87MJTIM

I used a dolly to tow it to the bodyshop. Then put it on a flatbed to pick it up. I have a Chevy sub 2500 8.1 liter.

Thanks for all the comments and suggestions. Currently, I am not looking to swap axles. Maybe in the future. I have a D44 in the rear which I am not willing to give up. Maybe change the R&P to a 3.55 at which time I will get a non-CAD D30 from a later model XJ. My original question was what the first shop did to my knuckle to "fix" the alignment. That (apparently) has made the problem worse. For right now, I am getting the current problems fixed. Thanks again. I really do appreciate the comments and suggestions.

Correct me if I am wrong, but the 3.07 was all that came with the 4.0 5spd. That is a pretty "common ratio."

Diff's are 3.07

Follow up: The wobble has gotten worse. The alignment is WAY OUT! I have eaten through my front tires. I took it to a tire shop to have new eyes look at it and get two new tires. The guys there looked at the "work" done by the prior group and cringed. What ever the prior guys did only made the problems worse. Now, they say they cannot adjust the camber because the ball joints are bad. Also, the shims that were installed should not have been on the bottom of the knuckle, but on the top ( :dunno: ). We'll see what the final out come is. (Most mechanical work is done by a client. We barter services. He sent the truck to another shop to have the alignment done originally. I didn't pay $$ for the work. I guess I got what I paid for.)

Perform that CAD elimination steps. Look in the DIY section. By doing the CAD fix, you can eliminate the vacuum hoses. http://comancheclub.com/topic/17377-cad-fix-1/ (edit: I tried to make the link from my office computer, but it wouldn't allow me.)

Just west of you - Frederick. :waving:

Exactly what I was thinking. Was the XJ running before you cannibalised it? When was it running last? How old is the fuel? Did you take the MJ parts and put them on the XJ? Which parts? My 2¢.

Since you getting the tcase from the donor, get the shift linkage. My understanding is the profiles between the BA and AX are diff. The old linkage won't line up correctly. The trans cross member and mount are required, also. Because you are change from an internal slave system to an external slave, a new hydro system is needed - master, line and slave. Since the 98 had an electronic speedo, you need to adapt the cable system for you 88. I am not sure you need to change drive shafts. You are not changing from 2wd to 4wd. Your existing DS will fit the new setup. You do not need any adapter for this swap.

The cap alone is worth a few 100.

Champagne Metallic - original Jeep color (for our northern neighbors: colour)

I'm in. I know there are other Frederick County, MD members. Where are you?

Hopefully, after you've finished the job. :yes:

Sounds like I need to get the clutch for the 94+ AX15. This is what I was concluding. I just wanted hear what others have done. Thanks.

Super clean, original MJ. Nice! Do you have a write up on the hand brake installation?

Ok, this in not MJ specific at first, but I will bring it back in the end. I am almost finished an AX15 conversion in an 84 CJ7. My issues are detailed on Jeepforum at http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/84-cj7-ax15-conversion-clutch-grab-top-2867985/. When I purchased the clutch kit, I bought it spec'd to the engine (4.2, T5), and not to the trans I was going to install (AX15). Now that everything is back together, the clutch is grabbing/releasing at the top of the pedal swing. I've tried a couple adjustments to the slave cylinder, but there is not change to the clutch grabbing. My research on Rockauto, show the pressure plate is the same for the 84 CJ7 (T5), the 87 MJ (BA10) and an 90 XJ (AX15, int slave). The pressure plate change in 94, the year the AX15 switched to the ext slave. The part # for the disk remain the same up to at least 98. Should I have purchased the clutch kit for the trans I was going to install? The reason I am asking on CC is because I will be converting my BA10 to an AX15, ext slave, soon. I want to make sure I get the correct clutch kit.

DJ5, PLEASE take all of the comment as helpful suggestions and not criticisms. Everyone on CC want to help you. (As I stated previously, I am not a mechanic by trade. Most of my education has come from the experts on CC and other Jeep forums. [Youtube has helped, also] .) You do not need to drop the tanny. Your friend may be knowledgable with other engines, but, apparently not with the Jeep inline 6. (Base on your signature, you have 1) 4.2 and 2) 4.0 engines. For the oil pan and RMS, the gaskets have not changed in over 20 yrs.) If you are not comfortable taking on this project, find a REPUTABLE mechanic to do the work. Just don't let someone tell you that you need to drop the tranny to change the RMS. For the Jeep inline 6, this is a usless step.

