DirtyComanche

www.fsjnetwork.com is where more of them wound up after IFSJA was down for an extended period of time...

You're only 370km from me if you want to get rid of it... But it would die at my hands.

I'm reading they were built until 73 in Argentina, and that engine is a major redesign in that they went from 4 to 7 main bearings. Maybe there is another engine based on it, but it also would likely be quite different. IMHO it's not worth trying to rebuild, especially with the little bit of reading I did on the M715 forums that indicated lots of stuff is not easy to find (and those guys are in the US where they have access to much more NOS and surplus).

I did the same, I was all "Those greedy capitalists!" and deleted it hoping they would lose enough accounts to lose advertisers. Then the workarounds came out.

Did you delete your account? Because otherwise the pictures should have been saved on ComancheClub by Kryptonic.

This is the 76 J10 that's either getting wheeled into the shop as the next project, or it will be sold. If I buy this Gladiator I will sell this truck. It's complete, but the engine is trashed and it's a Quadratrac, and it needs some other serious mechanical repairs and fixing some of the sketchy 'fab' work...

I'm aware of that but I got my problems with buying vehicles nobody else wants.

A friend/acquaintance, actually I bought my two MJs off him, has what I believe is a 64 or 65 Gladiator that his wife is going to try to make him sell. The body is very nice by the standards of them in this part of the world, and the box isn't actually rusted much (or even beat up). The seams on the front fender flares are starting to rust to the point it probably needs fenders. The downside is it is original. And I mean original. It came off a farm where the older farmer allegedly bought it new. So it's got the OHC Tornado engine, some sort of 3 speed, manual brakes, steering, etc, and I don't even remember what for axles. He actually sold me the MJs because his wife wouldn't let him buy the Gladiator until the MJs were gone. He never really did anything to the MJs and I don't think he has to the Gladiator. When I last saw the truck was when I was picking up the second MJ. Anyways, my dilemma is I want it, it's cool. But the driveline is likely entirely junk. Am I going to upset purists/destroy history by pulling the Tornado and dropping something else in? Can you even rebuild a Tornado and make it reliable? Also, I have a lot of trucks/projects, which I am neglecting. I would like to make a project of my 86 MJ at some point, but decided to put it off because I have a good from 20' 76 J10 I wanted to throw a different drivetrain in first (it's not original anyways, and the 258 in it is very tired). I think it's a bit of six in one, half dozen in the other, so I could sell the 76 and fix this one instead... No pics right now, sorry...

I like trars.

4, 8, 5, pretty much the same.

There's nothing I can think of. Some stuff is a little hard, but they made enough of these things that there is typically a couple different aftermarket options for everything, plus most of the sensors seem to basically be GM in nature (some require some rewiring), so that leaves lots of options. I think the true Renix parts might be worth hording a bit. If I can find ECMs and ICMs I will always take them. More because I'm worried they will become really expensive rather than just being unavailable.

If you're going to drive it a bunch just order a FiTech or Holley Sniper right meow. The frames aren't that strong compared with modern trucks, it is a true half ton. Do not expect to go out and tow 10klbs with it. Otherwise they're pretty simple, make sure the bed seams aren't rusting, along with the cab corners, the fender flares, the bottom of the cab where the cowl drains, and pretty much everywhere else. Oh yeah, spring hangers, they like to rust off. If it has a steel gas tank it will probably be rusted...

I don't know what I'd do with it, but I'd take it if I was close.

Amazing build. How was the fender flares joined? Electric plastic welder, or with fiberglass and filler, or?

Yeah, just turn the hactackery up to 11! I'm surprised you didn't suggest welding the hole shut with an old coat hanger using a couple car batteries and some jumper cables. No idea, it's not like you were forcing him to buy it. I'd never have listed something like that for sale due to the effort involved.

You use brakeclean to get the oil out, because it will catch the shavings/chips otherwise. You take a foam earplug and compress it until it's 1/100th its normal size, then ram it through the fitting so it goes past it and then expands. This will block the passage behind it from chips entering. Then you can cut away without risking contaminating the oil system. Since it's now dry you can stick the vacuum cleaner hose right by it and it will suck the pieces out instead of them being pushed in. Once you've mangled the fitting out of there, you can then vacuum it again and pull the earplug out, it will likely take any remaining chips with it since it will be tight. You can also melt the earplug out with MEK or something like that if it gets stuck. Like I said, filling it with grease works too, then just brake clean it out after and try not to force any metal pieces in.

$6? What is it made of, gold?

You can clean it out and dry it with brake clean, then stuff a foam ear plug (decidamps are my favorite ) in past the fitting, then run a vacuum cleaner on it while cutting/drilling/mangling the pieces. Just make sure you have a small pick or grabbers to pull the earplug back out after. Edit, you can also pack grease in behind it, but it will catch material... Kinda depends how much access you have.

It's a well covered topic if you search. But yes, the tranny needs to be changed. You may want a new rear axle since likely the one you have sucks, but it's not a requirement. Tcase may need a different input if you 4wd. You will need to do modifications to the firewall and radiator support, and probably many little things I am forgetting.

I'm having trouble finding one though. I'm wondering how easy it would be to mark out the points, mask it, and spray it on? If I had an overhead projector I'd use that trick, but I don't.

The other relay is for the AUX fan, all the harnesses had it, or at least the holder and most of the wiring. Or at least every harness I've ever looked at, or pulled apart, had it.

Clean it out with brake cleaner and then acetone. Find a bolt or fitting that fits nicely in there and has a head or enough meat protruding to put a wrench/pipe mangler on, clean it up really good with sandpaper and acetone. Flux paste both sides, stick it together, then silver solder it with a propane torch. You'll either make it so you can back it out, or screw it up so bad you'll be pulling the motor for a rebuild.

Your wiring is bastardized. I don't have a stock XJ/MJ to compare to, but that relay in front of the EGR solenoid is not factory. There should only be one relay on that side of the chassis, and it is to run the AUX fan. I can't be certain, but I believe it belongs behind the EGR solenoid, where that relay that doesn't appear to be hooked up is. My guess is the AUX fan never came on, which is common, so somebody bodged that relay in to fix it.

Yup, they aren't affected by the cold at all, which is nice. The only thing I've noticed as a downside is that they do tend to have a very prominent 60Hz flicker, or at least screw in socket type ones do, it plays hell with my camera shooting at 60FPS.

That's a good story! Definitely hang onto her.