DirtyComanche

Lots of stuff has been swapped on it. Like Minuit said, that interior wasn't what it came with, and it looks to me like a lot of the exterior stuff has been swapped at some point, likely when they painted it. If somebody that cared owned it and did this stuff, it's a good sign. If a hack did it to try to make it look okay to sell it, ugh. That's what my 88 was (and somewhat still is), a hack tried to make it look okay to sell it. When I say the $3000 price is probably okay, I mean as an asking price, I wouldn't intend to pay that even if it looks very solid. It's a 2wd, and it's been spraypainted (well, almost guaranteed that's spraypaint). Looks like it will need an exhaust too.

I'd be worried about what all that flat black paint is hiding. But it doesn't appear to be very rusted on the uniframe, so that's a good sign. Look at it in person and see how good it actually is. $3000 probably isn't a bad price if it's actually got a solid body.

They're ABS relays and ABS connectors. Finally found a newer component layout diagram that shows the relays. I'm going to assume I can delete all of it and suffer no drawbacks.

It's likely fine, assuming they at least put the trans in neutral... I mean, I dunno, that sounds like somebody failed towing 101. However, the tcase oil pump is on the rear output shaft, so as long as that is spinning it has lubrication. Ideal, no, but it shouldn't hurt anything. If not, tcases are cheap.

The female connector that is clean connects to the male one I'm pointing to. This is all hooked to the 2 relays that do something, I have no idea what.

Can somebody ID these? I think these are all related to cruise control or ABS. I'm not sure, I've never seen them on a harness before and my manuals do not match correctly. I it's a 1990 XJ with a 4.0l auto, or it's an late 89, which my 89 manuals don't cover as they changed a lot of wiring connectors. There's screws in the firewall for the cruise control servo, but it is long gone. The entire braking system has also been changed. Backstory is this is an XJ I bought not running, and it's been modded. The underhood chassis wiring harness is messed and I don't have a spare, so attempting to repair it.

You must use a 4wd transmission unless you want to tear the transmissions apart and swap significant parts over, which may or may not be damaged in your current transmission. XJ/MJ AX-5s have the transfer case adapter flange drilled different than YJ/TJ ones. If you use a YJ/TJ one the transfer case will wind up clocked higher and there is potential for floor contact and the shift linkage not working; basically it may not bolt together as intended, although it will physically fit.

For aftermarket stuff I deal with: -Summit Racing -Speedway Motors -Amazon (Yes, try it, searching by P/N is best) -Ruffstuff Specialties -TMR Customs -North West Fab -DIY4X -DiffsOnly -Tom Woods -JE REEL -High Angle Driveline And a bunch of others. Will not deal with: -Ballistic Fab -Behemouth Driveline -4wheel Parts (unless I have to) I'm not normally buying the same stuff as most people though.

Look at the tag on that tcase, it's on the rear case half driver's side of the rear output. See what year it is. I'm guessing somebody bought a trans and tcase out of a newer rig and swapped them in to do a 4wd swap, hence there might not be the provisions for the AW4 to shift correctly and having the newer style speedo drive. You can, or should be able to barring no really weird parts combination, pull the speedo drive out and just put a cable style one in it though. Likely the speedo cable was too short too, likely part of the reason they didn't fix it, there's a few on Rockauto that will work with the various different types of gauge clusters.

Anything worth sitting in will be, if you're buying new.

That sucks. It didn't have any special anti-theft measures, I assume? 80s vehicles are just way too easy to steal.

JK axles. And hydroboost.

It's still relevant. You want the pinion angle to be 2 degrees (or so) below being inline with the output yoke on the tcase at static height/loading. That's the Coles notes at least, I'll spare the long explanation. Currently it looks high, but I'm not convinced it's an issue.

Because then we might actually know what's going on. Wouldn't want that, would we?

If it's on Facebook, there's a good chance it's wrong.

That's a front D44 spindle. Also used in the rear with certain bastardized full float/manual hub conversions (normally for flat towing), but those kits are quite rare.

Explorers are 38.5", or so I believe. Not gonna work.

I've got 32s and didn't cut anything. No idea what the issue is. There's these things called bumpstops, contrary to popular belief you have to adjust them in any situation where the suspension or tire size is modified.

On average they do not live as long as internal pumps, although installation error likely plays a large part in this. The Ford pump that is commonly used actually works in conjunction with a first pump that is in the tank, which supplies the external pump with a healthy amount of head pressure. Going to a pump that was really meant to be installed externally and by itself may produce better results, but none of the aftermarket gasoline EFI ones seem to be very reliable. The diesel market is different because losing the pump is typically very costly, thus there has been good external pump (and lots of bad ones) available for a long time.

Yar. Wire the fuel pump in hot from the battery for testing. Also, you're likely to get sick of replacing external fuel pumps.

Yeah, with two people it's not bad. Take the tailgate off first to make it a little lighter.

You could watch this incredibly boring video. It's relevant. Mostly. Otherwise I'd say just make sure the brakes are good, the fluids are full, and there isn't any of those "well, I've been meaning to get to that" things. And maybe throw a couple sandbags in the back for traction aids if needed.

Is that TRE tight or not? If it isn't, fix that first.

Just get an 8.8 or Liberty 8.25 (pretty certain they come 4.10).

I don't feel there is anything special about the HO trucks personally. Since the truck is so clean I would vastly prefer you don't butcher it. But it is your truck. And what it sounds like you want to do does not fall under what I call butchering.