DirtyComanche

Yeah, mine certainly isn't rust free or clean... And it made it. But I did dump a lot of time and money into taking something destined for the crusher and putting it back on the road as a daily driver.

Occasionally I wear sleeved coveralls. And, man was that pic a long time ago. 2008? I know I still have it somewhere.

Bumping this, because apparently there was some interest... If you're familiar with my YouTube (or not) you can go there to really see what I look like, but I ain't pretty, so don't go there just for that.

It's -10 here. Mildest winter I've ever seen here. We also had almost no snow until just after Christmas. Now I'm at the normal amount, which is too much to deal with. I think snowpack in the mountains is pretty low compared with normal though.

I'd pay $100 for one in good condition. I'd pay $200 for one that was mint or only needed paint. No lie. And it's spelled naive. Don't think I'm trying to be a twat by correcting you, it's a weird word and lots of people spell it wrong, I'm just trying to preserve the English language.

I really had to scrounge through my collection of random funny pictures to find one PC enough to upload to here.

I'm so sorry. RIP Don.

I honestly don't think these Street Comanches are worth a thing, save maybe #1 of them. I hope not to hurt any feelings, but a body kit on a truck doesn't make it special. I should put a plaque on the glovebox of my '88. It's #3 of 5 (so far) that were owned and worked on by the legendary DirtyComanche!

I'm so mad. $1600 worth of camera and lens, not a chance the cloud will break. Yes, that's it, at 150mm. I couldn't even see it by eye, and just let it expose for 10 seconds to see if it might show up. Was surprised I had it in frame... No hope of getting it in frame at 500mm when you can't see it though, and there's no point anyway. Other pic is the stars I took a few weeks back, just to prove I am not actually a total numpty with a camera.

Clouded over just as it was getting started. I was going to walk out on the lake and get a good picture or 100 using a variety of lenses. Nope.

Does anyone have name suggestions? Pirate has failed me on this... I literally can't post 99% of the suggestions here.

An article I read said that there's an average of 42 of these pipeline 'taps' done every day. Most don't end like this.

No. Swap the trans too. The AW4 is good, but you can only ask so much of it. Use whatever is native (and not junk) to the V8 you select.

Not much money = I wouldn't do any of it. Unless something is obviously wrong, and at that point I'd probably reevaluate using that engine. Where are you getting this engine? It's pretty easy to exceed the value of a good used engine by throwing parts at it. Last 4.0 I built up was a free longblock, it was a waste of time/money, I could have found him a tight complete engine for far less than he was into it for when we were done. His build, not mine.

They make them from a "military grade alloy", oh, wait, it's 6111 and the military doesn't use that for anything. It should last okay for the first phase of their life, after that the corrosion will likely go intergranular and it will be impossible to repair. 5-10 years, just long enough to ensure the warranty has expired.

That's the thermostat housing. The intake manifold is the thing the TBI is bolted on above the exhaust manifold/header.

The 2.5L is just a 4.0L with 2 cylinders removed. Or more or less. That said, I was wrong, they put the CTS in the water jacket in the intake manifold on the TBI 2.5L engines. It's brass coloured, two wires, weatherpack style connector on the pigtail.

The CTS for the ECM is under the intake, in the side of the block. Or so I recall it being, since it's there on the 4.0L and everything is basically the same (minus 2 cylinders). But like I said, replace the tstat first and see what's going on. You could actually just pull the one in there out and see if it closes properly, then test it in a pot of water on the stove (with a thermometer), it should not open until 195* or so.

Replace it first.

Okay, you probably missed my edit. Your gauge is in Fahrenheit? 100 degrees is too low then, and either the sender or gauge is jacked, or the thermostat is bad. Since you have running rich issues, and I'm guessing things are largely unknown with the engine, I would change the thermostat first. There's a CTS that's for the ECM. It's the actual CTS. The one you're talking about is the temp sender for the gauge. No idea on tach issues.

Yes, the second batch of P/Ns I gave you are for that. It is for the gauge. Is the gauge always at 100, or is that after it warms up? Either way, the gauge (if it's working) is only telling you what the engine is doing, it is not affecting how it is doing anything. The first batch of P/Ns I gave you are for the sensor that the ECM uses to determine if the engine is hot or cold, and will affect A/F ratio. Personally I don't know much about the TBI units, but they function the same as any other FI system at the end of the day, they will only do as well as they can with the information they're given. You should make sure the CTS for the ECM is functioning correctly, along with the O2 sensor, MAP, and IAT sensors. And of these producing erroneous information can cause a rich condition. Also too high of fuel pressure, or a stuck injector can do this (especially with a TBI). Edit, I'm guessing you're in the US... I assumed 100* C, which is where it should be on the gauge... If as it warms up it gets to 100* F and stops (100* F is only about half of what it should get to), likely the tstat is stuck open and that will also cause a rich condition.

If it's in the head it's for the gauge. Those P/Ns I gave you should work. I believe the later sensors work too, but they may or may not actually cross reference. What is wrong to begin with?

Yeah, they're quirky, not well documented, but most stuff is readily available. I threw out all my 2.5L TBI stuff, apparently it's worth big bucks because some of what is not considered to be 'wear' parts is very hard to get now... So there is that.

It's in the head? For the gauge? Goes in from the top? Not into the block? SMP TS268 or Airtex/Wells 1T1160. But, I think there's a better one that crosses to them, but I'm not totally sure. Either should work. They're under $10. If you really want somebody can look in the actual parts catalog and find a better brand that crosses to that P/N.

The 86 isn't a unicorn, its just weird. I have one out back, but the engine is gone. NTK EF0073 should be what you want.