DirtyComanche

Most diesels have a bypass circuit on the tstat so they're always moving water. It helps to regulate temperature in NORMAL conditions, but when it's cold it just means they can't warm up. I'd park it and drive a gasser. It's part of the reason I sold off my Cummins crap after running them for so many years.

If anyone has a set of OEM Chrysler bisexual key door and ignition cylinders that aren't worn out, and a key or two to go with them, I would like to purchase them. I believe these are 93-96ish for the doors and only 93-94 for the ignition (to be backwards compatible with the older style columns). It seems the aftermarket replacements are not of great quality for that type of cylinder, and most of them don't even take the right type of key. I've been trying to get some from the junkyard but no dice so far. I'm in Canada but I have Paypal and will cover shipping.

They make good tires. That said, if they're the tire for you depends entirely on usage and expectations.

That stuff looks like 100% generic/universal stuff. I don't care enough to do any legwork, so hold that against me if you want, but check if they say those parts fit the S10/Dakota/Ranger/Courier/Mazda Bs/whatever other mini trucks, that will tell you right away it's just a generic part. Also, remember, aftermarket parts ONLY fit the box they come in. And that's a best case scenario.

Where is it? And pics... (What those guys said)

Yeah, mine certainly isn't rust free or clean... And it made it. But I did dump a lot of time and money into taking something destined for the crusher and putting it back on the road as a daily driver.

Occasionally I wear sleeved coveralls. And, man was that pic a long time ago. 2008? I know I still have it somewhere.

Bumping this, because apparently there was some interest... If you're familiar with my YouTube (or not) you can go there to really see what I look like, but I ain't pretty, so don't go there just for that.

It's -10 here. Mildest winter I've ever seen here. We also had almost no snow until just after Christmas. Now I'm at the normal amount, which is too much to deal with. I think snowpack in the mountains is pretty low compared with normal though.

I'd pay $100 for one in good condition. I'd pay $200 for one that was mint or only needed paint. No lie. And it's spelled naive. Don't think I'm trying to be a twat by correcting you, it's a weird word and lots of people spell it wrong, I'm just trying to preserve the English language.

I really had to scrounge through my collection of random funny pictures to find one PC enough to upload to here.

I'm so sorry. RIP Don.

I honestly don't think these Street Comanches are worth a thing, save maybe #1 of them. I hope not to hurt any feelings, but a body kit on a truck doesn't make it special. I should put a plaque on the glovebox of my '88. It's #3 of 5 (so far) that were owned and worked on by the legendary DirtyComanche!

I'm so mad. $1600 worth of camera and lens, not a chance the cloud will break. Yes, that's it, at 150mm. I couldn't even see it by eye, and just let it expose for 10 seconds to see if it might show up. Was surprised I had it in frame... No hope of getting it in frame at 500mm when you can't see it though, and there's no point anyway. Other pic is the stars I took a few weeks back, just to prove I am not actually a total numpty with a camera.

Clouded over just as it was getting started. I was going to walk out on the lake and get a good picture or 100 using a variety of lenses. Nope.

Does anyone have name suggestions? Pirate has failed me on this... I literally can't post 99% of the suggestions here.

An article I read said that there's an average of 42 of these pipeline 'taps' done every day. Most don't end like this.

No. Swap the trans too. The AW4 is good, but you can only ask so much of it. Use whatever is native (and not junk) to the V8 you select.

Not much money = I wouldn't do any of it. Unless something is obviously wrong, and at that point I'd probably reevaluate using that engine. Where are you getting this engine? It's pretty easy to exceed the value of a good used engine by throwing parts at it. Last 4.0 I built up was a free longblock, it was a waste of time/money, I could have found him a tight complete engine for far less than he was into it for when we were done. His build, not mine.

They make them from a "military grade alloy", oh, wait, it's 6111 and the military doesn't use that for anything. It should last okay for the first phase of their life, after that the corrosion will likely go intergranular and it will be impossible to repair. 5-10 years, just long enough to ensure the warranty has expired.

That's the thermostat housing. The intake manifold is the thing the TBI is bolted on above the exhaust manifold/header.

The 2.5L is just a 4.0L with 2 cylinders removed. Or more or less. That said, I was wrong, they put the CTS in the water jacket in the intake manifold on the TBI 2.5L engines. It's brass coloured, two wires, weatherpack style connector on the pigtail.

The CTS for the ECM is under the intake, in the side of the block. Or so I recall it being, since it's there on the 4.0L and everything is basically the same (minus 2 cylinders). But like I said, replace the tstat first and see what's going on. You could actually just pull the one in there out and see if it closes properly, then test it in a pot of water on the stove (with a thermometer), it should not open until 195* or so.

Replace it first.

Okay, you probably missed my edit. Your gauge is in Fahrenheit? 100 degrees is too low then, and either the sender or gauge is jacked, or the thermostat is bad. Since you have running rich issues, and I'm guessing things are largely unknown with the engine, I would change the thermostat first. There's a CTS that's for the ECM. It's the actual CTS. The one you're talking about is the temp sender for the gauge. No idea on tach issues.