DirtyComanche

Thanks for that.

Do more research on the OM617 first. They're a hassle to get parts for, and all of the adapters currently in production suck. You're also going to have trouble packaging it nicely in the MJ chassis. Not saying its impossible, but it will take money and time to do it right. And they aren't used in 98. That would be an OM606 or something.

Everyone is welcome. And you should go to Nova Scotia, the Canadian dollar is so bad right now it's like you get everything 30% off! I played around with phpBB's demo a bit last night. Seems easy enough to use, lots of skins that would be decent starting places. I looked at Simple Machines as well, and it does look like there is better skins for it and they also could be tweaked just as easily. So both may be contenders. My other big concern is mobile user experience. Tapatalk seems to be the default bandaid. However I think I would like it to have a simplified mobile view option. Dunno how hard that is to implement or if there is off the shelf plugins. I will have to do more research.

Because people don't learn. And unfortunately there is still some really old stuff that is hosted there and scattered across the internet. Stuff that the original posters of are long gone.

Sure! And yeah, I believe vBulletin is a lot of bucks for the newer versions. I'm not sure though as I haven't priced it out, and I'd @$$ume they sell licenses for the older versions for less. Most of the forums using it aren't using the latest and greatest, but there seems to be a lot of mod support for it so you can add useful UI features to the older versions. That said, like I know, that's why I'm here asking. I absolutely understand liking the old versions, rather than the dynamic WYSIWYG type (that's a great way to explain it). One of the other forums I'm on uses a newer-ish version of vBulletin that has a light switch icon on the top bar to toggle between seeing it as code versus WYSIWYG. That's nice as it allows the people to choose, as some people are very scared of seeing an [ IMG ] tag or the like, but I'll admit that I'm like you and would rather just see it in code as it makes as much or more sense to me. I forgot about phpbb. I think it's a little better than Simple Machines. That said, I don't know how good Simple Machines is, because the admin had no interest in trying to make any of it better, to the point of not even changing the default forum header.

Exactly! And I 1000% agree with you about this place. Probably the best forum UI/layout I've seen.

Woah, I already have overwhelming support for my new forum. A full 100% of respondents are in favour of it and wish to join!

I would. If I ever see a super clean 97+ XJ, for the right price, I'm going to Renix swap it.

Not help with this forum. Backstory: (skip if you hate reading) So there's a local (to me) 4x4 forum. At one time it decently served the northern half of BC. Not a lot of people, but it was a good thing. I've moderated on it for years. In general forums have declined. Ones that are badly managed and using archaic software and have frequent long outages have done so much worse. This one falls into the latter group. The guy who is 'running' it is begging for money to cover hosting costs again (happens every year, it's the only time he shows up) and I and another guy offered to just take it over from him so he would not be out the costs anymore. Nope. Alright. I'd like to start a new forum for the few of us that want one. I don't expect it to be busy. I don't expect it to be revenue neutral or better. I just want a place for the people who hate Facebook. And I want it to be reliable, look decent, be easy to use, etc. Questions: -Reliable and decent priced hosting and domain services - Just go with a big one like GoDaddy or whatever? -Forum software that's easy enough to set up but still has decent features? vBulletin seems to be the most common, and seems okay if you're willing to spend a bunch of time integrating mods into it. Obviously that's not what we're using here. -Can I rip and archive an entire forum database? We were using SimpleMachines Forum (SMF 2.0.6). I don't care about integrating it, I'd like to just take it and leave it as archived material so it's still there/searchable, and people could like there build threads back to where they were before. Not concerned about the legality of it. -Point me somewhere to read up on this???

I always laugh when I hear Americans complain about the price of shipping. You pay less than anywhere else in the world.

I think that really depends on what you have left in the 92. As much as I hate to say it, you're probably better off getting a 92 XJ and swapping the harness into the 92 MJ, rather than swapping the Renix stuff in.

That's listed as being for the later HO (99+ for XJ, 97+ for TJ). Did Chrysler consider it a superseding part number but the aftermarket parts systems didn't catch it?

The same thing I think about everything he build. Meh.

From?

