DirtyComanche

Neither is a Comanche body with a Chevy engine in it. So all the 2.8L Comanches are fakes?

No rear locker?

It sounds like you need very few MJ specific parts. Hit the junkyard. You will have most of what you need without even trying.

Amsoil MTG. What?

Rockauto.com is selling reprints of the actual factory service manuals for many years of Jeep vehicles. They aren't cheap, but they're worth 10x what they cost... Or look on ebay or use the ones linked off cruiser54's website.

It's won't be a speed demon. But it will be way better than stock... I've debated throwing a 4l in my 76 because the 258 is seeming less than healthy.

I made mine out of an AW4 mount because I didn't have an AX-15 handy... If you're stuck, it is a fairly easy piece to make. To do it over I would make a different mount for the exhaust anyways, because the previously mentioned 'sad face' one isn't the best for what I'm normally doing.

HF tools (or PA here) can't do what a lot of the higher end stuff does. I can not physically fit most of the import tools into places on the stuff I work on. To tear an engine down I might be removing several hundred bolts with 7mm 12 point heads, and many of them are in places you can't get a conventional socket or wrench on them. So you're using a swivel socket, or dropped box ends, or long flat box ends, etc, and the only stuff that will actually fit and not round off is the high end stuff. Plus you need a plethora of line wrenches to get at all the inconveniently located B nuts. I still have a bunch of stuff that's been bent, ground, or milled, but there is no avoiding that. Working on a truck, meh, lots of the stuff isn't gonna matter, just have a backup for when it breaks. I won't go back to cheap ratchets though. Or screwdrivers. And I'll admit I have some Snap-On impact sockets at home because I got them cheap.

Not many people know about it, and like I said, no idea if the part is available anymore. It was a steel shim with rubber bonded to both sides, so they only lasted so long before the rubber fell apart. As they say, there really is no new ideas, just retakes on old ideas. :laughin:

I'd like to see how you installed them (plural?) on an inverted T steering system. Got pics? It's installed the same way, where the drag link meets the tie rod. I have hydro-assist and it removes a lot of the load from the actual drag link, so it stiffens it enough that it stops the drag link from wanting to roll the tie rod as bad. I also sucked the tie rod ends in more than you normally would since I had to modify the steering knuckles/arms, so the tie rod won't roll as much to begin with, but it did make a noticeable difference in road handling having The Cure in there. I ordered it on a whim, prior to deciding how the steering would work anyways, and if I really intended to street drive it all the time I would probably order two of them and put them under the TREs, or get the actual FSJ part that does the same thing (elastomeric puck that goes between the TRE and the steering arm). That's assuming the FSJ part is actually still available. Steering looks like this: Image Not Found Which doesn't show much. :rotf:

Well, I ordered that Luk clutch kit and flywheel. I will see what's going on when I pull the old one out... I went snow wheeling and the clutch wound up slipping in at least one instance, when I got back the disengagement issue was worse and the clutch was making noise. The more I read it looks like there's about a 100% failure rate with machined flywheels, however some of them take longer to show up than others. I think snow wheeling (loading it heavy constantly) probably accelerated the problem on mine, as it most likely was only a couple thousand kilometers since the clutch was changed. That said, I still don't know what parts the PO used or what condition they were in.

They work. Helped a lot with my XJ that uses inverted T steering.

There's some good pictures of the differences in some other threads on here.

I wouldn't cut the baffle. It is there for a reason. I would swap the arm for the MJ one, or bend it different, or something.

There is no 'new' sending units for these. They sold you an XJ one.

Proto is the actual industrial grade tool line, and is equal or higher quality than Strap-On. No, it is not made in Chindiawan. Strap-On has removed the "Made in USA" from many of their products to "better represent their global market." I do not know what that actually means regarding COO. The wrenches, sockets, and ratchets are all still USA made.

You're getting closer. Check your brake light switch isn't stuck... Give it a cleaning with some contact cleaner and work the pedal a few times.

I have their the full set of both standard and metric 12 points in 3/8 drive. And maybe a few other odd things. I can only get it through Grainger so it's not exactly cheap. I've got some old Plomb hydraulic wrenches, which I believe were absorbed into the Proto brand. I need to try to track some more of those down actually.

If there's money involved then they might be... It's too bad they killed the Comanche helicopter off before production. It was pretty bad @$$.

What type of paint and quality of paint job are you intending? I like the OEM Colorado Red when it is done right. My parents used to have an XJ in that colour back when it was new.

I'd bet there's people on IFSJA or FSJNetwork that have a vector drawing for those decals, or know a decal place that does... There's a lots of priss types on there that seem to have the most inane things documented. :laughin:

I didn't realize the Renix screws were different. My XJ has a HO throttle body, so there probably isn't a standard screw that fits the Renix.

I'm curious if you took picture of trying to fit it in.

RockAuto lists 3 tanks for the LWB. All are fairly affordable. Take your pick. Or go on eBay.

The bearing will come off easier without the collar being on there for sure. I can't easily buy the collar separate, so when it wouldn't go at that point I just trashed the whole thing out. Most places just cut the collar and bearing at the same time, and using a death wheel or angle grinder is much faster than drilling providing you're good at it. You don't need much of a press to reassemble as long as you microwave the bearing and collar and make sure the axle shaft is cool. I wouldn't take this stuff to any sort of a machine shop as IMHO the risk of them damaging the axleshaft is pretty high (they're going to use an angle grinder to take it apart), and it's not hard to do any of this yourself (even a cheap HF press will allow you to reassemble). Honestly, I would have just run the seals you had before messing with anything. Providing they had some oil/grease on them they're probably still fine.