing to account for the difference?

Locked in his truck?!?!?!? Blonde Star to the rescue

The '86 MJ fenders had capital letters to "COMANCHE," while the '87+ letters were "Comanche." (Although, someone on here claimed their '87 came from the factory with "COMANCHE.")

Do you hear the pump prime EVERY TIME when you turn the key on (engine off)? If not, check ballast resistor. Check and clean the pump ground wire (behind left tail light). Yr? Engine?

A few more posts and you can put it in the classified. Is it a Comanche top or a generic? Fill in your signature - Yr., engine, trans., any mods done to it, etc. - and your location. That way if some is local and wants it, they can pick it up.

Lots of discussion about this. I’ve read several posts that 75/90 and 10/30 are similar. 75/90 has additives that give it that wonderful smell. I haven’t used 10/30 yet but I may next time

It should not affect your turn signal. Look at your fuse box. Do you have a blue or black box on the left side? If it is black, then the key buzzer was not active. See the eighth post in this thread:

That’s the “hey dummy, you left your key in the ignition “ warning buzzer contact switch. Many people remove it without a problem

BleepinJeep just posted a video on using Restore.

Museums and colonial history - Philadelphia or Boston. Williamsburg, VA is nice also. Jamestown and Norfolk are close. Richmond is close by, also. DC for museums, but I live close to DC and grew up just outside of DC. Don't like going there.

It depends on what interest you. Site seeing or history? I love Civil War history. I've been to a number of CW sites, but these are all mostly east of the Mississippi. I've been to both CO and HI. I want to go back to CO - western CO. I checked HI off my bucket list. When your son is older - 5 to 10 - amusements parks are great fun. Cedar Point in OH is great for roller coasters. Orlando FL has a park or two - $$. Get out a map and look for points of interest. Check the internet for things to see/do in those areas.

One owner, 32 years, 4th reservoir bottle, lost count of the caps (purchased the Volvo cap - no problems). I purchased a bottle online once. C.R.A.P. Returned it and purchased one from NAPA. Mine has not overheated in years. Radiator is approx. 20 years old. While running it on hot days in stop-n-go traffic, the temp gauge does climb above the mid-point on the gauge. The REM shows engine temp getting up to ~220*F. The efan switch does not turn on until the engine gets to these higher temps. My mechanic has suggested that a radiator that old could have clogged/blocked fins. He recommends changing it. Since I will change the radiator, I want to do what Minuit suggest by cleaning up the engine bay of all the extra hoses. Open system here I come.