As I understand it, it's the other way around, a hotter plug runs hotter, but as a result of being a hotter plug rather than the design of the engine it is in. It's not the plugs overall tolerance to heat exposure, they're all fairly well limited to the same maximum temperature, but rather it's the expression of how fast it can shed heat (or cool itself, I guess would make more sense). So if the plug is exposed to more heat than typical, you would normally want a colder plug, as that would result in the plug operating at the correct temperature. Plugs foul if they are not kept hot, so if there is issues with fouling typically a hotter plug is tried (assuming there isn't other reasons for the fouling), as it will stay at a higher temperature than a colder plug, given all other factors are the same. Likewise if a plug is too hot it may experience premature failure or cause detonation, in which case a colder plug is needed for reliable operation. I had always believed that keeping the plugs hotter, as in as hot as was safe for all usage, was considered better from a standpoint of plug life and ideal ignition (for both fuel economy and power), however some reading I've done recently indicates I might be wrong on that. Modern high intensity ignition systems are pretty dummy proof as far as being able to make an effective spark, so I doubt if there would be much real world advantage, maybe there would only be real world disadvantage, and any advantage is assuming that you also don't cause the engine to detonate by doing this. In fact, from some of the reading I'm doing, it sounds like a few of ZJ guys (which ran the same HO plug I'm talking about) swapped to the Renix style plugs to avoid detonation. I'm also not sure how different the Renix vs HO (and when I say HO, I mean 91-92, I don't compare newer stuff normally) combustion chamber is. I thought they were the same, and it was really just the ports that were changed. But I'm ears if anyone actually has a good comparison. This is just my curiosity talking on all of this too.

I'm doing my stock parts reorder for the fall, and noticed that the HO uses a different spark plug than the Renix. The electrode protrudes farther on the HO (projected type) and it's a heat range hotter (9 for the Renix, 12 for a HO, using Champion P/Ns, but that represents about one step for most manufacturers). Any comments on why they went to a hotter plug, or the projected tip (the projected tip may be why it is hotter)? I wouldn't say I've ever had fouling issues with the Renix. Has anyone thrown the HO plugs in there Renix and found any change (positive or negative)? Champion plugs pictured for comparison. HO: Renix:

Is that the type of thing you're supposed to have an excuse for? Because I might have been doing it wrong...

Was the lock ring just a little thick to get it started? Sometimes you have to gently massage the lips of the tank to get them to engage easily. Also putting a little vaseline or oil on the oring helps to make it compress easier and get the ring to go in smoothly.

Am I a bad person for hoping they get shot? I don't mean all of them. Just enough to make a point.

If you want to, I guess. It's probably not the cheap solution unless you're intent on lifting it anyways. I use them (Moab wheels) and I bought a set of adapters from Poison Spider or G2 something. Most of the adapters are fairly comparable because they're all 1.25-1.75" thick and made from 6061-T6. Without knowing the tire size (stock JK tire size varies) I can't say how much lift you will need, but you will need it. To do it over again I'd buy JK axles, and probably will do that at some point, but that's an entirely different discussion.

My 2wd springs were so sagged out that I went SOA with them and it matched the RE 3.5" front lift springs perfectly. (Yes, I planned that)

You're spending a lot of money to do it that way, when you could spend just as much for better results.

Good luck.

By the time you actually get the engine in there, get accessories on it, and look at it, you're going to realize the best option for getting the largest radiator in there possible is going to involve cutting everything out in the front. The entire 2.5L core support setup just hangs out too far back. The most successful swaps as far as being able to take punishment have the radiator mounted up where the 4.0L one is, except it is not the same size/shape, instead they cut out the front crossmember and stuff a narrower but much taller one in. To maximize this even more the end tank has to be a goofy shape to clear the steering box. Luckily the front crossmember can be reworked without any loss of strength/rigidity, and enough so that an air gap can be created so cool air is still pulled in nicely. Unless you want to cut your firewall out to move the engine back. Which is fine, but it snowballs if you want a working HVAC system and other things.

Yeah, it absolutely is. There is no advantage to starting with the 2.5L support.