DirtyComanche

What I said earlier... The wiring in the column or specifically to the ignition switch would be my first suspect. If nothing happens with the key in the 'on' position, you don't have power to anything. Normally the gauges will move to their happy place (voltage being the most obvious), the fuel pump will hum or hammer, and the stereo will come on, etc. Crank is an independent function of 'on' (or at least I recall it being with these, I'd have to check a wiring diagram to be 100% sure) and it can crank till the battery is dead with nothing else coming on (the EFI being the main issue there). The ECU for the Renix is pretty bomb-proof. If it's fried, most likely it is because something was wired wrong and fried it. In which case simply replacing it won't be helping you at all. Besides, you'll get gauges and power to other things even if it is fried - it does nothing but control the engine. Reading back (which I should have done earlier), Eagle states that the ignition switch and the key switch are separate and connected by a linkage. That had slipped my mind earlier. Regardless, that linkage may well not be working. You can bypass the linkage and switch by jumping some pins on one of the plugs - I'd tell you which but my 'E' manual is somewhere else right now...

Okay, here's the deal. My parents have a cabin out in the boonies, and have had it since the late 70s. Anyways, it's pretty rustic; hand pump for the well, propane (100Lb tank) for the fridge, stove and one light, and a biffy out back. Or so it was... Change happens. The area it's in falls under a regional district, which decided that having a good ol' fashioned out-house was an environmental hazard :roll: (or something else retarded) and REQUIRED that they have a proper sewer system installed (there is a small cluster of cabins in the area) :roll: This lead to drilling a well (which was cheap, it's all sand anyways), installing an electric pump, building a shed to house a generator and a pressure tank, running pipe for fresh water from the shed to the cabin, plumbing a toilet, 2 sinks and a shower into the cabin, and running a pipe to the sewer system that was built (or payed for) by what is basically a strata (of the cabins in the area, so everyone got to pay for it :roll: ). Anyways, the system all works well enough. The pump pumps water and the $#!& flows downhill. However, the pressure tank sizing is a little small. It's good for a couple flushes, which isn't too bad. Other than then you have to run outside and pull start the damn generator again and let it fill the pressure tank back up. What we'd be hoping to do is make this system a little less involving, even if it costs a few dollars. Adding some wiring to the cabin wouldn't be a bad idea, so that one could have electric light and maybe some standard outlets. Also, an in-line water heater would be nice if it will fit in the available space, obviously it would be a propane unit but I think they still need electricity for the thermostat setup on them. I'm thinking for this all to work nicely they'd need a small bank of batteries (maybe only 2 deep cycles?), an inverter capable of both the 110V and 220V output (if such an item is economically feasible), and (if such a thing exists) a charge controller that would automatically start the generator when the bank voltage dropped too low and would shut it off when everything was charged. Also, I think a small solar panel might help keep it all trickle charged so the generator would rarely have to come on. So, can anybody provide me with any useful info? Links? Forums on such a topic? Anyone done similar?

You're attacking the problem the wrong way. Instead of fundamentally changing how the steering works, you need to make it fit. The WJ steering box was designed to provide a lot more room for a radiator, as the bulk of it sits on top of the frame rail with only the sector shaft being between the frame rails. A more standard sized radiator can be used with such a setup. I've seen it done with a few V8 swapped XJs and half-considered it for my current build (might still happen if I change engines). While full hydro probably isn't illegal, that doesn't make it a good idea if you're going to see pavement.

Full hydro or hydro assist? Full hydro does not retain the factory steering box. There is no drag link, and there may not be a conventional tie-rod assembly (instead a double ended ram with short tie-rods on each end). Generally it isn't recommended for street use, although it probably isn't actually illegal providing you use the correct orbital valve (one that still allows steering without pressure, a constant displacement valve IIRC). Inspectors may disagree. Hydro assist retains the factory steering box and drag link, along with a relatively normal tie-rod assembly. Perfectly legal, drives great.

The aerodynamic design of the car saved much damage...

Normally. Lots of them are bloody loud. With the door open you should be able to for sure.

The whole steering column is idiot-proofed, basically... The plugs only fit one way. That is, if they changed the column. However... Ever hot-wired a car? Probably not. Generally most older vehicles were all basically the same and not terribly hard to do. The standard method is to forcibly gain access to the back of the ignition switch (key switch) by tearing the column apart or tearing it out of the column. Some guys punch the lock in it, different story (I don't really know how that works anyways). From the back of the switch there is only 3 wires that actually matter (for the thief at least). The ground, the ignition on, and the crank wire. Maybe I'm getting too specific, but this is 'common knowledge' anyways, they take the ignition on wire and ground and twist them together, then touch the crank to that to crank until it fires. Anyways, if lights/doodads aren't coming on when you put the key to the 'ON' position, I would assume that the dealer screwed up repairing the ignition on wire that was torn/cut. Part of the issue is that sometimes the thief isn't terribly successful in that when they tore the wires, they might have broke them off the switch and ALSO, off the plug at the base of the column. You can bypass the ignition switch and wiring in the column, by pulling one of the plugs at the base of the column and jumping the pins on the plug. I'd have too look at either a Jeep or older GM product or my E manual to tell you which...

