DirtyComanche

Practice, practice, practice.

Maybe. The economics of the whole swap are goofy unless you have 'free parts'. If you had a desire for V8 power, then a V8 would be the swap to do and paying the extra price wouldn't be a big deal... If you wanted something milder, and had a bunch of stuff lying around, a 4.3 wouldn't be a bad idea. If you were in a situation where everything was junk anyways (all your 2.8 related stuff, trans, rad, etc etc) I'd recommend going to a 4.3 over a 3.4, even if the 3.4 would be more 'bolt in'. But, I'm more than willing to rip and tear as needed to make something fit.

TPS issues.

The 4.3 works out better than a V8 for cooling/fitting... Sorta. Headers are still a fight.

One of my few posts on NAXJA in a long time... I need a 3/4" spacer regardless, if I just wanted a clocking ring I could get a 3/8" one. The input on the NP241D is a deep/long 23 spline deal. Unless I swapped input gears on it, or cut the input down (either might be viable, but there is issues with both) it would bottom on the output shaft of the trans before things mated up. I'd decided that I'd simply buy the clocking ring and then I could at least play around with the position of the case to a certain degree. Ultimately, it might be a smarter idea to put some new holes in the transmission, but I'm still undecided. This swap would be a little weird regardless. And probably ridiculously expensive once everything was in place... Cummins B3.3 (I don't like how the 4BT would have to fit), plus a 5-speed since I've half convinced myself that it is a better idea than an automatic for what I intend to do. It'll be expensive since used B3.3s are NOT easily had, so I'd probably be buying a new/rebuilt (crate) one either from Cummins or a rebuilder. Plus I'd need everything to go with it (turbo, injector pump, figure out the power steering and alternator mount, etc), and the SAE adapter for it. I think it could come out swell. Maybe I'm silly/stupid. But there is a member on here with one in his MJ, and I think he used an AX-15. Works for him, but I don't recall if he played with his pump settings...

I like the 4.0L, but it feels underpowered in the ZJ. In the WJ it is terrible. I think the general consensus among the grand owners is you should look for a V8 one unless a 4.0L comes up as a screaming deal. Waggys are great other than the whole 8mpg thing.

I'm betting junk, but you could try 'em and let us know?

Nope, he put 'talented' in bold for a reason, I'd say. As to of which, I wouldn't judge. But she was a hotty, and didn't do any annoying BS that I can recall (I'm the slightly wrong generation to judge, meh), so I will mourn her passing.

I don't have any problem with a $500 fine for parking in a handicapped space when you're not handicapped. I think $1,000 is not unreasonable. Remember, we (most of us, anyway) are the class of citizens known as the "temporarily able-bodied." You never know when an accident might put you behind one of those handicapped decals. At that time, you would curse the healthy, ego-invested clowns who think they have a "right" to park in handicapped spaces. Yes, I agree, I don't like seeing people who don't need the handicapped spots using them. However, like Geonovast says, there is a lot of abuse of that particular part of the system. Hell, here you can get a permit for simply being TOO FAT. Screw 'em, make 'em park in the back 40 and they can walk those excess calories off. Anyways, that's beside my point. I think that a $500 fine is unwarranted if there is nothing stating that that is the consequence (besides had I looked up the local by-laws in the regional district office), or it is not universally so. I had no idea that I would be faced with an $85 fine for letting my meter expire, I probably would have been absolutely anal about throwing more change in it had I known, typically such a fine would be $20 at most with a reduction for early payment (the last ticket I payed was $10 after reduction for being early).

Well, I'm sure they could afford the best meter technology available given the amount of $85 fines they hand out. Or the $500 fine they give if somebody parks in the handicapped spot without a valid decal for it (it's one of the other check boxes on the ticket, I went :ack: ).

So, I got a parking ticket a couple days ago... At the airport in a certain crappy town in Northern Alberta... I let my meter expire, but got back within 5 minutes of it expiring. I was waiting to pick up some people, and I didn't really know when they'd be there. They showed up about 5 minutes before the meter was going to expire. Apparently that's an $85 ticket! And the time on the ticket was exactly when it expired. So the by-law guy waited, or checked the time and came back right then. :fs1: I was pretty mad about it. But a lot of people think I have no right since I was 'wrong' for not having placed another quarter in the meter. :dunno:

Price out the dies on the JD2 and you'll see how it gets expensive. If you only ever intend to bend 1.75" tube, then it isn't too bad. I've got way more in dies than I do in the bender, and that's only with a 1.5" and a 1.75". I need/use a 1" and a 1.5" pipe from time to time. The only upside is that most people in my area have JD2s, so we can trade/borrow dies as needed.