$250 plus parts of $14 isn't a bad price. However, I don't believe he can do it that easily. I do not think you can get to the RMS by pulling the trans. The seals are set inside grooves/channels that are only accessible from under the oil pan. So, the oil pan NEEDS to come off. As I detailed above, you do not need to remove the trans. Like Pete said, if someone tells you that you have to remove the trans, you need a new mechanic. Go get a Haynes or Chiltons manual. Read through about changing the RMS. No where in the steps does it say to remove the trans.

To your original question: how much? You could estimate at standard billing rates, approx 3 to 5 hrs. Depending on billing rates in your area, assuming $100, you're about $400 in labor plus parts. Parts will be marked up, so guess around $500 total. If you invest your time, you're only in for the parts. That would be under $50 in parts: RMS, gascket, and oil. The confidence in knowing how to do your own maintenance: PRICELESS.

CORRECT! My bad.

You will be surprised what you can do with a little reading up on the procedure. ( I am a CPA, but I do much of my own mechanincals. I just swapped trans in a CJ7 with a lot of reading.) First, do you have space to work? You picture looks like a community parking lot. Note: it is a dirty job. Have on old clothes and a hat for your hair, like a hair nets the cafeteria ladies wear. Also, eye protection since you will be on your back looking up alot. Put a large piece of cardboard under the truck. 1. Disconnect battery cable 1a. Jack up the truck. 2. Put jack stands under the frame rails. Let the front axle hang down to give you room to work. 3. Drain the oil. 4. Remove starter. 2 bolts and a wire. 5. If you have a front skid plate, remove it. 4 bolts. 6. start undoing the oil pan bolts. Have a piece of cardboard ready. As you remove the bolts, push them through the cardboard in the same position as the pan. 7. Once all the bolts are off, pull off the pan. You may need to "gently pursued it" off. Use a rubber mallet to tap it and rock it side-to-side. DO NOT PRY IT OFF. You may bend the rim of the pan. CAREFUL as you lower it down. The oil pump is hanging down into the pan. 8. At the rear of the engine, remove the last bearing cap. DO NOT scrape or mark the bearing. The lower RMS sits into cap. 9. Take a small punch, carefully punch out the upper seal. DO NOT scrape the bearing! 10 Coat the upper seal in oil (some use liquid soap) to slide the upper seal in. The is tricky, so be patient. 11. Place the lower seal in the cap. Place some RTV on the tips of the seal. Do not put RTV on the part of the seal against the bearing. 11a. Reinstall the cap - tighten to specs. 12. Clean the surface of the oil pan and the bottom of the engine. Use a flat blade razor at a VERY shallow angle. You do not want to gouge the block or pan. 13. Get the Felpro gascket. Blue, rubber type. Cannot remember the part #. It comes with dowel pins to help guide it into place. 14. Reinstall pan. 15. Reinstall pan bolts. 16. Reinstall skid plate. 17. Reinstall starter. 18. Lower truck. 19. Fill with oil. 20. Lather. Rince. Repeat. Since you have not done this before, bugdet a good 4 to 6 hours. Read up on it and get the gascket and RMS before you start. For tools, you will need a socket set with metric and SAE sockets, a rubber mallet and a torque wrench. I've done this 3 times, once on the MJ, once on a 91 XJ and just recently on my 84 CJ.

My BA10 has 274000 on it. It has never left me stranded. My complaint about it is the internal slave cylinder. As the original owner, it is on it 5th slave cylinder. It will not get a 6th. I have an AX15 waiting.

What year was the XJ? The tip of the input shaft changed (94?). If a later model AX15, you will need a new pilot bushing with a ~.75" ID for the larger input shaft tip. There is a recent thread where another CC member was having trouble with a PB. Follow that thread and find out how he solved his issues. The tcase input shaft changed from 21 splines (BA10) to 23 splines (AX15). Your signature indicates a BA10, so you will need to change the input shaft to a 23 spline shaft. For the reverse light, just get a wire adapter from auto parts store and splice it to the existing wireharness on the truck. I just did this on an AX15 in to a CJ7. The NP231 will bolt right up to either the BA10 and AX15. You do not need a clocking plate. The cross member for the BA10 does not line up with the AX15. If I recall other's descriptions, the trans drop is diff (either higher or lower). If you are keeping your existing tcase, then your current shift linkage will work.

' = feet " = inches You're putting a 31 ft tire under your truck?!?!?! :yes: ;)

Check the ground wires. Dash ground is just above the park brake release handle. Tail light ground is behind the drivers tail light. See Cruiser's Renix Tips (I know a 91 is not a Renix, but the ground refresh should apply)