:rotf: :rotf: :rotf: That would be pretty gross to clean up. :ack: At least it wasn't a larger animal, I'd wonder what a deer would do at that speed (or a moose).

Don't do anything I wouldn't, and don't do half the things I would. Good luck :cheers:

Yeah, I'm wondering how much you go as-well... The biggest I've ever seen anyone win (not on TV) was $10.

why? Because it is under pressure and the result will be just like taking the radiator cap off a conventional radiator when it's hot -- the boiling liquid will spew out in all directions and you'll very likely end up with some serious scalding at least on your hands, and possibly on your face and upper body. But don't take my word for it ... go ahead and try it. Doesn't it have a warning label somewhere? Or maybe the only warning label is the one warning that the oil filter threads are metric...

Was it really selec-trac? Hmm. Guess it could be, the 242 was selec-trac too? Doesn't make a lick of a difference to me. I don't think I'll ever decide I want to run one.

There's aftermarket ones. Hit up rockauto. As to of quality, I don't know. I imagine the later dealer ones are probably off-shore junk anyways.

Correct me if I'm wrong. But is not the NP228 or perhaps the NP229 (whichever it was, I never remember) offered in the 1984-86 XJs. It had fixed yokes, and part/full time operation with low range. The switch to engage part/full time was in front of where the trans shifter went, and the range lever was where it normally is, IIRC. I think they had reliability issues being vacuum shifted. Otherwise they seem to do okay, but nobody runs them so you've got a very limited research base.

Sounds ugly. Best wishes. Hopefully things sort themselves out and you can get over being called "Grandpa".

I've got the 89 on paper... I MIGHT even have it here if you need a specific part. I can't scan it, but my camera takes okay pictures. Let me know if you want me to look. The 88 manual should be mostly the same.

I think they mean GVW. Or what class it falls into (car, van, light truck, etc). But you've got me :nuts:

Liquid glass? What? The polish? I'm sure that could be undone.

I find that just entirely bizarre. I don't think there is any area of Canada (currently) where the religiously affiliated whack-jobs managed to prevent the sale of alcohol or other 'sins'. There's dry towns, but that's for an entirely different reason, normally having to do with (uh-oh, stereotyping) the native population being unable to handle a little booze. There's also towns where you can't buy booze in a glass bottle; something to do with too many people being stabbed with broken bottles. My stereotyping applies there too... Religions though, they have little clout. Other than the Sikhs can wear a kirpan in schools, and a few other little 'problems' that have popped up. Now, about the program in question... Is not the stated underlying purpose to get people to buy newer, more fuel efficient and emissions friendly vehicles? And would not perhaps the other purpose be to stimulate a little economic action as cash NEEDS to flow for the economy to work at all? And might there not be a little vested interest as your government (and unfortunately mine) happens to have bought into a few of the auto manufacturers, which would be at this point a positive thing as if those said companies fail again it will be on your dime? Obviously there is bad with the good, but ought you not accept that it must be and make the best of the good? I'm going to go out on a limb here and say that lenders aren't going to give people loans for vehicles when they have no or terrible credit, but I could be wrong. And also I'd say there's probably going to be a lot more $#!&-boxes removed from existence than perfectly good used vehicles. Again, I could be wrong. Of course, I imagine at least some of you don't believe in global warming. I'd like a reasonable explanation on that, as I have trouble understanding what part of that you don't believe? (If that seems out of left field, well, I read chit-chat on pirate)

You Americans are so divided.

Did you use a YJ/TJ transmission? They're clocked a little different. Anyways, some of the casting on the top is totally useless. There's some funny shaped stuff that's just kinda 'there'. I'd have no issue grinding that off. Don't take off any material that is around the bolt holes though. A better option might just be to take a piece of 2x4 (drift) and a sledge hammer; pound a little clearance into the area that rubs. The wood will prevent there from being sharp dents, especially if you radius it nicely before hand. The metal will stretch quite a bit.

It still comes on in 5th... At least mine did.

What did you take the paint off with? Big scotchbrite wheel?

Looks like it should work. I'll try it when I get back home. Whenever that is. Hopefully I can find a furd NP205.

One of the base staff in Ft St John had always said "We're on farmer's time, the animals don't care what time it is, they need to be fed". They don't observe DST. Of course, only 30kms down the road and you're in Alberta, where WAY more cattle are raised, and they observe DST.