Hmm. That's not a bad idea. They are rated for 300ft-lbs on the dot. And I could get one with a GM pattern, then use a SAE#3 or #4 (whatever) to GM adapter. The list of GM vehicles that I can pull one from isn't too bad either... Also, one wouldn't be nearly as expensive, nor as large, as a NV4500. Maybe all the little pieces will fall together...

What is considered to be the maximum reliable amount of torque than an AX-15 can hold? I'm not talking one run, but actually having the thing last a while. I'm betting it's below 300ft-lbs...

I'd say you've got problems if your 'goal' is to hit the next level for postings... Only 1109 posts till I hit the next one 8)

my aw4, and most that i have talked to are 3.07 Highly doubt. If it is, I want a picture of the tags and proof that it was orig, as it does change things (for me). 4.0 5-speed should be 3.07 4.0 and automatic should be 3.55

It probably has other issues. I drove mine with an open header for a long time. The 'power loss' is over-played. The stock header even has an awesome built in restriction to help keep some back pressure anyways.

To farther elaborate on the tube/pipe thing: There is structural grade 'pipe'. It isn't really pipe, per se. It is basically low grade HREW tubing that is sized as pipe, and therefor can be used as pipe. It is relatively common, and inexpensive in comparison with DOM/CREW and often even HREW. However, the low strength limits its usage (the same goes for HREW). The best application for it is sliders or fenders that will see repetitive impacts and abrasions as you can buy it in a thick wall (sch 80) for a much lower price than comparable tubing. The thin wall stuff works well to build accessories (tire carriers, roof racks) and such on a budget. Chromemoley, chromoly, chromo, or 4130 tubing is expensive at the best of times, and while it is meant to be easily welded it REALLY needs post-welding stress relief and heat treatment to make it worthwhile. All of which is expensive. Also, the HF pipe kinker can be modded to work a LOT better. It is a huge PITA to do. The dies need to be machined out (a die grinder with a carbide burr and a steady hand can do it) so that the pipe fits in it snugly and evenly seats in it. The dies also need to be smoothed out and polished to prevent them from marking the pipe. Then the followers (rollers) need to be machined to fit the pipe correctly or replaced with non-roller followers (aluminum is a good idea) that fit the pipe snugly and will distribute the load well. Beyond that, grease it up a bit before bending, put the seam on the pipe inwards, and make sure the pipe is clean... It can work fine. Personally, I bought a JD2 tube bender and a couple dies (1.5 and 1.75). A few of my friends have the same bender, and thus I can borrow/trade to get most of the other dies (1" and perhaps a 1.5" pipe die would be nice to have). It is expensive, but a good quality product.

Actually, I'm going to feel for a SD33 or SD33T again... Maybe I can find one locally. If I had that one shipped to me, I bet it would be at LEAST $500 in shipping.

I get my blems for $100 cnd. Other than they aren't actually blems, just returns that have no issues. Guess it's not a bad deal, seeing as it is about $50 cheaper than the cheapest lead/acid craptacular battery would be. And I don't have to pay the damn $10 battery eco-fee that way. So, $60 less than a battery that will leak everywhere and cause corrosion all over my engine bay. I can live with that.

I'd take the damn thing whole. Too bad it is a SD-33, not a SD-33T. But you could make a pretty awesome light diesel truck out of one. The CJ-10 cab, a new frame (or stretch that one), and a flat-deck or a willys P/U style box... I have too many 'good' plans and no where near the time, space, money, or technical skills to see them all though. Darn.

I have it on very good authority that the blue and yellow are the same internally. But, the blue comes with the marine style posts, along with the regular posts. And I would never run a spillable battery again... Because they spill. If I wasn't going to buy an optima, I'd buy that other gel cell (whatever it is, odyssey? Cross that bridge when I get there).

They'll be crap. Just like all of the made in china ones, and half of the 'domestically' produced ones. Buy a used warn 8274 instead.

Well, then, you need like 3 wires. The red one off the HEI is ignition power. The other one off the HEI is tach signal (not needed, per se). Then you need a trigger wire for the starter solenoid, that would be crank. And you need power to the starter solenoid/starter, straight from the battery. So, turn the red one on for ignition on. Then put a button on your starter trigger, and push it to crank the engine over/start. That's assuming a mechanical fuel pump, and no electric choke or anything stupid. Yes, it is in fact that simple. If you want to wire it into the factory column to use your key, etc, it's not hard either. You could figure it out with a multimeter, but if I'm really nice I'll look in my e-manual or see if I have the wiring diagram for mine somewhere.

That article is hmmm, 5 years old maybe?