87MJTIM

You should take up the guitar. It's lighter to carry.

I found this write up to fix the power locks along time ago (in a galaxy far, far away). See the second post in the thread. https://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1874&highlight=door+lock I have not taken the time to make this modification.

I am considered “essential “ personnel. I have not stopped working through the whole pandemic. As self-employed CPA , my clients want their refunds ASAP. Those that owe were granted time until July 15. for me, it is still a reduced “busy season “.

I need to fix the Pwr locks and slow passenger side window.

Fuel pump? Or sending unit? Pumps should fit. Sending units from a Cherokee will not fit. You will have to have the original rebuilt. there is thread on here for a supplier of reproduction units.

You need to keep your Renix flywheel. The HO flywheels will not work with the engine computers.

Are you sure it is an AX15? Didn't Jeep switch to a NV3550 around that time? The NV will bolt up. However, the tcase may not be clocked properly for the MJ. You may have to reclock it. I don't know if the cross member from a TJ will fit your MJ. You may have to search for a proper cross member and trans mount (for an AX15). You most likely will need to change the pilot bushing to fit a larger size input shaft tip. Later model AX15s have ~3/4" tips. A BA10 (assuming that is what you have) is only ~1/2". Search for a pilot bushing for a 74 CJ5 with a 304.

A parts manual shows the bolts are: The side bolts (9 O'clock and 3 O'clock) are 7/16" x 14 x 3 1/8" The top bolts are 3/8" x 16 x 1 7/8"

Looks like something from Wacky Racers. (Yes, I am showing my age.)

Should be plug-n-play. Use the tcase from the AX15. The tcase from the BA is 21 spline. The tcase from the AX is 23 splines. Get the AX15 crossmember and trans mount. The AX internal or external slave cylinder? You may need to swap at least the pressure plate. What year is the AX15 from? The input shaft tip is larger on later years AX15. You will need a new pilot bushing (74 CJ5 304 cu in). I am sure there is more.

For the 2nd picture, do you have power windows? Possibly C294 for left side window control? No, that wasn't it.

Several years ago I read an interesting fact. In the same amount of time (at that date), Ford had sold more Edsels than Chevy had sold Volts...and the Govt was paying people to buy a Volt.

302+

MJ = DD 4 me

Beautiful. An early production 87. The fender badges are COMANCHE. These are hold overs from the 86 models. Also, the hood support post is mounted on the front header panel, not on the passenger side engine bay.

Just turn the Jeep over!

10 slots for me. On another forum, someone wrote that "real Jeeps have 7 slots." Another person replied that the original WW2 MBs/GPWs had 10 slots. I don't remember if there was a reply.

Why do you need an adapter for the BA to AX swap? You will need to get a matching tcase. The tcase for the BA has 21 spline. The AX requires 23 splines. As for the clutch, is the AX external slave or internal slave? If internal, it doesn't matter. If external (AX only) get the clutch kit for the appropriate year AX. Not only is the throw-out bearing different, but the pressure plates are diff (between the int. and ext. kits). When I did my did my swap (to external), I had read that the clutch kit from the BA would work with the AX. It did...but never felt "right." I researched on RockAuto the clutch kits and the individual components (disk, pressure plates). The clutch disk was the same part number thru out the life of the MJ/XJ. The pressure plate part number changed when the AX switched from internal to external slaves. I later swapped the kit to match the pressure plate. Shifting feels better. EDIT What Dan said about the input shaft tip. The early AX has a tip that is approx 1/2", the later years have ~3/4". If you have the later yr. get a pilot bearing for a 74 CJ5 with a 304 engine. The outside diameter and the inside diameter are the proper sizes.

The length of the cable will depend on whether you have 4wd or 2wd. A 4wd needs a longer cable (attaches to the tcase). Also, if you have cruise control, the top end (by the cluster) will have different ends. Since yours is RWD, you should get the short cable.

Ok. Just throwing out ideas.

Yes, I can confirm there is no interference with the drop brackets.

Interior trim pieces, rear panels. Fuel pumps/sending units. Rear fender flares. Brake load sensing valve. Spare tire hanger. Seat brackets. Parking brake pedal. Tailgates and rubber hanger guides. Bed liner? Rain gutters (looks like you got a set) What rear axles are under each one? Just a few that are Comanche specific.

That wire should supply constant power to the headlight switch. Do your lights turn on with the key off? If not, a PO has eliminated the wire from the harness to the switch.

Great write up! Should go into the DIY section.

I put in an open radiator last year. Purchased off amazon. I cannot find the brand, thou. It came with a bung hole for the temp switch. No problems. NAPA sells NR2802.