DirtyComanche

You missed the point. Did Toyota make a ton of money by having to replace 225,000 truck frames? Absolutely not, it's assumed it has cost them billions of dollars just to replace the frames, plus potentially a ton more in lost sales due to damage to their reputation. As the manufacturer seems to be held responsible for the safety of their product for longer and longer, it is in their own interest to demand that the vehicles are not subjected to such horrific conditions. On the flip side the NHTSA will likely wind up pushing for better corrosion control requirements on the basis of safety, which will also cost the auto manufacturer money (like you were saying, you just missed why they were going to have to do it, I can assure you they don't want to spend the money), hence again they would be better off to go after the excessive salt usage instead.

It's surprising that either the auto manufacturers haven't demanded that some limit be placed on the amount of salt that is put on the road, or that they haven't been required to build vehicles with even better anti-corrosion technology, since the salt usage in those areas can render a vehicle structurally deficient within 5 years.

This was what I was trying to get at. No point doing any other troubleshooting until the cables are installed correctly.

With the lights on? I did it more because I didn't feel like trying to get a burning headlight switch out of my dash on the side of the road in the middle of the night, again. The lights are noticeably brighter now though. Not saying they're amazing, but it made a difference.

It's definitely a high pinion? 2000 is the transition year I believe. Be sure before you commit to using it. But yes, I'd use it over an early axle. The brake and hub parts are more plentiful (cheaper) and the knuckles are stronger.

Out of those, I assume only the TruckLites have a DOT approval stamped on them? I just sold off a set of cheap LED headlights I bought because of that. It's not worth the headache to me, since you're either getting an inspection order (which will cost about $150 even if nothing it wrong) or a ticket for running unapproved headlights.

Even if you're intending to travel to a new location every day, the sheer amount of 'stuff' that they packed into the Earthroamer XV-JP was just insane. Curb weight was 6700lbs. There's a super long thread on that one as they wound up changing it significantly from how Earthroamer built it. https://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/earthroamer-xv-jp-northwest-edition.51254/ I guess there's certain places where you would actually need the level of features they designed them with, but it just seemed to me like they compromised mobility too much to justify it. I'd think if you needed that much stuff you'd be better off going to a full size truck with a compact/pop-up camper, loaded weight would likely be similar, along with overall dimensions, and the price would be a lot lower. Or just take a small trailer.

That will do it, they need to be tight. And it's probably why the other connector melted...

Earthromer? I personally don't get it. Bring a damn tent and a folding cot for 0.01% of the price.

There's a tension adjuster under the P/S pump. You need to loosen the bolts on the back side of the P/S pump, and the tensioner lock bolt first. If you back the tension off until the belt can be slipped off the idler, you can then figure out if anything is seized, as all of the accessories should be able to turn with just your fingers (they only thing you can't turn with your fingers is the crank). With the belt off you can start it and try running it for a minute or two, it will overheat very quickly as the water pump isn't turning, but it will let you know if that was the issue or not. It could easily be another electrical problem, or another bad cable or connection, or the battery isn't as charged as it seems. It's hard to give definitive troubleshooting advice for electrical without being there.

Have you seen how large a NV5600 is? I'd never put one in a MJ. They weigh 360lbs. No, that's not a joke or an exaggeration.

They could have done a lot of things wrong. Might be a bolt backing off the flywheel or pressure plate, might have broke a finger jamming it together, might have put the wrong pilot bearing in and the input shaft is flopping around, might have forgot to tighten up a bellhousing bolt, might have put something together wrong in the tcase shift linkage, exhaust, or transmission mount, or whatever else. Take a look for yourself first, but you paid to have work done so I would take it back to them.

If you have trouble with the cable seating far enough for the lock to engage, check to make sure there isn't a broken off drive from the old one in either end of things. If there is it will push the drive part of the new cable out too far to get things to go together.

1980 will be passenger drop tcase. But they're normally clocked down so extreme that you probably won't have to cut the floor. Honestly it shouldn't need firewall work, but what do I know, I never did it. A SBC with a short water pump is considerably shorter than a 4.0L though.

Nothing turns? As in the accessories don't turn? If one of the larger accessories seizes (P/S pump or alt normally) it can actually bind things up enough that it won't be able to start. If you loosen the serpentine belt off it will be obvious.

Might check that positive cable now. Otherwise it's hard to say. Might be a bad starter, might be far worse things. But definitely start with looking at the positive cable. Is it s super slow crank, or just a click and nothing?

Glad somebody caught that.

I believe that was actually meant to be a production vehicle and a handful of them were made... Can't think of the name of it for the life of me.

Don't forget to get longer bumpstops or drop them down.

There's a visual indicator that the lights are on if you walk by either the front or back of the Jeep. If you're turning your lights on during the day and thus forgetting to turn them off, you might want to just get a generic DRL (daytime running light) module and install that instead of turning the lights on. There's also a factory DRL module I believe.

My dealer said no, and wanted to get me the Crown one for $46. I told them to pound sand. So it may be available, but there might not be stock.

If you only change one of the bearings/races it will be much more likely to cause problems than if you do both sides. The new bearing/race assembly will be tighter and shift the carrier the other way somewhat. That said, the gears are probably nicely worn by now so who cares. Might make more noise, but it won't likely cause any problems.

Oh, you're 2wd. The Y-914 is for 4wd applications, and the Y-924 is for 2wd applications. I always forget some people have 2wd trucks.

Yes. And if you delete the EGR you can put a pipe plug in the intake manifold, the hole is the perfect size to tap. Personally I'm torn on if it's something that there's any point in deleting. I don't have it on my XJ because I put a HO intake on it (needed it for clearance), but it's still on my MJ.

ATP sells a replacement. It's listed correctly on Rockauto. ATP Y-914.