87MJTIM

302+

MJ = DD 4 me

Beautiful. An early production 87. The fender badges are COMANCHE. These are hold overs from the 86 models. Also, the hood support post is mounted on the front header panel, not on the passenger side engine bay.

Just turn the Jeep over!

10 slots for me. On another forum, someone wrote that "real Jeeps have 7 slots." Another person replied that the original WW2 MBs/GPWs had 10 slots. I don't remember if there was a reply.

Why do you need an adapter for the BA to AX swap? You will need to get a matching tcase. The tcase for the BA has 21 spline. The AX requires 23 splines. As for the clutch, is the AX external slave or internal slave? If internal, it doesn't matter. If external (AX only) get the clutch kit for the appropriate year AX. Not only is the throw-out bearing different, but the pressure plates are diff (between the int. and ext. kits). When I did my did my swap (to external), I had read that the clutch kit from the BA would work with the AX. It did...but never felt "right." I researched on RockAuto the clutch kits and the individual components (disk, pressure plates). The clutch disk was the same part number thru out the life of the MJ/XJ. The pressure plate part number changed when the AX switched from internal to external slaves. I later swapped the kit to match the pressure plate. Shifting feels better. EDIT What Dan said about the input shaft tip. The early AX has a tip that is approx 1/2", the later years have ~3/4". If you have the later yr. get a pilot bearing for a 74 CJ5 with a 304 engine. The outside diameter and the inside diameter are the proper sizes.

The length of the cable will depend on whether you have 4wd or 2wd. A 4wd needs a longer cable (attaches to the tcase). Also, if you have cruise control, the top end (by the cluster) will have different ends. Since yours is RWD, you should get the short cable.

Ok. Just throwing out ideas.

Yes, I can confirm there is no interference with the drop brackets.

Interior trim pieces, rear panels. Fuel pumps/sending units. Rear fender flares. Brake load sensing valve. Spare tire hanger. Seat brackets. Parking brake pedal. Tailgates and rubber hanger guides. Bed liner? Rain gutters (looks like you got a set) What rear axles are under each one? Just a few that are Comanche specific.

That wire should supply constant power to the headlight switch. Do your lights turn on with the key off? If not, a PO has eliminated the wire from the harness to the switch.

Great write up! Should go into the DIY section.

I put in an open radiator last year. Purchased off amazon. I cannot find the brand, thou. It came with a bung hole for the temp switch. No problems. NAPA sells NR2802.

The 2.5 and 4.0 are different animals. Not compatible. BTW - what happened to the OP that re-started this thread?

I would like to put in a bid for a cruise control tester AM-PC-1.

The knock and temp sensor (that sends signal to ECU) are on the driver's side block, below manifolds. The temp sensor that sends info to the gauge (assuming you have a gauge) is at the back of the head on the driver's side. These are the locations for all Renix years - 87-90. The second picture are the temp and knock sensors. I am not sure what the top picture is.

Get a test light. Put a fuse in. With KOEO, put the trans into reverse. Test the power into the reverse switch, C111, BLK w/ Yel. Test power out of reverse switch, C111, BRW, w/WHT. If no power out of the switch, then replace switch. If both of these are good, move to the rear. Test wire at rear harness C159, BRW w/ WHT. If power getting to the rear, then test the sockets. If any of these do not light the test light search for breaks before the fail point. Between C111 and C159, there are several connectors (C104, 157, 158) that all have BRW w/ WHT wires. Wire breaks or corrosion could disrupt the power.

While you are working on it, you should flip the grill so it is right side up.

I've had similar replies to some CL listings. I didn't even break a finger nail by replying. I just deleted the inquiry and moved on. It is always good to be cautious.

It was the '80s. Every (cheap) effort to increase MPG was implemented. (See front axle CAD.) Also, the 3.07 was offered only in the 5 spd Jeeps. Autos and 4 cyl/4 spd. came with 3.55 and higher ratios. To meet Fed CAFE standards, off-roading wasn't a thought.

The 2wd transmission will not accept the transfer case. So you have to swap the 4wd transmission also. Are both trucks same bed length? If so, drive shaft from the 4wd should swap over (unless one auto and the other is manual). Also what axle in the rear do you have - D35 or D44? That may affect the drive shaft, also. The front axle and drive shaft should swap over without any issues.

Are the instrument gauges compatible between the Renix v. HO? Will you need to swap dash wiring also? IDK.

+1

If the cable is a foot too long, it is for a 4wd Jeep.

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